Power window fuses - There is one that isn't identified

[bramfrank]

I had a local shop pull power wiring for my navigator - I wanted them to leave me with one switched and one unswitched wire plus a ground in the headliner of my SE - I was planning to stuff the power cord/traffic receiver where the reading lights are - on an SE PLUS there's lot of space there - the unswitched wire was to power my GPS/GSM tracker.

He talked me into running the power cord down the roof pillar - for $50 including a power socket how could I argue? "Give me 30 minutes. Go have lunch and it'll be done and be very neat."

So we went out for chicken, came back after 45 minutes - the installation was neat. The navigator is above the mirror and the hanging wire is gone.

I drive away and we make it to our first stop - he had given the vehicle back with the windows open - it was a nice day so we drove with them open. When we got to where we were going the windows wouldn't close! So I drove back to the shop and they started looking at the problem.

According to the manual the only fuse is a circuit breaker in the fuse panel behind the glove box - they checked it. Every fuse was good and the circuit breaker was good - they checked continuity. They checked the switches and they were good. They then removed the fuse box (it plugs in) and traced the pins and circuits and THEY were good. They then looked at the power feed. There was no feed.

Now, there is only the circuit breaker - and there must be a relay somewhere, since the windows are ignition controlled - but there's no reference to it in the Installogy documentation.

Turns out (after 2 hours) that one of the boxy 60 amp fuses in the under-hood fuse box is in series with the circuit breaker - and it was open - I believe it was identified as: Interior Power Distribution Center Rail Ignition Run Relay. it was NOT identified as a fuse for the windows, yet that seems to be the only item it feeds power to.

So if your power windows stop working, start by checking the master fuse box - look at the middle fuse in the row of 7 and you will likely have found the problem.

I certainly seem to have gotten my money's worth in terms of the amount of tech time for my money. I'd have been happier to have had a more productive afternoon.

[Lebowski]

I had a local shop pull power wiring for my navigator - I wanted them to leave me with one switched and one unswitched wire plus a ground in the headliner of my SE - I was planning to stuff the power cord/traffic receiver where the reading lights are - on an SE PLUS there's lot of space there - the unswitched wire was to power my GPS/GSM tracker.

Doesn't that invalidate the warranty? I'd love to pull a wire for the gps, but I think I will use the existing socket in order not to touch the wiring.

According to the manual the only fuse is a circuit breaker in the fuse panel behind the glove box

I read in the manual that there's a fuse panel there, but I couldn't locate it (and, yes, I know how to unlock the glove box door).

Turns out (after 2 hours) that one of the boxy 60 amp fuses in the under-hood fuse box is in series with the circuit breaker - and it was open - I believe it was identified as: Interior Power Distribution Center Rail Ignition Run Relay. it was NOT identified as a fuse for the windows, yet that seems to be the only item it feeds power to.

In short, don't trust the manual, it was written by the same morons who designed the car electrical system & software

[bramfrank]

Actually the fuse block is BEHIND the glove box - you are supposed to remove it to gain access, but it is simpler to pry two plastic rivets that hold the underdash trim, move it aside and go in from below - the fuse block pivots out from it's mount.

As to warranty issues? He tapped the power from a spare fuse location by plugging a blade connector into the fuse socket - no cut wires.

Besides, at least on the left side of the Atlantic warranties cannot be invalidated by user modifications, though a claim can be denied if the modification caused a failure - which means I had to pay for my own replacement fuse. $5!!!!!

[Lebowski]

Actually the fuse block is BEHIND the glove box - you are supposed to remove it to gain access, but it is simpler to pry two plastic rivets that hold the underdash trim, move it aside and go in from below - the fuse block pivots out from it's mount.

OK, I'll see if I can find it.

As to warranty issues? He tapped the power from a spare fuse location by plugging a blade connector into the fuse socket - no cut wires.

Could you tell me if the spare location already had power and its number? (I think they had to put 2, you mentioned switched and unswitched).

Besides, at least on the left side of the Atlantic warranties cannot be invalidated by user modifications, though a claim can be denied if the modification caused a failure - which means I had to pay for my own replacement fuse. $5!!!!!

Well, I'm not 100% sure about my legal rights this side of the pond, but when I told the dealer that I could find a gas cap with key for less than 30€ when he quoted me 100€, he insinuated that he wouldn't do that with a new car still under warranty, go figure!

[Lebowski]

I found the fuse box, I was looking behind the door but it's actually below, on the right side.

Not the most convenient position but that's how it is.

In the manual there's a list of the fuses, some are for options that I don't have installed and a couple are marked as "reserved", I'll see if one of those has power.