Mauricio Pelissari

Lets say that i,m planning to buy a new DJ a 2015 or maybe 2016 model... awd... 3.6l... currently I own a DJ 2.7l sxt 4x2 2010/2010 without awd... 😊 thats is why im looking for an upgrade on version... and car for a near future... as i saw the new RT awd has a nice system for my kid on the back... thats is what i ment... my english is getting rust as all expats on the rig are leaving... 😢

What do you mean? By the way... lights went off... read on the net that that would be nice to turn fully to the rigth and then fully to the left then back to center in order for the stability control to find it self... dont know if that did the trick or the breaks pads was just sitting... now breaks are good again...

Nice web site... explains a lot... thanks... well yesterday i got of the dealer ... they took all 6 fuel inejctor to a ultrasonic machine a another fuel injector cleaning machine... then when they connected at the first run... from 6, 2 was working ok... then they did another 4 cleaning cicles and all 6 now working within the range of there work.... from the 2 that was always open now all 6 are close when then engine is off... they showed to me by turning the key to on position and not turning the engine on... nice did not have to buy new... but they said for me to plan to buy new and since they are direct responsible for the liter per km... now my DJ is running more economic after this maintenance... and discovered that the last owner adapted the spark plug... so it was not original.. to the car... but i only found out since i did this maintenance 10.000 km before reaching 100.000 km that i was planing... for big maintenance... but now happier...car is running ok better than it was and Way more economic then before... the only thing hapened after they close... is the ABS, BAS & ESP light came on... i have replaced the rear rotor... and all break pads... i didnt do the front rotor since they were replaced when i got from last owner... and monday is a holiday... dont know what to do im trying to see what happen but no clue... on this maintenance did spark plugs replacement... fuel injector cleaning... replacement of almost all front and rear suspention... rear rotors... and all break pads... so now funny is some times the light goes of...and as soon as i use the breaks the paddle does grurrrrr they lights comes on and the breaks works ok... strange... any adivice on that one... since i will only be able to take it back on tuesday... since on monday is a holiday here... 😊 lots of work but soon... 2015 model awd or maybe 2016... who knows..

I would LOVE to have this car with a diesel engine here... but also not available for us...we got 2.7 and 3.6l with dodge... and 2.0 and 2.4 with fiat as a freemont...

Well i agree... but since they found 2 fuel injector bad... and its out of warranty... i will have to cover the cost ... specially that i have being following there maintenance... and also saw their test that proves they are correct... i really just need to get familiar with my car so i dont get ripped off... if you know what i mean... ☺

Just for my knowledge... since they dont really share inside confidation information... does they fuel injector has any order or just can be any in any position?

Well... my is importaed from mexico... Gasoline type with 2.7L Dohc 24 valve...

Hope they do... just trying to help them... he found 2 fuel injector puting fuel out without the engine on... here by law we can watch... :-)

Well, i'm currently in a dealer just now, after replacing the spark plugs type re14pmc5 in my DJ 2010 2.7l sxt with 91.000 km, had my fuel injector removed to be cleanned and so on... my engine wont start.... does the fuel injector has any correct order to be placed back? Or it doenst matter? Found small little numbers on the side on each one had a number 1,1,3,6,6,6.... so placed 1 in 1, 3 on 3, another 1 in 5, and ecah 6 in 2,4,6... does this matter... found that last owner had not used original spark plugs in it.... please some adivice?

Great video... I just wish I could purchase parts cheaper (or should I say the same price that I would pay if I was still living in Houston...).... Parts are so expense here to buy! I would love to carry out an upgrade like that....

May sound strange, but is there any way to configure when I lock my DJ 2010/2010 if a window is open to close it up and then lock the car? or does it require some modifications?

Thanks!

Well today I have successfully replace my horn switch and now my horn work OK!!! See topic below for my replacement steps... http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/8006-contribution-horn-switch-replacement-with-photos/

