Eweaver915

I understand the whole not trusting the dealer on those things. My brother took his nissan in for 2 recalls, was told car needed 1600 in work to get it in shape to do recall. Needless to say he sold it and handed the recall notice to the new owner. I was going to do the injector orings myself before i took it to the dealer but parts store didnt have them in stock and i was about ready to blow a fuse troubleshooting it so just let them deal with it. Normally dont worry much about cars being down a bit but my wife proved to be my motivation here.

If the light flashed you should have pending codes in the pcm, even if the light is no longer on. Thats how CANbus works.

Sorry it took so long to reply. Dodge had it for little over a week here, just got it back Wednesday. They replaced 1 o ring on an injector, was seeping fuel (i tore it when swapping injectors around). I told them if they would just diagnose it then i would fix it myself, but due to insurance they could not work on it inside the shop knowing it was leaking fuel so i had them change it. Now comes the interesting part, the tech couldnt find a reason why it would suddenly act up. He checked everything i had done and no problems, they called to say they were still working on it but couldnt find anything wrong. Car was up for the WIN module recall (i had the paperwork but have been putting it off) so he went ahead and did the recall, reflashed the PCM for it and problem gone. It had to have been something wonky in the pcm, but it was not replaced, only flashed. Grand total, 110 labor for injector o ring, 9 dollars for o ring. WIN module, 2 new keys and the pcm flash were all taken care of by recall, at no cost. Do not know if the recall items caused the symptoms or if it was a glitch in the pcm, but my wife is happy to have car back, im happy it was under 130 after tax, and we are both happy with our local dodge dealership. Stand up guys, no hassle and im regaining some faith in car dealerships (had one of the plagued, 6.0 ford diesels before and lost all faith in ford dealershipS).

Spent 300 on a scope, cam and crank sensors working correctly, unless its a failsafe in the pcm then the pcm is faulty. Gonna hook it to the dodge house, ill post back with what they say.

Pumped tank till fuel pump quit pumping, filled halfway, no change.

Update. Fuel pressure is pretty solid at 55 psi between rail and supply, used 5/16 like from quick connect to rail. Needle was getting jumpy when it started sputtering, maybe 1-2 psi jumps but def happens with the feel of the miss. Got it to start missing and quickly pulled injector plug, noid light says no pulse when it stumbles. So aside from wiring, am i looking at anything else besides pcm?

Does anyone happen to know of a tee fitting that i can use to check fuel pressure on the rail? Only fitting i can think to use it the quick connect fuel inlet. Thanks, Eric

What i was thinking dusty, tried another sensor, no change. Im getting worried uts going to be a pcm issue, as the injectors all appear to go straight into it.

Does anyone know where i can find an engine wiring diagram for this? Im feeling like its going to be fault in the injector wiring. Swapping them around i can feel it clicking but nowhere near as hard as the others.

And dusty, i have moved same coil over 3 cylinders now, always cylinder 1 misfire. I would doubt carbon or valve issues as i have good compression.

Thats what i had thought dusty, but its only cylinder 1, no others. I just finished compression test, 150 on all 4 cylinders. Put new plugs in as well, it seems to run fine until i rev to 3000. Started shaking after a long idle, confirmed i have no fire on 1, pulled coil connector, no change, pulled injector plug, no change. I could feel the injector clicking once reconnected but no change in how running. Looked over wiring, all still covered and taped exactly how it came from factory so i dont think i have shorts there, dont wanna open the loom until last resort. Wife going to get another crank sensor right now, i been reading too much onthem being bad new from the box for my comfort.

Noid says injector is getting juice and when its sputtering and shaking if i pull the 1 coil pack connector off it gets much worse. Can also feel injector tapping with my finger while running so i think its on to new plugs and compression test right now. Its gotta be something electrical thats breaking contact once warm, idleing it is fine but once it gets warm i get 0301 pending then if i rev it the code is set.

Maybe onto something, im gonna ask wife but pretty sure she filled tank from empty just before all of this. Thank god this one doesnt have a timing belt, if i am getting pretty steady rpm reading through the scanner and no wierd jumps you still think it could be bad crank sensor? Might try another one, since it didnt seem to change anything. I have a noid light for the injector but is there anything similar for the coil? Thanks a million guys.

The thing that i kept coming back to with fuel pump was that its specific p0301 i figure fuel pressure would give me 0300 or at least multiple cylinders. The more i play with it the more im leaning towards the pcm sensing something and going into limp rather than mechanical problem.

Does this car have a pressure sensor for the mil if it gets low fuel pressure? I have been leaning towards fuel pressure or cat converter since it idles fine, just bucks when try to drive it. Had a wierd misfire/stumble last yr because plugs were going out, of course wife didnt say anything for a month or so, thinking that may contribute to fouling the cat.