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New Happy Owner from Brazil, São Paulo


Adiel Machado

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Hello my dears!
I am a new and happy owner of a Dodge Journey SXT 2.7 AT6 2010.

 

It has 50,300 miles on it, the previous owners don't seem to have taken very good care of the mechanics but the interior is doing great!
 

I've had it for less than 15 days and I've already spent R$5,000.00 on front suspension maintenance.

I still need to remove the leakage from the valve covers, replace spark plugs, filters and fluids. But I'm focusing on the critical end, the rear still needs a lot of attention and new tires!

Here everything is very expensive, what I spent is equivalent to almost 5 salaries. Still not counting the difficulty of finding reliable parts.

I have many doubts and soon I intend to share the main ones, I hope to be able to acquire and share a lot of information with you!!!

I take this opportunity to wish you all a happy and prosperous new year!!!



a62ba1c5-fcf9-4db6-8784-f9e6683db3e0.thumb.jpg.62cf9db4fb4f72ead00d205f0a45612a.jpg
38fd4a3a-9c36-4625-aaa0-4fe45ded256f.thumb.jpg.95ed25b00d1a7325ca366006902d6c62.jpg

Edited by Adiel Machado
Add year/model and correct text language.
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Really @2late4u!
I was pretty scared but little by little I'm putting everything in order... Because of the end of year festivities it's a little difficult to get specialized service, but I'm already scheduling to finalize the suspension.

Forgive me for my "bad English".
 

I took it into a shop for an initial reading and first impressions via OBD and the mileage is correct according to the injection plant. If it was tampered with, the central would be different, correct?

Thanks for the votes!

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I have a lot of questions, I'll list them here but I should open a topic for each question then. Please let me know your opinion on this, should I open a topic for each topic?
Questions are related to the following topics:


-Usability of sound and uconnect;
I would like to know what we can extract from this sound. Is it possible to enable some kind of Apple CarPlay and/or Android Auto? Apparently mine doesn't have bluetooth and for the moment I'm using one via Aux P2. Is there any audio input and/or video on the back of this stereo? The video input I considered using an adapter for Apple Carplay. The audio input I thought of installing a pioneer sound somewhere hidden that integrates well with IOS and Android, using it together with a steering wheel interface and it also allows the connection of 2 bluetooth. It would be a way of "under the covers" to maintain the originality of the multimedia that I prefer... Also because a multimedia for this car I would have to import and it would be extremely expensive.

 

 

-Failed to activate "Cruize Control";
After pushing it on the lever button, nothing happens and then the "injection" light comes on. Then I get the P0581 code. If I clear the code the light doesn't come on until I turn the Cruize Control back on.

63b369511f19b_P0581-CircuitodoInterruptordeControledeVelocidade1-Alto.JPEG.3cbfe3405b0157e50868830f48bda6d9.JPEG

 

 

-I tried to use the spare key and nothing happened;
I received two related codes: B1A25 and B1A6C. None of the remote functions work, probably the battery is dead.
63b3697c9cd47_B1A6C-Faltadecorrespondnciadachavesecreta---B1A25Chaveinvlida.thumb.JPEG.e6fafc71eceaf045044b97abb5fcf3cf.JPEG

 

 

-I have a TPMS alert on the panel, I don't have the Premium System, the code refers to internal sensor 4 (C1504);
Is there any way I can enable the Premium System? Is there any App via OBD2 that allows me to see the calibration value of each tire? Any tips to solve this problem? Could it be the antenna itself? It is my first vehicle with TPMS, the Are internal batteries replaceable?
63b3699316e1f_C1504-Sensor4internodepressodospneus.thumb.JPEG.8d4d3ea2b044722191628da078ad2a2e.JPEG
 

 

-The operation of the parking brake is irregular;
The brake cannot keep the vehicle stationary on slopes. Recently the pedal also started to brake at the top. I noticed that the ends of the cables connected to the calipers had deformed covers, apparently melted. I assumed that this was due to the high temperature of use of the brake calipers. My temporary workaround was: disengage the two ends from the ends, pull one side all the way, remove all the protective cover and lubricate with white grease. Then, pull the other side of the end and repeat the same steps. It should last a few more months while I focus on more critical items. The pedal stopped locking and became lighter, but the drive is still not able to stop the vehicle on slopes. I noticed that when I press the pedal all the way, the stroke of the drive in the caliper reaches the limit. Can I have a defect in the calipers?