Well, first a little story why all this, well, i had to remove Fuses 22 and 23 from the fuse box since my horn was sounding continues with me pressing it, and from the manufacture service manual stated as below: HORN SYSTEM TEST TABLE WARNING: Disable the airbag system before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, seat belt tensioner, side airbag or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery (ground) cable. Wait two minutes for the airbag system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the airbag system. Failure to follow these instructions may result in accidental airbag deployment and possible serious or fatal injury. CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION HORN SOUNDS 1. Horn control circuit shorted to ground. 1. Find the short and repair as necessary. CONTINUOUSLY. NOTE: IMMEDIATELY 2. Pinched horn switch wire under driver airbag module. 2. Replace the horn switch. UNPLUG HORN 3. Inoperative horn switch 3. Replace the horn switch. HORN SOUND INTERMITTENTLY AS THE STEERING WHEEL IS TURNED. 1. Pinched horn switch wire under driver airbag. 1. Replace the horn switch. 2. Inoperative horn switch. 2. Replace the horn switch. So most of the troubleshooting was to replace the horn switch, as I was hopping that my was not a short issue other wise i would have to look very deep, and these are a nightmare to find. So after continuing with the service manual: SWITCH, HORN REMOVAL REMOVAL WARNING: On vehicles equipped with an airbag, refer to Restraint SERVICE INFORMATION article for warnings and cautions before servicing the horn switch. Followed the below steps as it was mentioned on the manual it self: 1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. (On the Air bag Manual says to wait a full 2 minutes for total power drain, but just to be 100% sure i waited 30 minutes and even disconnected the battery it self both negative and positive poles, just in case) 2. Remove the driver airbag. Refer to Restraints/AIR BAG, Driver - Removal . (On this part on the service manual that i got well no AIR BAG and Restraints Parts, so i went to the web and found a very good Grant wheel replacement that mentions the air bag and some others web site showing what to do, but nothing in bigger details, so in the end i found that there are two 10 mm bolts on the wheel holding the air bag it self, so i removed both of them, and with the finger pushed the air bag unit from inside out, instead of pulling from the front of the wheel, i found more easily. after this removal i could see the 2 wires connected to the air bag unit and removed them easily again, Please note that when handling the air bag always point away from your body at all times just to be 100% sure, after removal and just placed the air bag in the bench facing it up as i found instruction on the web. Once i got the air bag out of the way it was easy enough to work on the horn switch so i continued with the following on the service manual.) 4. Remove the three mounting fasteners. (Well for this part you will need a Torx set, after removing the 3 bolts carefully remove the horn switch from the plug it self.) Once i had the horn switch out, just measured the two contacts between them with a multi-meter in ohms scale to to be sure that it was not shorted between them and to ground. (luck on my side, it was good) When i got to this point i had installed the new horn switch, and just before i connected back into the plug i used again the multi-meter in ohms scale and on the 2 contacts that you guys will be able to see on the photos in attachment and tested all four horn switch points, and all worked ok, after connected back to the plug it self, and started the reverse process to install the air bag unit on the wheel it self, placed the air bag connectors as per the color code on the back, placed on the wheel, then placed the two 10 mm bolts back and that part was done, pushed the horn on all four points to see the proper movement and then connected the battery back, place back the fuses on the fuse box on fuse 22 and 23 as per drawing and tested the horn & horn was working once again... :-)

Very strange.... the only common point in that is the coolant tank cracked (Probably the 1st thing that went and caused the rest to go), that seems to be very very common on high millage, well i could say that you wouldn't see much of a temperature raise until the fan crapped out since the electronics would be trying hard to maintain the temperature down, you would note if the level of coolant drop... that is what happen to my, 1 day just was hearing the fan cut in and out on high speed, stopped to check, no coolant, look for leaks found the tank it self cracked, got a new one, flushed the system and added new coolant, no problems since... probably will happen again after a certain mileage again, after all as discussed in other topics is made of plastics, heating up and down quite often.... hope you get your fixed for good...

From the service manual it self: "The water pump draws coolant from the radiator and delivers it to the engine block. The coolant travels through the engine block into the cylinder head. Coolant exits the engine at the thermostat. If the coolant temperature is less than 87°C (189°F) the thermostat directs all of the coolant back to the water pump. If the coolant temperature is between 87°C (189°F) and 102°C (216°F) the thermostat is in the mix mode and directs the coolant to the radiator and the water pump. If the coolant is greater than 102°C (216°F), the thermostat directs all of the coolant to the radiator." Also a good indication of high temps is excessive use of the fan on high speed frequently, starting and stopping... RADIATOR FAN OPERATION - 3.5L ENGINE Radiator Fan Control A/C Pressure A/C Off Low High Fan On: 102°C (215°F) 104°C (219°F) Fan Off: 98°C (208°F) 100°C (212°F) A/C On Low High Low High Fan On: 102°C (215°F) 104°C (219°F) 1,526 Kpa (221 psi) 1,932 Kpa (280 psi) Fan Off: 98°C (208°F) 100°C (212°F) 1,246 Kpa (180 psi) 1,666 Kpa (224 psi) if your indication is at the middle is normally and also you could say that close to 100 degrees Celsius is normal. to monitor this value very close you would need to plug one of those OBD2 to monitor. But as DodgeCares above says if you have any doubts take it to a dealer especially if it is under warranty.

Well this is normally for me, no ticking on my though... but on the temperature you can feel the heat come from under nit and specially from the side of the coolant recipient... but always at the correct point.... this type of car operates a significant high temp... compare to others...

