Xyberz

I'll make a video next weekend and upload it to YouTube so everyone can see the whole process.

Here's a pic of the belt tensioner. I don't believe before me, it's ever been used since this car came out of the factory.

No, this car came all the way from Hawaii with us and now we are in Vegas. We don't drive anywhere with snow and Cali is the only place we typically drive to now besides here at home. And I do appreciate the advice, environmental factors definitely made a big difference one intervals of when things need to be replaced. For example here there's a ton of dust flying around all the time even if it's not always visible so that definitely affects parts like it wouldn't like back in Hawaii. Then again Hawaii had tons of humidity 95% of the time that will affects things differently. I see where you're coming from though.

Obviously nothing, just not always into replacing things that look and seem to be working perfectly fine possibly much sooner than required. I mean honestly the belt looks like it could easily last at least another 10k miles as it has no cracks anywhere and there's a decent amount of groove left, but I'm replacing it anyways. The cost is just adding up quickly once you start with "while you're in there replace this and that" mentality you know? If that's truly the case then I should just replace the damper pulley too since I'm taking it out anyways? Correct me if I'm wrong?

Just a valid question. You truly think it should be replaced at this time with 66k miles?

Our vehicle has a little over 60K miles and I'm not hearing any kind of funny noises and the original belt is still technically good but I'm replacing the belt regardless. Why should i replace the tensioner if it has no signs of malfunctioning? The tension on the belt is still stiff like it's supposed to be, at least IMO. There also is no rust on it either. I'm sure it's a good idea to replace it should you have any doing of it not functioning as it should and/or it's visibly damaged but in our case none of that applies.

It definitely has a serpentine belt for the pulleys but might using a timing chain behind it.

Already in top of that. Have a new one already presoaked in 303 Protectant and new thermostat with housing since I cracked the old one getting the hose off.

Thank you for the link. I've literally done almost everything except yank out the water pump out after all the bolts were loosened. I was just asking really if anyone knew the best way to physically remove it from it's mounted position once you do unbolt it. I think the best option is gonna be by removing the harmonic balancer which you can rent the tool from an auto parts store for free with a deposit. I don't think the other 2 methods I suggested would be logical. So I technically have almost done about 50% of the repair. But since I didn't have the right tool I had to put it back together. When I get the tool I think I'll make a video since there is none available anywhere and not even posted in any forum.

Sorry, posted something that isn't related. Can't delete the post for some reason.

Has anyone attempted to do this and successfully completed this task? It's such a huge headache to get to the pump and even when u have all the bolts off/loose, it's still being blocked so it can't come out unless u remove/move one of 3 things it seems. Either the harmonic balancer (the most likely choice), looks like what is the top engine mount, or the A/C compressor. I assume it would be a bad idea to completely unbolt the top engine mount as the engine might lean over making it nearly impossible to put said bolts back in afterwards? There are NO videos on YouTube and Google search hasn't resulted in anything for the 3.6L for the Dodge Journey or any inverted Pentastar 3.6L. Would've been nice if these damn designers could've left it straight like they do in the V6 Durango so it would be a million times easier to work on.