 

- Bumps in the 6-speed automatic transmission;
I noticed that sometimes I get bumps when switching between "R" and "D" mainly. Sometimes when I'm "accelerating hard to overtake sometimes I also notice the same bump. I've noticed that on the first start in the morning this is less common and if it intensifies as I use it. Does anyone have any ideas? Is this system a torque converter or automated? I read in the manual that it has a double clutch and if it really is that I'm impressed... I say in passing, in love! kkkkk In this case I may have some problem with the robot or uneven wear of the flywheel and/or clutch? Sem códigos de falha

 

-Best App for OBD2, preferably for IOS, otherwise for Android;
What's the best APP to get the most out of my OBD2? I'm having trouble finding an app that has exactly my car model. I'm afraid of buying a paid app and not having an "acceptable" return. I would even like to be able to see real-time TPMS data if possible.

(Other codes i have):
-B2394

63b369f29a47e_B2394-Flashparaaprovar_Circuitodechavedabuzinaticaemperrada.JPEG.e47bde5397413c232ed797193cc8f78a.JPEG
I really feel that the horn is a little heavy to operate, i don't know if it has anything to do with it.



-B0A5

63b36abc935e1_B0A5-Circuitodocontrole1deportacombinadaesquerda.JPEG.5a471e40e2f56ae5d08371d5b463be8d.JPEG
I believe that this must have accused that the driver's door was open at the time of reading kkkk...

Thank you guys!!!

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8 hours ago, Adiel Machado said:

Hello my dears!
I am a new and happy owner of a Dodge Journey SXT 2.7 AT6 2010.

 

It has 50,300 miles on it, the previous owners don't seem to have taken very good care of the mechanics but the interior is doing great!
 

I've had it for less than 15 days and I've already spent R$5,000.00 on front suspension maintenance.

I still need to remove the leakage from the valve covers, replace spark plugs, filters and fluids. But I'm focusing on the critical end, the rear still needs a lot of attention and new tires!

Here everything is very expensive, what I spent is equivalent to almost 5 salaries. Still not counting the difficulty of finding reliable parts.

I have many doubts and soon I intend to share the main ones, I hope to be able to acquire and share a lot of information with you!!!

I take this opportunity to wish you all a happy and prosperous new year!!!



a62ba1c5-fcf9-4db6-8784-f9e6683db3e0.thumb.jpg.62cf9db4fb4f72ead00d205f0a45612a.jpg
38fd4a3a-9c36-4625-aaa0-4fe45ded256f.thumb.jpg.95ed25b00d1a7325ca366006902d6c62.jpg

had to google the amount,,,R$5,000.00 =  $ 294.U.S.

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2 hours ago, Adiel Machado said:

I have a lot of questions, I'll list them here but I should open a topic for each question then. Please let me know your opinion on this, should I open a topic for each topic?
Questions are related to the following topics:


-Usability of sound and uconnect;
I would like to know what we can extract from this sound. Is it possible to enable some kind of Apple CarPlay and/or Android Auto? Apparently mine doesn't have bluetooth and for the moment I'm using one via Aux P2. Is there any audio input and/or video on the back of this stereo? The video input I considered using an adapter for Apple Carplay. The audio input I thought of installing a pioneer sound somewhere hidden that integrates well with IOS and Android, using it together with a steering wheel interface and it also allows the connection of 2 bluetooth. It would be a way of "under the covers" to maintain the originality of the multimedia that I prefer... Also because a multimedia for this car I would have to import and it would be extremely expensive.

 

 

-Failed to activate "Cruize Control";
After pushing it on the lever button, nothing happens and then the "injection" light comes on. Then I get the P0581 code. If I clear the code the light doesn't come on until I turn the Cruize Control back on.

