FourthGauge

I had this issue on my jeep commander a couple years back.. .first time it was the thermostat... 10 bucks and 15mins fix.. second time it was the water pump failing. a few more bucks and mins, but it was easy on the jeep... not sure what it'd be like on a journey.

Thanks! Yeah, from what i've been seeing, $750 is the best price i can find.. that's CAD, too. There's a 2011 Journey that just landed a week ago at a U-Pick scrap yard nearby.. i'm going to go have a look and see what it's like... I guess there's no way for me to test it in the yard, eh?

I'll look into that company.. Bodyline is who gave me the price of the engine with 200k on it. His father had the work done at Canadian Tire... the guy said "If it were my kid, i'd replace it.." but i honestly doubt it required changing. His dad is not very mechanically inclined and just trusts whoever is working on his vehicle "knows their stuff"... he paid a hefty bill for pretty simple work.. He aslo had the oil changed regularly and commuted a lot for his job, so his changes would have been frequent, also. V told me his car said it was due for an oil change.. i handed him a coupon we had recently received in the mail and he had it done within a week.. I've drilled it into his head to check his oil between changes as he was driving my old truck when the engine blew because it was totally dry.. it wasn't his fault, it was mine for sure because i had been lazy and hadn't checked in a while, knowing it burned oil.. but hadn't driven it at all in the bit before hand. anyways... the basic maintenance has been handled in this car, so over heating and no oil would not be factors in this.

I asked V about the previous week of driving before this happened and he said there was major loss of power... merging to highway speeds took substaintially longer than they should have.. i really wish he had said something when it first began.... anyways.. the mechanic did attempt the manually crank the engine in front of me... we did it in the parking lot together.. tried with and without the belt on... it wouldn't budge either way.. I'm pretty sure his father bought the car new.. or nearly new in the year or two after... previous to his son driving it since aug 2019, it sat for a year because his father was provided with a company vehicle.. he'd start it up once in a while but didn't drive it around because he didn't have it insurred... that's what the work was for back in aug... new calipers, rotors, pads & an oil pan.. I priced out a used engine with 200k on it for $750.. mechanic says swapping engines in these is fairly simple.. my friend and i might have a go at it considering it the car is only 7 years old with 162k on it.. his Dad said he'd rather put a few bucks into it to fixing it since buying another "reliable" vehicle would cost much more... we shall see what happens!

i wouldn't waste the money on it... we'll see what happens tomorrow, i suppose.

Ok.. bizzare update - this guy says the engine is seized.. he pulled the starter and bench tested it.. it was no good, he replaced the starter and it only clicked.. he tried to turn the engine over by hand and said there was no movement. i asked what could have caused this and he said he was unsure and that tomorrow he could pull the oil pan and check for any signs... but basically left us with "engine failure"...

Hmm.. I don't think that was the case when it broke down... At least when i was in the vehicle, there were no abnormal accessory functions. I tried to test Fuse 121 but i couldn't get a good lead on my test light.. plus that fuse box is jammed in the most awkward place and my pick up was parked by a tow truck beside this vehicle and it was all crooked so i could even get his passenger door all the way open... The guy working on the Journey today isn't the main guy i usually see.. so i hope he thinks to check the simple things first.

So, brief update - i had the vehicle towed to my guy up the street.. he thinks it might be the fuel pump relay inside the TIPM... said he if it is, he can likely do an external relay fix (i assume he would bypass the FPR inside the TIPM).. otherwise, we might be looking at a new TIPM which starts at $700-$1000... Does anyone have experience with this type of issue?

It's a push button I came across a wicked site called alldaydiy.com & was able to access a lot of information (paid for 1 year access to this vehicle)... i was a bit lazy on taking the battery back out, so it's on charge now.. planning on doing some testing tomorrow and tracing wires from fuses etc... i'll report back with my findings to hopefully give some clarity and get closer to pin pointing this issue. I appreciate everyone's feedback.. i'm open to all options & past experience situations, still!

