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09 Journey 3.5 P0205 + P0305


miyokorei

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2009 Dodge Journey with the V6 3.5.

Problem started after a wheel alignment when leaving the shop.

 

Cold start in the morning and runs perfect. Once its warm and you turn it off. Restart and pops both codes and will flash the check engine light at anything above a idle with noticeable misfire. I took it to work the other morning and it drove fine 40 miles. After an 8 hour shift, it drove fine the entire way home. Got home turned it off. Turned it back on and the both codes pop with flashing check engine light. Drove it 2 days in a row. Torque Pro shows the cats stay around 1400 degrees when running fine and hit close to 1800 degrees when misfiring from the excessive fuel not being burned I am guessing.

 

So far with troubleshooting I have tried:

1. Replaced spark plugs (it was due anyways)

2. Double check battery was fully charged.

2. Moving coils from 1 to 5 and 3 to 5.

3. Moving the injectors in the same order.

4. Tested resistance of the injectors.

5. Placed my spare PCM (already flashed) confirm if PCM issue.

6. Cursory check of wiring loom from #5 to the PCM to check for obvious wiring damage.

7. Still only getting the injector circuit and misfire for Cylinder 5. Sometimes just the misfire by itself if I don't increase the RPM above an idle.

 

I am going to do a compression test this Friday to check that and a leakdown test to see if I can hear anything in the intake or exhaust to check the valves. I would think a burnt valve would cause the problem all the time though. I don't get why it only happens on a WARM restart. I would think if its a heat soaked component going out, that as soon as it reached the problem temp, it would begin to act up. Not let me continue to drive to work or back to the house after sitting 8 hours. Probably going to end up cutting the wiring loom open to check the individual wires to the PCM. Im pretty stumped on this one. any help at all would be appreciated. It's my wife's vehicle and she is sick of driving my Firebird since it sits too close to the ground for her to get in and out comfortably.

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Quick update

 

I did the compression test. Dry and Wet. The numbers didn't change except on the first cylinder. I ran the test twice for dry and twice for wet on each cylinder.

 

#1: Dry-140 Wet 210

#3: 100

#5: 110

 

#2: 92

#4: 120

#6: 40. Yes a 40 wet and dry.

 

Put it all back together again a little while ago and took it for a test drive. Drove absolutely perfect two towns away and back, about 30 miles round trip continuous. No codes. Pulled in the driveway and turned it off. Turned it back on and the check engine light flashes and stops. Pull out of the driveway and go about 1000 feet down the road and it begins misfiring and throws the injector circuit and misfire codes for #5. 

 

I don't get it. It seems like if one was going to throw a code, it would be #6 at 40PSI. 

 

If timing had jumped a tooth, wouldn't it be a problem all the time and not just on subsequent warm restarts?

 

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I am no (professional) mechanic so I am just throwing out ideas.

 

1st, I agree that if the timing was off it would show all the time.

As it always runs fine once started until it is shut off I am thinking not a mechanical issue as opposed to an electronic issue. A scrambled instruction such as a computer malfunction or a sensor. If it was a wiring problem it might be intermittent but not so controlled by circumstance.

I'm thinking an incorrect signal is being sent on startup from a misread or malfunctioning sensor. Maybe even a poor or corroded connection that interferes with a start up instruction only.

Again, just my two cents and pennies aren't even copper anymore.

Edited by Summer Solstice
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Thanks for the reply. My wife isn't going to leave me alone about this since she's still paying on it until February. Ill get some electronic contact cleaner and start checking the pins on all the connectors I can find for discoloration or something else obvious. Might as well clean all the grounds and other things also while i'm at it. Ill have to get a new multimeter and start tracking the values on the different sensors to see if one is heat soaking or something and causing the problems. Thank you for the ideas. It is definitely something to go on. 

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