63b369511f19b_P0581-CircuitodoInterruptordeControledeVelocidade1-Alto.JPEG.3cbfe3405b0157e50868830f48bda6d9.JPEG

 

 

-I tried to use the spare key and nothing happened;
I received two related codes: B1A25 and B1A6C. None of the remote functions work, probably the battery is dead.
63b3697c9cd47_B1A6C-Faltadecorrespondnciadachavesecreta---B1A25Chaveinvlida.thumb.JPEG.e6fafc71eceaf045044b97abb5fcf3cf.JPEG

 

 

-I have a TPMS alert on the panel, I don't have the Premium System, the code refers to internal sensor 4 (C1504);
Is there any way I can enable the Premium System? Is there any App via OBD2 that allows me to see the calibration value of each tire? Any tips to solve this problem? Could it be the antenna itself? It is my first vehicle with TPMS, the Are internal batteries replaceable?
63b3699316e1f_C1504-Sensor4internodepressodospneus.thumb.JPEG.8d4d3ea2b044722191628da078ad2a2e.JPEG
 

 

-The operation of the parking brake is irregular;
The brake cannot keep the vehicle stationary on slopes. Recently the pedal also started to brake at the top. I noticed that the ends of the cables connected to the calipers had deformed covers, apparently melted. I assumed that this was due to the high temperature of use of the brake calipers. My temporary workaround was: disengage the two ends from the ends, pull one side all the way, remove all the protective cover and lubricate with white grease. Then, pull the other side of the end and repeat the same steps. It should last a few more months while I focus on more critical items. The pedal stopped locking and became lighter, but the drive is still not able to stop the vehicle on slopes. I noticed that when I press the pedal all the way, the stroke of the drive in the caliper reaches the limit. Can I have a defect in the calipers?

 

- Bumps in the 6-speed automatic transmission;
I noticed that sometimes I get bumps when switching between "R" and "D" mainly. Sometimes when I'm "accelerating hard to overtake sometimes I also notice the same bump. I've noticed that on the first start in the morning this is less common and if it intensifies as I use it. Does anyone have any ideas? Is this system a torque converter or automated? I read in the manual that it has a double clutch and if it really is that I'm impressed... I say in passing, in love! kkkkk In this case I may have some problem with the robot or uneven wear of the flywheel and/or clutch? Sem códigos de falha

 

-Best App for OBD2, preferably for IOS, otherwise for Android;
What's the best APP to get the most out of my OBD2? I'm having trouble finding an app that has exactly my car model. I'm afraid of buying a paid app and not having an "acceptable" return. I would even like to be able to see real-time TPMS data if possible.

(Other codes i have):
-B2394

63b369f29a47e_B2394-Flashparaaprovar_Circuitodechavedabuzinaticaemperrada.JPEG.e47bde5397413c232ed797193cc8f78a.JPEG
I really feel that the horn is a little heavy to operate, i don't know if it has anything to do with it.



-B0A5

63b36abc935e1_B0A5-Circuitodocontrole1deportacombinadaesquerda.JPEG.5a471e40e2f56ae5d08371d5b463be8d.JPEG
I believe that this must have accused that the driver's door was open at the time of reading kkkk...

Thank you guys!!!

TPMS is for your tire pressure monitoring system it tells you a tire is low on air.. and no the battery is non replaceable, dont know if on the 2010 it tells you8 which tire in the info system thur the steering wheel.....the bumps you feel between r and f are actually kind of normal for this vehicle mine use to do it every so often many yrs ago but no more...and yes the horns seem to have a delay when you push on them 

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11 hours ago, 2late4u said:

teve que pesquisar no Google o valor,,,R$ 5.000,00 = R$ 294.U.U.

When converted it seems little, but the dollar here costs almost R$6.00 reais for $1.00 dollar.
But, to get an idea, I would have spent 1/3 of the value for a national car.


I said things here are expensive lol


 

11 hours ago, 2late4u said:

TPMS é para o seu sistema de monitoramento de pressão dos pneus, ele informa que um pneu está com pouco ar. e não a bateria não é substituível, não sei se no 2010 ele diz8 qual pneu no sistema de informações qui o volante ..... os solavancos que você sente entre r e f são realmente meio normais para este veículo que a mina usa para fazê-lo de vez em quando, muitos anos atrás, mas não mais... e sim, os chifres parecem ter um atraso quando você os empurra

The 2010 doesn't show which tire, I had to identify the sensor via scanner. But I would like to have this data on the panel, on the sound or via OBD2.

The transmission really had already told me that it was normal... I just think it hits very hard at the time of the bump, but the engine and transmission mounts seem normal.
 

