Shawn855

Exact same issue with mine. Ever find the solution? 

4 hours ago, 2late4u said:

i am no way a transmission man but since you replaced the filter and fluid,and it is still doing it there might be a trans update they could do but i would be more into the solenoid shift module which is inside of your trans might need a twick or something ..............one symptom of a bad unit,,,,,

3. Hard Gear Changes........... gear changes after a slow change up or down are another strong indicator of a shift solenoid problem. You’ll often hear a clunking sound, and the car might lurch for a moment as it grabs the next gear. Again, it can happen when you’re going up or down the tree, but you’re more likely to notice it shifting from first to second.

In some cars, hard downshifts with normal upshifting can mean that the problem is isolated to just the downshifting solenoid. This is just one solenoid in the entire transmission solenoid pack. You’re most likely to notice an issue like this if you’re coasting to a stop and the road has a mild incline. At some point, before you step on the brakes, the transmission downshifts with a soft “Clunk.”

My erratic shifts are only upshifts. Downshifts are perfect. Theory: maybe I need to remove battery posts for an hour to reset the tcm learning since I now have fresh transmission fluid set at the correct level? (Vehicle was 20mm overfilled when i got it). 

Just updating this topic. The update is actually a PCM downgrade? As per my paperwork, "Flashed the PCM from 68274648AC to 68244648AE"

3 hours ago, 2late4u said:

about 6 months ago mine made a funny noise as it was closing BUT it still works if when closing it i push it back closed, gently  i wasnt sure what happened but as long as it will close i didnt want to tear into it as i have a poor track record on fixing things like this....LOl

Lol ya i tore right into mine. That little spring does NOT want to stay in place, so I threw it away. Still opens and closes perfectly. Just takes forever for it to open now, as there is no spring action lol

Now that I sold my other vehicle and only drive the journey, I'm becoming a lot more aware of the quirks it has since buying it at 50k kms. Specifically the way it shifts. It's like it jerks a bit before shifting into 4th, 5th and less noticeable 6th. It's to the point where I know when the suv is about to shift because I feel the little kick, then the 2nd kick as it shifts. 

I've seen some posts on the matter, but some of them had the issue go away with software updates. I don't think this suv received any software update so my question is this: is there a way to see if there are any pcm/tcm updates available for my car without going to the dealer and asking them? 

And if there are updates, would the dealer install them if I ask then to without them diagnosing anything, since the shifting jerks are random and not always there? 

In my mind I'd like to just go to the dealer and be like  "my tcm/pcm versions are this. Please update them to the most current versions".  Just to rule it out. I'm at 120k kms and these quirks have pretty much always been there. For the hell of it I did the transmission fluid drain and fill along with the filter. No change. 

Thanks 

Great write-up. Currently dealing with this, this morning. Saw that the spring was out and tried pushing it back into place with a flathead screwdriver. It worked, but it just snapped out of place again. Was running late for work so I'll spend proper time with it later. 

My 2016 sxt with 120k kms just started doing this 2 days ago. Goes to shift into 6th and slips a little then catches itself. Doesn't always do it but I can feel it when it does. Almost like a loss of power thing. 

Seeing as how I never changed my transmission fluid and filter on it yet, I figure this is a good time to do so lol. Ordered the parts. Will update on if it helped or not. Not too worried. This transmission has always had weird little hesitation / stutter issues since getting it at 50k kms. Worst case if it gets worse, I go to the dealer and trade it in lol

3 minutes ago, 2late4u said:

we just got home from the dr office, I didnt notice it after it was warmed up today... one thing tho, yrs ago the dodge dealership had to replace my oil pressure sensor and they had removed the air intake tube that runs from the air box to the rear of the engine and when they reassembled it they left the adjustment clamp loose and the tube was kind of floppy at the connection band for around 4-5 months,and  the journey was having a loud noise that went up and down with the engine speed till i finally tracked it down to that loose connection... LOL never trust any mechanic......

It's why I do all the work myself lol. Funny you mention the air intake story, because I JUST changed the air filter and since then is when I started noticing the noise. Coincidence? Maybe I'll throw the old air intake back in and see...

Edit: air filter, not air intake.

1 minute ago, 2late4u said:

will do it this morning just for you....LOL

LOL you're the best. Main thing I noticed is on cold startup it can be heard inside vehicle and outside. When vehicle is warm, you won't hear it outside the vehicle; only inside the vehicle if you turn off the radio and Rev it a few times while idling.

2 minutes ago, 2late4u said:

mostly just warming up as i said i really dont listen for it 

Well if you're ever bored and sitting in your warmed up journey, feel free to give it a couple revs and let me know <3 ❤️ lol 

18 minutes ago, 2late4u said:

yes i hear what you are talking about, doesn't bother me when i hear it on my journey, actually mine is a bit louder than that i think 149980 k as well

Thanks for the reply. Does yours continue to do it even when the engine is warmed up? 

Thanks

On 10/31/2018 at 11:15 AM, checkstr said:

This sounds similar to an issue I'm having and already misdiagnosed.  The whining would begin as soon as I turn the car on...Then, it would go away briefly and return.  If I am just sitting in park and revving the engine, the whine would get louder.  If it wasn't making any noise at the time, I could easily replicate it by turning the steering wheel as far as it can go in either direction.  Once I returned the steering wheel back to center and waited a few seconds, the noise would disappear but would reappear again shortly thereafter.  Hopefully this makes sense.  I don't hear it when I'm driving, but that could just be the result of the road noise cancelling it out.

