Totemus

+ 8 hp on premium, +5hp on regular.
$359/5hp=$70 per every additional hp.
I think I are better off if you invest those in better tires and regular maintenance

Is it really worth it, for 8hp, and not being configurable at all? This is nothing compared to the DS tuners, or even their MaxEnergy tuners (which I used on my Avenger R/T, because of DS not releasing one until just a couple weeks ago for the Avengers).

Just an FYI, but airbags can deploy even without power to them. They appear to hold charge in probably some kind of large capacitor, so to still be able to deploy in the event power is disconnected on a collision. Not sure how long you would need to wait for them to discharge, but I'm thinking 3-5 minutes wouldn't be nearly enough time...
That piece you are looking to take off has 2 bolts at the bottom of it, and there are 6 or 7 metal clips. Pull STRAIGHT OUT from the dash area to release it, don't pull down on an angle.

[...]If they are, you press the center pin IN to the clip past the head and it will 'click' into place, releasing tension on the ears that hold the clip in place - you can then simply remove the clip by carefully twisting the head while pulling it back. [...]
Nope, it's the opposite. You need to pry the middle part OUT with a flat-head screwdriver. You may find it easier but kind of alternating from one side of the pin to the other. It sucks, but that's the only way to get them out. Be careful when doing the ones on the edge of the bumper cover, as I made a small mark in mine when pulling the pins yesterday (due to carelessness in watching where the screwdriver was when moving it). Ugh...brand new vehicle.
In reference to the other part about the cable, nothing to be careful about...pulling the top cable disconnects it, period. I've taken dozens of pictures of my "gutting" while modding this weekend, and will post pics on it hopefully by Wednesday (if I can get it completed by then). The negative is a single cable, from the strut tower directly to the battery. Disconnecting this at the strut tower disconnects the battery. The positive is a single cable that goes to the PDU in the engine bay. There is also a temperature sensor on the negative side of the battery, you'll need to disconnect this and remove it if you ever replace the battery. I had to pull the battery because I installed a "battery warmer" (basically, an electric blanket for a car battery), because it REALLY helps when doing starts when it's down below -20. It took me probably over an hour to get that whole thing out...what an awful job that was. On the plus side, the battery is really secured in there quite strongly (huge piece of steel holding the top down, with a plastic part for what is probably anti-vibration under it).

It appears that the electrical system will be shut down if you simply disconnect the negative jump terminal under the hood. From the manual:
08 - Electrical/8F - Engine Systems/Battery System/BATTERY/Removal REMOVAL WARNING: To protect the hands from battery acid, a suitable pair of heavy duty rubber gloves should be worn when removing or servicing a battery. Safety glasses also should be worn.
WARNING: Remove metallic jewelry to avoid injury by accidental arcing of battery current.
CAUTION: The negative battery cable remote terminal (2) must be disconnected and isolated from the remote battery post (1) prior to service of the vehicle electrical systems. The negative battery cable remote terminal can be isolated by using the supplied isolation hole (3) in the terminal casing.

Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable remote terminal from the remote battery post.

I agree - there are terminals available, but if you disconnect them the battery will still be plugged.

Going to install 20s on my Journey this week. This is how it is supposed to look, hope reality would not disappoint

Thanks. Already installed Viper SmartStart

nicely done, man
now you need those modded front lights

That is all great, in theory, and that's how things are supposed to work. It's also great for marketing. But in practice, things are not always as they seem.
Did you ever have the plenum off your 3.8 with 200,000+ miles on it? The problem isn't seen on the TB, though a clean butterfly valve may suggest less of an issue.
People put them on their 5.7s because there is so much oil in the vapor that even from regular use, after a couple years there is so much oil build up in the intake manifold that it's hard to believe that somebody didn't just pour a quart of it into there directly. If you Google "hemi oil intake manifold" in Google images, you'll see plenty of examples as to why you need one in a 5.7. It took a few years of use after they started production before these issues were found out. It's around the same amount of time that the 3.6 has now been in use. That being said, I'm curious if we'll start seeing these same types of issues in the 3.6. You won't "see" a problem unless you pull the plenum. Eventually (with the 5.7) the problem becomes more obvious when you start seeing blue smoke on startup, and poor performance due to gummed up valves.
Time will tell on the 3.6. I'm not installing one yet, but I will be watching my oil levels closely. If it's down more than "slightly" between changes, it's throwing it into the intake, which means I'll be installing a catch can.
If you don't plan on keeping your vehicle more than a couple years, it won't matter to you. I'm not planning on changing either of my vehicles (and both have a 3.6) any time in the next 8+ years. If I start seeing oil issues, a catch can is going onto both of them. It could greatly extend the life of the engine.

Flow master exhaust
Powder coated original rims
Debadged all except main symbols which are now black
Grill painted black
Calipers painted red along with emblem caps
Tail lights fogged and tint

69-2546TS is for the 3.6 (2011+ models).
69-2543TTK is for the 3.5 (models up to 2010).
Check the "vehicle application guide" of each to see what it applies.
Personally, I'm trying to find a way to custom-build the K&N I pulled off my SRT8 before I traded it in. Will take some work, but I'm determined to fit it in there. I'm not buying another kit when I already have a massive filter and really just need to customize some kind of aluminum case for it and a 4" (OD) pipe to the existing straight-pipe section.

You are looking at rather time consuming and expensive process to have it done right: jacks + 4 hours (of mine) cost more than $60. I'd rather pay $60 and have it done professionally, that's why was wondering about the process to ask the right question to the body shop or whoever can do them.

Have you noticed a difference in Gas Mileage? If so about how much?

[Tools Required]
Small flat head screw driver
A cloth (any will do)
Step 1. take small flat head and place cloth over the tip.
Step 2. place tip of screw driver just above the chrome base of the shifter knob
Step 3. pry a bit gently but with a little force (not enough to break it)
Step 4. the cap should pop off then all thats required is just pull the shifter knob up.
Note. i read that its easier to do this with the vehicle in neutral rather then park as then the shifter is facing almost 90 degrees straight up.
Hope this helps