Thanks @2late4u

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5 hours ago, Adiel Machado said:

When converted it seems little, but the dollar here costs almost R$6.00 reais for $1.00 dollar.
But, to get an idea, I would have spent 1/3 of the value for a national car.


I said things here are expensive lol


 

The 2010 doesn't show which tire, I had to identify the sensor via scanner. But I would like to have this data on the panel, on the sound or via OBD2.

The transmission really had already told me that it was normal... I just think it hits very hard at the time of the bump, but the engine and transmission mounts seem normal.
 

Thanks @2late4u

the trans has a learning mode as well so it may take a while for it to get use to you, i found before shifting the gear selector its best to wait a few seconds before shifting but it does happen to a lot of journey owners so nothing to worry about

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 03/01/2023 at 3:41 PM, 2late4u said:

the trans has a learning mode as well so it may take a while for it to get use to you, i found before shifting the gear selector its best to wait a few seconds before shifting but it does happen to a lot of journey owners so nothing to worry about

@2late4u

I'm afraid that wasn't normal behavior. Now that the problem has evolved, I realized that some things weren't so common either.... I rarely lost performance either.
 

But I just got back from my honeymoon, and where I went (Mountains of São José dos Campos approximately), I used the "engine brake" a lot. the first time I needed to go down hills, I noticed that the transmission came out of "manual selector" mode and stuck in "D" after traveling approximately 5 km. So far so good... I arrived at my destination, turned off the car and the next day everything was back to normal.
 

On the penultimate day, I went hiking and had to go around the mountain. I got on it and when I returned, returning along the same path as before, the gearshift stuck again in "D" even though it was in the manual selector.


When I got to the bottom, I noticed that the car lost performance drastically, but this time the injection light came on, accusing the failure (P0765 - UD Solenoid Circuit), of the ECU module [Engine Control (Module Gasoline)]. Searching a little more, the description is (Shift Solenoid "D").
 

In this condition, the exchange was giving strong bumps when migrated between "R" and "D", and does not accept the position of the manual selector.
 

As I was 170KM from home (Approximately 105 Miles), the tow truck would cost me a lot, mainly because I was in a mountainous region and Journey was extremely heavy.
 

What I did was clear the error code via OBD and restart the car. In this way, the exchange returned to normal. During the trip this happened about 3 times and in this condition I confirmed that by clearing the code via OBD only with the key in the ignition position without turning the car on, and after turning it on again, the car returned to normal.
 

When I manage to normalize the exchange, if I put it in the manual selection position, the exchange locks again. Sometimes it turns on the injection light and sometimes it takes time to start. I notice when I lose powers and performance, in the exchange.
 

With OBD, I was able to observe and monitor that the transmission always locks in 3rd Gear. Now I always walk with the OBD connected and I always show it to monitor the gear. When it locks in 3rd, I turn the car off, put it in the ignition position, clear the fault code, turn the ignition off and start the car again.
 

When I took the "trick" on the road, there was still approximately 130KM (80 Miles) to go. I noticed that if I didn't demand too much between 2nd, 3rd and 4th, and developed the car up to 5th and 6th Gear, it worked well and I didn't have any more problems. I was able to get home, thank God!!!
 

But after that I walked around here in the neighborhood and he started having problems again, I redid the trick I learned and everything went back to normal.
 

Everything I researched says I need to replace the entire solenoid box. But does it really make sense if, when I reset the fault code and restart the car, it's perfect? Even the bumps are over until the failure returns.
 

I have also been researching that this problem only happens due to the lack of changing the transmission oil, but I noticed that mine is very new, very pink.
 

Another thing I researched is that everyone who ends up having a problem with the shifter has the exact same complaints just before the shifter breaks. The Cambio loses performance sometimes and sometimes has bumps. And the workshop diagnosis after the gearbox breaks, is that the gearbox locks in 3rd gear and the problem is the solenoids. After the repair, all the observations and reports I found after the repair say that the transmission continues to jerk periodically.
 

That is, do we really have a problem with the solenoid body or is there another issue behind it? Can anyone give me a light?
 

I found a remap company that promises to get rid of bumps with a shifter remap. Automatically improves transmission performance and even improves consumption.
 

All this leads me to believe that I may have more of a map problem or a "logical" problem than a "physical" problem.

Thank you @2late4u, Thank you community!

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