I thought so too which is why i was surprised to see the lack of charge in the battery after 28 hrs... i've resurrected my truck & jeep batteries with my little genius charger... buddy at Canadian Tire tested it & wrote up the warranty paperwork.. I will try to clean the starter connections and see what that does for me.. I did swtich the relay out with a wiper relay & it didn't make a difference. I want to say 162,xxx kms, i can verify that in a bit when i go out to clean all of the connections. What mostly worries me is the funky electrical fire smell that came out of it when it originally died & later when i tried to test with a new battery and stuff... i had the key turned on yesterday while checking some fuses & didn't notice a smell.. so maybe whatever shorted out has burned whatever was in its path & is done? lol

I haven't.. that does come up as one of the possible causes for this code, but apparently it's rare.. i tend to throw parts at things and see what works (ie. the alternator i put in..) but now that i have some proper tools to tell me where the issues might be, i kind of want to take that path.. with this covid crap going on, i don't want to spend needlessly either..

Hey Everyone, I joined this forum in hopes that someone can give me a little push in the right direction to get this figured out... Full disclosure - I am at best a junior backyard mechanic.. so, i'm tryin! haha Hokay, so this isn't my vehicle, it's my partner's son's... it was his father's, he put some money into it before transferring it over but none of the things he had worked on have to do with this (he had new calipers, oil pan & battery installed - Aug 2019).. A few days ago, V (son) says his car just shut off while he was driving.. he was driving along and tried to accelerate a bit to get up a small hill and the car had no guts, lost power, power steering, brakes.. he pulled over, called us, we showed up and i asked him to start it again.. it started.. it idled for a bit while i checked around for something obvious - to no avail... V said his car has sounded like shit the last couple times he'd driven.. he hadn't done much driving for a long distance or anything.. i'm not sure exactly where he went and when.. but it wasn't much if any.. so, i have him try to recreate the issue.. we started driving, a short way down the road i asked him to turn right on an industrial road... we go for a bit, nothing happens, he turns around to head back... i asked that he turn back around and this time, speed up consistently, but not like a racecar driver.. just normally... i wanted to hear it shift... from 1st to 2nd he probably hit about 3800rpm before it shifted and then 2nd to 3rd, in and around the same... and this is just normal acceleration.. so i gathered that the tranny was having troubles... then it happened again & shut off.. I popped the hood and there was an awful smell of electrical burning... I popped the plastic cover off the top of the engine and found an air hose detached from the engine.. the little one, not the big intake.. i popped it back on and tried to look around for "something obvious".. nothing.. no smoke, nothing melted, nothing glowing (when we tried to start it again)... We had it towed home.. i plugged in my little OBDll tester (super cheap, but generally does the trick).. i got the P0562 System Voltage Low... a similar thing happened to our 2010 Jeep Commander so i thought, sweet! It 's the alternator.. i can do that! and i did.. i did that and pulled the battery and left it on a trickle charge for 28 hours, the battery was still between 25-50%.. so i said F that - warranty!! did the swap at Canadian Tire, put the new battery in & NOTHING... all lights come on in the dash.. headlights are bright.. at first the was a bit of a click so i assumed a jump would help.. but it did not.. and now any attempts, there are no clicks.. i had my neighbour smack the starter while attempting and nothing.. so.. i have invested in a half decent multimeter & test light (I did have these 2 tools before but they cost about $30 all together and i didn't trust them)... So.. today - i started testing the fuses & little voltage drop tests (which probably aren't all that accurate because i have 11.92 at the battery and have to charge it tonight.. which i will do & will have a fll 12.4 or whatever tomorrow!)... anyways, i know some of the fuses need the ACC on or the engine running to work, but a dear mechanic friend who is super inconveniently 3 provinces away, said that the ASD fuses should always be live... so, AHA! i am getting somewhere! But then he hits me with a, "You need the fuse skematics and this is probably too much & you should take it in and have it looked at" - which, he is probaaably right, but, i can feel my brain expanding with knowledge and we're on a lockdown and i finally have time to research and learn & test.. so.. here we are.. FUSES: I think it says ASD on the PDC Cap map F164 - 25 AMP - NO POWER F165 - 20 AMP - NO POWER F167 - 30 AMP - NO FUSE AT ALL (is this a problem??) Fuses above are in the pink circle, but also the ones in the blue circle have no power as well as the 20 amp and top 2 -10 amps (the 4 fuse column at the bottom of the box thing - i forgot to circle it...) Your turn and thank you to anyone who actually read this far!! You're a peach!