 

I took it in to get looked at and was told that the PS fluid was really dirty and needed to be changed.  I had that done, but the noise still persists.  I am bringing it back in on Friday to ask wtf?  I honestly think this is the PS pump going.   

Ever figure this out? Same exact thing with mine.

Is this whine normal? I think it's always been there since getting the suv at 50k kms (it's at 125k now) but I don't remember. Seeing other videos on YouTube I can hear the whine as well but mine does it when the engine is cold and doesn't go away when it's warmed up. It's always there. 

Just looking to see if others here have this whine while idling and revving engine. Thanks 

Hi guys, 

Just looking for some input. My AC has been topped up and I've noticed that the compressor short cycles. I know on some vehicles this is normal but I'm not sure if it's normal for the journey as I'm hearing various things including not enough freon, too much freon, normal operation, not normal, etc. It blows nice and cold but in the span of a minute the compressor will turn off and on again about 3-5 times or so. This seems rather often to be considered normal operation in my opinion. 

The second thing I'm noticing is the compressor is always running. I even turned it to blow on my face (not defrost) on max heat and still the compressor was cycling on and off. 

Appreciate any feedback that you fine ppl provide. 

Hey guys,

The line to my rear ac is damaged so I was going to block it off and use only the front ac. I'm seeing a lot of block off kits and tutorials for the older journeys and caravans but none for the newer gens. Have any of you performed this job? It's for a 2016 journey 3.6L.  

5 minutes ago, Guillaume said:

Do you have the torque spec for the rear brakes? Specifically the caliper bolt and the caliper mounting bracket bolt. 

Rear brake mounting bolts: 80ft-lbs

Caliper bolts: 26ft-lbs 

There is no guesswork to see how much weight is needed to prevent tire from spinning and 100 ft-lbs is certainly not enough torque to cause the vehicle to move off of the jack. If the car moves forward off the jack, you need a better jack or more level terrain. 

And I can assure you the torque tolerance is higher than 3-4 ft-lbs or else people wouldn't be debating it so often. I know of quite a few shops that torque them in the air for this very reason, Costco being one of them.  

I personally choose my method because it makes sense to me. Less weight on wheel = less resistance against torque applied = more accurate torque being applied to each lug nut. Follow the service manual or owners manual like it's gospel for all I care. I know what works for me and what doesn't. I will also note that I've done both methods before, and that since following the "minimal weight on wheel" method, I've never had a lug nut back off, when it came to retorquing. 

And yes we do agree on some things  

And I agree Loco, I have a perfect example of that: 

On my Chevy Cruze I was getting some mild vibration on the highway when leaving my house in the morning that lasted for about 10 minutes until the engine was warmed up. It ended up being my air filter restricting air to the engine, causing the engine to work a little harder, sending mild vibrations while it warmed at highway speeds. When I changed the air filter, the vibration disappeared and never returned. This stuff is enough to drive us crazy. 

Call it personal preference on my part to torque my wheels with weight off the tires. I would rightly assume that with the weight on the wheels, you'll probably hit an accurate 100 ft-lbs on the top nut(s), but when torquing the bottom nut(s) the weight on the tire won't get you an accurate torque. Think about it, you're applying pressure to the nuts with the tire weighted down on the ground. But hey it's all personal preference. There's tons of debates on this subject and each person will choose their own respective way. 

As for the manual stating the tire should be on the ground , I'm thinking they mean lower the tire just enough so it gets traction on the ground so you can torque the nuts without the tire spinning. Which is what I do. I lower the tires to the ground just enough to prevent them from spinning , while still having 90% of the weight off them, so that each lug nut gets an even amount of torque applied to it. 

Again that's my preference, I'm not here to debate which way is best. I simply know what works best for me after trial and error. 

 Regardless of your opinion on the effect of overtorquing the wheels, this is what solved the mystery vibration for me. 

I'll chyme back in to try and help out. My issue ended up being my wheels being torqued too tight. My torque wrench was off by 20 ft-lbs so instead of torquing to 100, it was actually torquing to 120. Once I acquired a new torque wrench, and followed the correct procedure of torquing (and retorquing after 80kms) with the weight of the vehicle off the wheels, my vibration went down 90% and rarely happens at all. 

Yes I understand that but again, it hissed the first time on my way back from the shop after he topped it up completely so the hissing wouldn't be caused from low freon in this instance. 

I also understand that simply adding freon isn't going to work as I had mentioned that he put dye in when refilling the system that will help track the leak when I head back. 

And finally, as mentioned above, the vehicle blows perfectly cold while the vehicle is in motion. It's only when it's at a standstill that the AC doesn't blow as cold. 

I saw the gauge when he topped it up and it was full. The hissing is most likely the slow leak no?

Thanks. I also forgot to mention they did put some dye in the system to try and trace the leak. So when I bring it back and they fix the leak, I'll mention that piece of advice to them. 

All they did was attach their gauge to it, saw it was low on freon, topped it up, then had to use their obd2 tool to get the compressor to kick back on again.