ronnellbagz

Nevermind.. got it.

• Genuine:
  
• SKU:04884873AA
• Other Names:Engine Coolant Pipe O-Ring, Inlet Tube Seal, 04884873aa, O Ring

Available in RockAuto as well.  [Link]

Someone please help me find the correct part number for this O-ring? I bought a FEL-PRO ES 728872 from RockAuto but it seems a little bit small. It would start to leak when the coolant gets hot enough.

Vehicle: 2013 Dodge Journey / 2.4L / 153,000 km

Thank you.

I got it fixed . It was the Steering Wheel Position Sensor (a.k.a  Air Bag Clockspring ) but cost me (CAD $450+) in Rockauto. It was Mopar Part. I cannot find an aftermarket for this that has an Angle Sensor in it.

Anyway, the replacement process was easy and I didn't have to perform re-learning or programming (which I don't have the capability at the moment).

And yes, I do agree Dodge Journey is pain... it's very sluggish too. Can't wait until this Chip Shortage crisis is over.


MOPAR 68067552AK

On 8/23/2020 at 2:23 PM, 2.4journey2013 said:

Also, I don't see a gasket for the outline of the secondary thermostat that sits in the head.
Would the picture attached be the correct gasket to sit against the head and water housing or is that for the main thermostat facing the front towards the radiator?

 

@2.4journey2013 Did you actually place the above gasket seal in between the secondary thermostat and Engine Block?

Thank you all for your inputs. I can concur that this it is indeed an open thermostat issue.

As a DIY mechanic (and for my own satisfaction), I really wanted to pinpoint which thermostat was really bad and not just replace the whole assembly(easier option) , for the reason I go thru this trouble.

Anyway, this morning I got the chance to diagnose the issue further. 

1. I had the Engine Cooling system bled, just to be sure there was no air in the system. Got some tiny bubbles out by squeezing the radiator hose but not really a lot.
2. Run the engine at idle for more than 30mins.  
3. MAX heater but Fan OFF. By turning OFF the cabin fan, I was able to reach coolant temperature @77C for the first time. Both OBD and Dashboard temperature reading showing the same readings and my temp gauge dial was almost in the center. This proves that my temperature sensor & dial gauge was actually working. However, if I turn ON the cabin fan, the temperature will drop significantly to 59~63 depending on fan blower settings. This make sense because the blower will somehow dissipate the heat of the heater core into the cabin.
4. I kept the engine running and rev to 2500 rpm for 30 seconds several times and now I was able to reach 103C (yey!). At this point, my temperature drops and my radiator fan turns ON momentarily. Although, I missed to observe the part wherein my 2nd thermostat (95C) exactly open but I did see some coolant fluid action, the coolant level dropped (which means T'stat No.2 [95C] opened, and coolant rushed in). Btw, I am using a radiator funnel. This proves my other T'stat is still OK.

My previous comment (drawing) was actually wrong. This should be the correct one. Might be useful for those who encounter the same issue.

Primary Thermostat = 77C (In Line, Inside Thermostat Assembly) <------- ROOT CAUSE (Stuck OPEN)

Secondary Thermostat = 95C (Attached to Engine Block)

@John/Horace & @2late4u, Thanks for your reply. I will try to replace both Thermostat. However, looking at different brands & different website such as RockAuto or Napa, there seem to be conflicting information.

Can you guys confirm if my interpretation is correct?

• Primary = 203C
• Secondary = 77C

Thanks!

My info system(dashboard) is showing 69C. Almost the same as what I have read in OBD2 scan.

@2late4u, there are 2 thermostat in there.. do you know which one i should replace? 
 

77C thermostat or 95C thermostat?

Hey guys! I recently noticed that my Temperature gauge reads low. The needle wont reach the center anymore regardless of how many hours of driving. As a result, I don't get enough heat in the cabin anymore which is kind of inconvenient especially in winter season (-20C, Canada). So I hooked my OBD scanner and noticed that my Engine Coolant Temperature rest in between 67C ~ 72C. I use excel to plot the chart.  I checked my vents actual temperature using a thermocouple and I get an average reading of 60C which I think is normal with respect to my current Engine Coolant Temp due to heat loss and cold weather outside. (Settings: max heat, max speed & focus air flow to front vent only).

