goodbyeCapo

Car is back to original not starting condition, so I can't pull new codes. Got a busy few days coming up, will be back at it in a few days.

Well, just when I think I'm out they pull me back in... Seems there are electrical gremlins all over the place in this thing. So went back out to crank it up... back to not starting... However, since I had it running earlier I was able to now pull some codes. One in particular a u110 p code, which is some sort of communication error. I'll do some digging once I get out of the office today. I did locate the wires called out in this video related to the can bus.. But i havent had a change to investigate any further.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgOZjgOm420 Modular connectors on that one.

Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions, I have finally resolved the issue. So to not be one of those idiots who never come back to update a thread with their solution - SOLVED: The fuse box connection itself to the Starter Solenoid was loose and had corrosion underneath. I pulled the whole fuse box under the hood, given it's location and odd battery placement I wanted to check the connections to the box themselves I noticed the connection feeding to the Starter Solenoid slot k135 was a a bit dirty so I cleaned it up The clip was also loose but this may have happen as I was removing the box itself, either way verify it's snugly seated. Notes on missing this on my initial diagnosis: The solenoid on it's own tested good and I'd swapped it with another just to be sure. When I jumped the starter via a jump wire the starter worked fine even with the corrosion/loose connection. This is likely due to the extra pressure I applied inserting the slightly larger gauge wire in the slot. The vehicle didn't throw any codes. Which I imagine is the same behavior it would if the solenoid was failed.

Rained all day today so didn't get much done. One question to owners with push buttons: when your vehicle is off, does your steering wheel lock? Or can you turn it freely? Catching up on replies: 1. I tried that pushing the button 5 times thing way more times than I'd admit to before posting. 2. Brake switch works as far as the lights and transmission goes. Doesn't mean the signal is making its way to the ignition though. May pull it tomorrow and check the wiring.

Yeah, unfortunately push to start requires the vehicle to be in park. When trying with the vehicle in neutral I just get a message on the screen telling me the vehicle is not in park.

No go on that, found some information on the anti-theft system. Seems that's probably not it. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Thanks for the replies. Battery: I did install a new battery... which yes I agree.. what a pita location. I just pulled the voltage via the service terminals up top by the fuse box. 12.8v Keyfob: Not currently getting that, was initially which is what lead to changing the battery out. I can cause this condition by holding down the unlock button on the fob and pressing the ignition button + brake. Which likely isn't anything other than the limitation of the fob itself. Perhaps something with the immobilizer? I can't find much information in regard to this feature. The first thing I did.. accidentally was hit the panic button

My sister had her 2012 2.4l towed to my house after sitting up about a few months. After getting juice flowing again, when I press the brake then the push button, it just cycles through Acc, On, and Off. Almost like I'm not pressing the brake at all. It doesn't attempt to start. I've tried what knew off hand, scanned all the posts here, and looked at youtube. So maybe you all have an idea. What I've tried/tested: I replaced the battery in both the car and the keyfob. The locks and everything respond to the key fob. I checked the fuses and relays I jumped the starter relay, starter did turn. Checked the brake position switch, verified it turns on the lights and engages the transmission lock. I guess it's still possible its not sending a signal to the ignition? No codes are being thrown via obd currently. Additionally: I've read maybe there is a security feature keeping the car from starting? My sister mentioned the alternator might be bad, but I don't see why this would prevent the car from at least trying to start, but I've been wrong before. When the car was delivered I pulled a p0562 so that makes sense.