Well, After almost a year, and LOTs of troubles, i finally, found the problem, went to one of these garage exhaust guys and had a big cry and after 10 minutes talk, and 2 minutes of work, he lift the car, found 2 major leaks, repaired, something that other 3 exhaust garage place couldn't find, and fixed the issue, well now running the car without any MIL light .... so far for 3 days.... normally it would re-appear after being clear almost instantly.... So Happy... just a feed back for all the help... the guy did a simple check, with a rag on his hand, covered the exhaust and then we were able to find it very easily..... another one clear.... now planning upgrades.... :-)

Well, just bought a new horn switch, and will replace it on moday, i will take some pictures and maybe do a how to replace post, since with almost everything i read should be ok to replace....

There seems to be very common, people just come to get some help and then gone, i once did it my self, but in the end i started enjoy coming here to see if i could help in any away... for funny fact i was parked yesterday waiting for my wife to come back to the car, suddenly the car horn went by it self... now had to pull both fuses out so wouldn't bother any one especial neighbors.... now will have to go to a dealer to check it out... normally these horn switch that gives the problems... hope to get it fixed fast, after all a ticket for not having an working horn is not nice...i would try something my self by this switch is located at the steering wheel and with the air bags close to it... no very nice... i couldn't find any where that shows how to dismount it.

Journey_SeXT, one of the reasons could be due to the fuel, even though we use Gasoline some of our gas stations could sell mixture of gasoline with Ethanol, but major gas station, are still ok and only from them I fuel up the tank, other friends that also own DJ has no issue at all.... but still seeking for a solution, so far I went to 3 dealers / Dodge Re-sellers / Experts,well i went to them and presented the PDF files that Milous posted on this topic, well their response was sorry we do not have the proper equipment to perform these test, and also the manufacture just tell us to replace everything that will solve it and normally we do this when it is still on the warranty, "BUT" to replace all that is almost an equivalent of 3 thousand us dollars here in Brazil out of warranty, i'm an Electronic Tech, some of the test I can do my self but when it comes to the mechanical side and some other specific tools required i just get lost in the test, my family just LOVE this car, the right space for us, i will find a fix some how, and maybe soon buy the new model... well i bought an OBD check, made some graphics presented to the dealers, they said that the O2 sensors are ok and maybe a leak, or a catalysis is the problem, but parts are expensive and still no guaranties that will fix it, so for just trying it would cast too much, so next month i will be stopping the car for a full suspension service, and then i will ask the guys to remove both front and rear cat and look for leaks, on this maintenance i will replace spark plugs, and others that could affect also on this code... but i will not give up... just love this car.... we have some insurance places that has unusable DJ, and they normally sells parts, i have seen some of them selling the complete exhaust system from 5 times less what i would pay to replace with new, i might give a try... since my has too be something common since both codes appears at the same time, not one and then the other... both... when found i will have fixed both...

My DJ 2010/2010 does the same, especially when I have to park in a small ramp (some road with slight inclination), it sometimes feels like the cars gives kick to shift from park to reverse then drive even though I still have the breaks applied, is that normal? Or might indicate a gear issue? But when i park the car at home I normally park the car and then leave in neutral position release the breaks the car moves a little then hold the break then shift to park, then when i have to use the car again I can start and shift with no issues and it goes smoothly...

Hello, here in Brazil seems to be very common to replace this GEAR, Power Steering Mopar Code 05151348AC have any of you guys replaced this part? in the US around 900 dollars... here in Brazil around 5000 usd, we normally have to do a lot of suspension maintenance, my DJ 2010/2010 with 80.0000 km is presenting a blup blup sound, very common to a strut mount or joint problem or similar, but every mechanic that i take that has experience on this car first thing they say is this car present a lot of problems on the power steering gear and normally it has to be replaced, it only started on the left wheel when i was passing thru a train track, then was more often and now starting to hear on the right wheel specially when i was traveling in unpaved road....

just as jkeaton... here in Brazil it is a common part, i have replaced my with 74.000 KM, hot climate...They should have added to inspect this every 50k or replaced every 80k... would cause less warm on to the DJ.... depends on the style of the maintenance you carried out this can be easily over seen.... and maybe found too late...

I have seen other posts in the forum about oil changes and type... there are some outstanding questions, which also i would like to know? Here in Brazil... it is not quite easy to find Mobil 1 5w20 oil or similar, normally you would have to buy from another state within the country and wait quite while in delivery, the previous owner was using 5w30, we have quite a hot weather, so the question is? manual states to use 5w20 but also states that is also for cold climate and cold starts, since i'm in a hot climate how would this affect? is it ok to use 5w30 or in the next oil change i have to go back to 5w20? 1 liter of Mobil 1 5w20 cost around 28 dollars...here without delivery...