OBD2 Scanner:

• Engine Coolant Temperature = 67C~72C
• Ambient Air Temp = -14C ~ -20C

Dashboard Temperature = 69C

Actual Thermocouple Readings (Vent) = 60C 

Now, I have been searching several forums & Youtube videos about it's possible causes and majority says it could be the "thermostat" and "temperature sensor". However, Repair Manual specifically says not to change thermostat for the lack of heater performance or temp gauge position unless a DTC is present.... I don't see any DTC in my scanner! 

2 years ago, I replaced the whole Thermostat Assembly because there was a leak but it was running fine after that until now. I bought the GATES CO34760 (Standard Replacement) Includes Thermostat; Includes Seal, Integrated Thermostat; 77C (172F) Degree / 95C (203F) Degree; OE Temperature.

I do understand that this Journey has 2 thermostat but I am puzzled when does the 77C thermostat opens? and when does the 95C thermostat open?

Anyone here experience the same issue before? Fix?

Please let me know.

Have you checked the fuse?

Got a 2013 Dodge Journey 2.4L FWD (144,000 km). Was checking the maintenance schedule and realized I was long overdue with these maintenance: Replace rear drive assembly(RDA) fluid and Replace power transfer unit (PTU) fluid.

As stated below, it was supposed to be done at 96k km. Anyone done this? Or is this only applicable for AWD?

I tried google & youtube to assess if I can DIY these but unfortunately there wasn't much information out there especially on PTU.

The RDA replacing seems easy enough but I can't seem to locate where is the PTU on a 2.4L FWD Engine (or is there any? Sorry for being dumb). If anyone have done this, please let me know or at least point me to the right direction (link).

Thanks!

Did the front wheel sensor fixed all the problem @Danbert? 
 

My 2013 Dodge Journey has a Traction light always ON (nothing else). I am using a BlueDriver OBD scanner and it gives me these codes.
 

U0429-00 Invalid Data Received From Steering Column Control Module: No Sub Type Information MIL/CONFIRMED

C0051-49 Steering Wheel Position Sensor: Internal Electronic Failure MIL/CONFIRMED

C0037 Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor: Signal Compare Failure

My 2013 Dodge Journey has a Traction light always ON (nothing else). I am using a BlueDriver OBD scanner and it gives me these codes. 

U0429-00  Invalid Data Received From Steering Column Control Module: No Sub Type
Information MIL/CONFIRMED

C0051-49 Steering Wheel Position Sensor: Internal Electronic Failure
MIL/CONFIRMED

C0037 Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor: Signal Compare Failure

Did anyone else have the same code? Do you think it's the wheel sensor or the steering wheel clock spring?

Thank you.

Need help please. The Traction Control Light won’t turn OFF on my 2013 Dodge Journey FWD (144,000 km). This is the only error that appears on my dashboard. However, When i tried to scan using bluedriver, it shows 4 codes (one not related to Traction)

1 Occupant Restraint Controller Code
B1CDC Passenger Occupant Detector Circuit High ACTIVE

3 Anti Lock Brakes Codes
U0429- Invalid Data Received From Steering Column Control Module: No Sub Type
00 Information MIL/CONFIRM
ED

C0051- Steering Wheel Position Sensor: Internal Electronic Failure
49
MIL/CONFIRM ED

C0037- Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor: Signal Compare Failure

I know you guys would probably say its my rear wheel speed sensor but when I scan the 2nd time, C0037 error was gone and yet the traction light is still ON all the time.
 

The traction light will turn on right after ignition, while the vehicle in parking and also while I am driving. Btw, I also monitored the voltage level of my battery at full load (AC on, max fan,.. etc) and it was solid 14.8-15Volts. So, Canbus voltage level should be ok.
 

I can try two things: Changing my rear wheel speed sensor or Changing my steering wheel clock spring but before doing that, I want to confirm first if the part is really defective.

How can I verify and test if the wheel speed sensor or steering wheel clock spring is defective?

Anyone has the similar problem? Please let me know what was the fix. Also feel free to let me know other things to check. 
 

Thank you.