Adam H

FREE. Just pay shipping. Otherwise they're going in the trash.

Still available. Just cover shipping and they're yours.

I ended up not using these for my big brake conversion on my Journey. Just realized I still had them. I just want to get them to someone who can use them.

$5 for the pair plus $8 shipping - $13 total via paypal or venmo.

On 12/18/2015 at 11:22 AM, Ian Grant said:

I went back and picked up the rear calipers from the same 2015 DJ RT and installed them recently. Again, everything went smooth except the splash guards with cover the back of the rotors need to either be replaced or removed to allow for the larger disc rotor (303 mm). Also the flexible brake hose to each caliper has to be replaced as the original is too short because the new calipers are bigger too. The dealer will gladly 'hose' you for $50 a piece for these.

I used 2013 rear calipers and the angle of the attachment for the flexible brake hose is a little different. I also noted the L bend at the caliper end is slightly more rounded. They stock lines will work, but you need to have the caliper positioned just right in the wheel well and then use a bit of muscle to get the caliper aligned to the bracket.

On 10/20/2014 at 3:48 PM, fox_raycing said:

The front calipers and rotors are the same as the caravans but the rear calipers

That's what the pats interchange will tell you, but it is incorrect. The front rotors appear to be the same judging by part numbers at various auto parts stores. I assure the front calipers are not the same. See above.

On 7/31/2018 at 8:03 PM, Adam H said:

A word of caution, I pulled a VIN from a 2013 or 2014 Journey off Autotrader and used a parts interchange at a junkyard.  The caliper mounting bolts don't match. At some point they revised the hub and caliper with more spacing between bolts.

Apparently you can only edit a post once. I don't believe the hub/spindle was revised on the Journey, the parts interchange is simply incorrect on the Calipers being the same between the Journey and the Town and Country.

I went to another junkyard to pick up a set of calipers. Their system also said Town and Country calipers would interchange, same problem. After more research, it appears that the rotor part numbers for a 2013 Journey and 2013 Town and Country are interchangeable, but the calipers are not. According to the junkyard interchange, the spindles for the Journey show interchange for 2011-2017, but are different than the Town and Country. This makes sense, as the calipers mount to the spindles.  Attached picture shows 2012 Journey single piston caliper vs 2013 Town and Country two piston caliper.

A word of caution, I pulled a VIN from a 2013 or 2014 Journey off Autotrader and used a parts interchange at a junkyard.  The caliper mounting bolts don't match. At some point they revised the hub and caliper with more spacing between bolts.

EDIT: I should have run the VIN through a decoder, looks like the VIN listed was for a Caravan (listed incorrectly on Autotrader), or perhaps that is the vehicle VIN the Junkyard used for interchange. So, if anyone is sourcing parts, the dual piston calipers off a caravan DON'T interchange.

The problem with higher lumen fog lights is that the beam is not as focused as say, headlights, and increased brightness can cause a lot of glare for other drivers.

I bought these and use them sparingly for that reason while driving on rural roads. They have worked for over a year with no issue.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UBHDMT8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.lumileds.com/products/automotive-oem-lamps/xenon

"The xenon 12V D5S is the most compact, most efficient and lightest alternative for carmakers to differentiate and enrich their high-volume compact vehicles. It allows carmakers to offer a xenon lighting solution based on the existing halogen system architecture. A D5S module fits into a majority of halogen headlight units without much additional effort. "

Food for thought.  Ran across these HIDs, and while they probably don't meed NHTSA spec, they are designed to be plug and play with factory halogen reflector housings.

And I'll just throw it out there that the IIHS has rated the vast majority every new headlight tested as 'poor' or 'marginal.'

Thanks for your input bramfrank, you make good points.

My photos are not good representations of before and after.  They were taken on different nights at slightly different angles and the brightness of the hotspots causes the camera to adjust brightness levels as well. As such, it's difficult to get a good read on the beam pattern and actually brightness.  The scatter/glare is comparable to stock Halogens.  Furthermore, the Halogens pictured are aged headlights, which means any glare or scattering is probably less pronounced than a new bulb.

Is it possible that OEMs designed deep reflectors to account for variances in filament placement by different bulb manufacturers?

I would point out that that your low beam HIRs have a similar amount of glare above the hot spots that would directly impact oncoming drivers.  I think it's safe to assume that it is part of the Journey reflector design as opposed to any particular bulb.

Which HIRs are you running?  Philips HIR2 9012 H7?

I'll try to get an on road beam pattern picture.

Sorry my post wasn't very clear.  The top picture is stock Halogen bulbs with fogs.  Bottom picture is HIDs only.  I left the fogs off to give a better picture of light scatter, or lack thereof.

There is light scatter and glare present with the stock bulbs.  You can see it just above the hot spot on both pictures.

The very rear part of the plasma ball is even with the Halogen filament.  The rest of the plasma ball is hidden behind the reflector.  These are well designed reflector headlights and well designed HIDs.  The potato quality ia due to cell phone camera, but it is demonstrative of the light pattern and that's the focus of this post.

There are many cars with poorly designed reflector housings not suitable for HIDs, it appears the Journey is not one of them.  Likewise, there are many poor HID kits, it seems Kensun is of good quality.  That is all.

I went with 35W HID bulbs.  I'll do a separate write up. The distance of the light source from the base on the HID bulb perfectly matches that of the Halogen bulb.  As a result, the beam pattern is exactly the same, but due to the increase in lumens, the field of view is much improved, especially at the edges -sides and down the road.  Before picture on top.  Sorry no fogs in the second picture, but we're focusing on beam pattern anyway.  I used Kensun SDX HIDs with 'Anti-Flicker Warning Cancellers'  

I absolutely abhor the idea of resistors, tried them and they got so instantly hot they would have melted plastic underhood.  Why put efficient 35W bulbs in only to add an additional 50W draw that is just making heat and asking for a fire?

I also tried a relay harness when i was having difficulties, but that didn't help either.  When I used only the warning cancellers did the HIDs begin to function properly.

I did 28+ mpg on the 150 mile trip home with the 2012 SXT, as indicated by the computer traveling 72-73mph. Used cruise control but no drafting or anything special.  Seems like pretty good mileage using E10 for a vehicle rated 25mpg highway.

New to this community, but typing is incredibly slow on mobile. tried botb AdBlock Plus browser and Chrome.  Also quoting is all messed up.  Also I too have problems with seeing thread replies.  Only the first post loads even though it says six replies.

4 hours ago, bigtsr said:

The actual inverter in the 2011 models was physically located in

the center stack by the radio module.Good info thanks!

I'll have to tear into the center console but I wonder if the harness is already there to service the 12v outlet?

Thanks for the reply.  I don't know if it's necessary to replace the entire console, though I have not  been to a junkyard to determine if the consoles are different with the exception of the back panel where the outlet is located in the second row.

Does anyone know where the inverter is actually located?

Angone have any experience swapping in a center console with the 115V outlet for the second row?