Brother_Dave

You’d think that by now I’d have a “final verdict” right? Sadly, this is not the case. We’re (my mechanic and myself) 99.99% sure the problem is in the ABS. The issue with that is, last I checked, they we’re on back order until at least April. I can’t say it was “resolved” exactly because I live in fear of it going out again. But, try disconnecting your ABS, tapping it (my mechanic’s words, I guess that means lightly hit it), and reconnecting it.

This IS my theory, largely based on you posting your own issues back when this all started in August. Still waiting to hear from my mechanic. I did a little internet “research” and am terrified of the prices I see for a replacement. Anywhere from $350 to $900. And that’s just the part. That doesn’t include the labor.

My mechanic checked the ground the last time it was giving me this problem. Said it was fine.

Same

Looks like I may have jinxed it. It started the possessed routine this morning after 4 months of being “ok”. It’s currently on the way to the shop but I noticed something curious. I started it this morning with no problem. I was letting it warm up for a few minutes. I noticed that when it started the SiriusXM channel list was updating. When I came back out about 10 minutes later, it was being possessed again. I stupidly turned the car off instead of driving it directly to the shop. I’m wondering if the SiriusXM update caused the programming to be “kicked”. That was the terminology my mechanic used last time, saying something “kicked” the programming.

I’ve waited to update this thread until I was sure it was “fixed”. It’s been running two months but I’m still not convinced. i sent it to my mechanic and he replaced several parts; rf module, fr module, and ignition module. Everything was fine for about a day. The next day it went back to being possessed, and ultimately back to the shop. This time he had me a new key made (the one I had was aftermarket and had its own issues) and cleaned up the connections to the fuse box under the hood and the ABS. He kept it a few more days after that to ensure it wouldn’t fail on me again. I got it back later that week and it has been running like a champ ever since. Long story short, I have no idea why it went berserk on me, but I will never jump off another car again!

I threw in the towel. I’d been trying to get it to start all morning with no luck. I called a mechanic I know who has exponentially more knowledge than my pitiful excuse for amateur knowledge, and he sent a tow truck. It’s now in the hands of the professionals. I will update when he’s done diagnosing the issue.

Yes. It was running. I didn’t think one was supposed to do it otherwise.

Unlike the previous times, this time I CAN NOT get it to start. I have been observing everything I can. I’m just about ready to throw in the towel and call a shop. Is there any way to definitively tell if the BCM is bad? I don’t want to throw parts at it. I’m about out of $ as it is.

It’s the 4”. Did you end up replacing?

Bad news. I tried to start it up this morning and it went back to the possessed routine. I’ll try to describe what the routine is like 1. Open the car door. The display on the dash (not the radio) comes on but depending on the time before I push the start button, might flicker out. 2. Push the start button and nothing happens. Inductor light nicer moves from “off” 3. Open and shut the door. Radio turns on. 4. Open door, radio shuts off. 5. Try to push the start button, AC and wipers turn on. All dash lights turn on. “NO BUS” displays at the top of the dash display. If I push the start button they turn back off. 6. Periodically, the indicator will go to ACC or RUN but will not try to start 7. After cycling through this several times the vehicle eventually starts and will run through the course of the day. It only gives me the issue if it has sat for several hours. I’m really start to think my problem is in the BCM.

Update: I had the battery tested this morning (I’ve had it go through the possessed routine twice since I last posted). It was low on cold cranking amps. I bought a new one and put it in. It started right up and the check engine light went away. Maybe I wasn’t blowing fuses after all? Here’s to hoping that was the solution.

I have no idea. I bought it used 9 months ago and it’s the battery it had in it.

I appreciate it everyone! First thing tomorrow I’ll go have the battery tested. Question on that, can that be done accurately through the posts under the hood or does that require taking off the tire? (I’ve never owned a vehicle where the battery wasn’t easily accessible)

Yes. It’s F145. So the fact that it keeps blowing fuses is indicative of the BCM being bad? That answer makes the most sense but I’m not happy about it.

Update: I changed the fuse again and the light went out, so SOMETHING is causing it to keep blowing.

No. The “attempted” was in reference to the fact that it didn’t start. The battery was way bad and wouldn’t take a charge. I am very careful to hook the cables up carefully after a huge mistake decades ago.

Two days ago I attempted to jump start a friend’s truck with my 2013 Journey (I don’t know if this is related to my problem, or if it’s a coincidence). When I got in the vehicle yesterday morning it would not even attempt to start. By that I mean that the ignition lights wouldn’t move past “off”. When I would try and leave the vehicle, as soon as I shut the door the radio and air conditioning would turn on and the windshield wipers would start going as well. After a few attempts everything went back to “normal” and the vehicle would start and drive, but the “check engine” light was on. I took it to O’reilys and had them pull the codes. The only code that came up was “U0140 Lost Communication With Body Control Module”. I found the 30amp fuse location under the hood and changed it. Everything seemed fine and the “check engine” light went off. I drove around a decent amount the rest of the day with no problems. This morning I drove a very short distance and turned the vehicle off. Less than 5 minutes later I started it and ALL the dash lights lit up, including the phrase “no bus” on the display. I turned the vehicle off and tried to start it again. The process from yesterday repeated itself. I was able to get it started and back home. The fuse looks blown again, I will be going to get a new one shortly. Does anyone have some insight? My fear is the body control module needs to be replaced, but that’s a lot of money and I’d hate to be wrong. Also, what are the chances trying to jumpstart my buddies truck is what caused the problem?

I was driving my 2013 Journey in a decent amount of rain today and the wipers stopped working correctly. They will go up but not down and the motor makes a pretty loud hum when they are “stuck” in that position. I can push them back down with a little force and then they will go down on their own at about 2/3 down. I don’t THINK it’s the motor, but I can’t imagine what it is. Anyone have any suggestions? TIA

Last week I lost the fob to my 2013 Journey. I have a friend at the used car lot where I bought it and he had another fob for my vehicle that didn’t have the emergency key. With that fob I could lock and unlock the doors, but that’s it. No passive entry, no push button starting. I ordered a replacement fob online and it came today. Locksmith came out and programmed the fob. Now passive entry works and the car will start, but ONLY if I push the start button WITH the fob. Furthermore if I open a door and close it, the “key has left the vehicle” alarm goes off and won’t stop unless I turn off the vehicle. I changed the battery and tried the “methods” I found on YouTube like pushing unlock then lock, or putting the car in “run” with the fob and then setting it in the door handle (that one didn’t make sense but I found two different guys on YouTube doing it so I thought it was worth a try). Any suggestions as to what else I can try short of a new fob and/or locksmith?

My new (to me) 2013 journey’s heater works great in the front, blows cold in the back. I’ve looked over the fuses and they all seem to be fine. Any suggestions as to what I check next?

Thanks. That’s pretty much what I figured. I was hoping for the Bluetooth to play my music/podcasts through the stereo without having to use the USB port in the console, but no matter. I just upgraded from an ‘89 F150 so I’m not gonna complain. Thanks for your help.

This may be a ridiculous question I recently purchased a 2013 Dodge Journey SXT. All the signs point to it having a Uconnect 4.3s, except it doesn’t seem to have Bluetooth. Is it just likely that there is simply no Bluetooth on the model I have? If so, is it affordable/easy to upgrade to a system that has Bluetooth?