weasey31

 thanks for the confirmation guys!

Yeah I took a 13mm wrench on it to loosen it. once i cracked it loose I knew that it should  unscrew with just the fingers but for some reason it was still hard. i had to wrench it all the way to get it out. that's when I saw the threads coming out on the plug and were broken. 

changed the oil yesterday. when i removed the drain plug i found metal thread reminents on the plug.  the drain pan threads must have gotten stripped.  the shards were not magnetic. does anybody know if the pan is aluminum?? 

found it, in the "accessories" of all places by tmajoros dates march 2013

have 2009 R/T with remote start-

had the same issue with remote start turning on then off after 5 seconds. will not turn back on using the FOB buttons on repress. At the time, the battery was giving problems starting the vehicle in the mornings.

changed the battery (original 2009) to a new one.  the problem went away, however it did it a few days later.  i learned that problem will still be present if the battery voltage goes low. I never bothered charging the new battery. just swapped it and drove.  i had to throw trickle charger on battery to peak it.   remote has worked every time. 

never had an issue with remote start....this winter after having battery woes, remote start would shut off after activated. I put a new battery in and it does the same thing.

after using the remote start by pressing the button two times on the FOB the DJ will start, then after 5 seconds it shuts off. this is most discouraging when it's cold outside. 

the FOB will no longer work to start. you have to manually walk out in the cold and insert it.

can't figure out why. I do see a coincidence -this occurs when the12v  battery may not be fully charged. 

I got the same situation this week. Throwing P0562 after multiple jump starts. My battery is original 2009. The Web lookup for this code leans more toward alternator trouble. They say dead battery is misdiagnosis.  Funny thing is, the "battery" icon doesn't even light up on the dash. Its always the MIL light.  My charge voltage is 14V when DJ started. The alternator light never comes on.  I too, thinks it's all battery. 

On Monday, December 28, 2015 at 11:20 PM, ckl said:

Since my dipstick broke near the top, I was able to get it out by drilling a small pilot hole and then put a small screw in there and then pulling that out. the trick is to do it while the engine is hot since that is when it is the most "stuck" and you will have no worry of accidentally pushing the dipstick further down the tube. Then after you put the screw in, you wait until the engine cools down. Then pull on the screw and the dipstick will come out easy. It is important not to drill all the way through to the other side as there is a possibility of getting plastic bits into the engine oil. You just need to drill enough so that the screw threads catch onto the plastic.

When I put in the new dipstick, I was surprised at how much more "loose" it was when pushed all the way in. I haven't done this yet, but I bet that it would have no problem being pulled out when the engine is hot... maybe they changed the diameter of the plastic due to all the broken dipsticks.

Mine did the same thing!!! I thought I was the only one. Ordered a new one on ebay.  Glad to know it's the DJ and not us! Stupid car

What kind of fitting is the fuel test port on the fuel rail?  Is it metric or sae? Need to remove fuel rail to replace injector

What about the supplement Warranty? I wanna know more about it. Does it give the second owner additional coverage?

On Thursday, August 14, 2014 at 10:19 AM, oneframe said:

Hi,

Wondering if anyone else with a 2010 Dodge Journey 3.5L engine model is having similar engine lashing / ticking sounds?

I saw a TSB in another forum for similar 3.5L engine used in previous Dodge vehicles and up to 2009 Dodge Journey and this was supposed to have been addressed by then.

However it is still occurring in my engine so it appears either my engine hasn't been addressed with the updated parts or the updated parts do not last as well and causing the same ticking /.lashing noise of the lifters.

Took it to the dealer a second time after it was making the same loud noise and the technician simply said to the service advisor it's the engine TSB.

So he ordered the parts and my car is in to be fixed. Don't know how many days it will be and they have no loaner. Yikes.

Anyone else with similar issue and had a fix with the dealer? I only have a 5-year powertrain warranty being in Canada so time is running out.

I have the same noise, I noticed when I bought it used 2 years ago.  I always thought that it would bring me great trouble in the future.  Today I am getting P0305 misfires....

Heard these engines have a common problem with 3.5L V6 engine rocker/valve held in with dowel pin that loosens up...causes the ticking sound

On Thursday, September 11, 2014 at 2:33 PM, Journeyowner2009 said:

Hi

I own a 2009 Journey and I have been having starting issues for some time now. Usually when it won't start I move the shifter back and forth back to Park and then the car starts right up, not sure what that is and I have also taken my Journey to the dealer and they can never find anything wrong with it. Sometimes in hot weather seems to happen more often.

Same thing for us. First it was recall on the win module ( fob keys), then it was The neutral safety switch.

Have to go through neutral and pack to park again if it didn't start. 

I experienced this after car failed to start one morning. After I jumpstarted it, the DJ ran in Limp mode or limited power reserve mode.  The traction control idiot light was on.  Would speed up pass 10 mph.  Couldnt figure what was happening.  After driving it directly to dealer thinking it was $$$$ problem, i restarted the engine. Problem solved! You have to turn off and restart again.  There's really no information about this limp mode out there...

The basic tuneup is a great place to start.  But expect the worse...internal mechanical problem...heard for 3.5L 6 cyl engines that the rocker arm/ valve can cause misfires!!

http://workshop-manuals.com/dodge/ is a great source!!!

Do as journeyman says...

Cyliner misfire 3.5L V6?  Try Seafoam, spark plugs, swap coil packs, swap or replace injector. If they don't help do compression check...(internal valve problem)

I am doing the same process.  I replaced spark plugs and get the same P0305 code still... 

I expecting the worse with a valve problem...

On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 9:20 PM, Sprskte said:

I hope it works for you.. but the rocker arm and the valves separate in these engines. Very common issue. I had to rebuild the head.

What's all involved to repair the head? Did you do the work yourself?  

Did you take off the lower intake valve on the rear v block to expose the rocker arm?

Wow, the P0305 reoccured again. It's not the coil pack.   In the morning I drive 40 minutes to work. The engine ran without a misfire. The car sits at work for 8 hours and I drive home again for 40 minutes. No misfires.   Once home i take another second 5 minute trip to Lowes. Now i get the P0305 misfire. The engine shudders.

how does it know this?...the misfires happen on the second trip. This is exactly when the misfire occurred last week before I changed the spark plugs.  

On Wednesday, September 07, 2016 at 9:22 PM, Sprskte said:

About a week ago my wife's car (2010 journey FWD 3.5 V6) set DTC P0350 Cylinder 5 misfire. I tried the simple fix, the coil pack and the spark plug. This did nothing. So now that taking off the intake manifold is easy, I have tried a few other things. 

 

Things I have attempted for repair:

-coil pack

-plug

-sea foam engine treatment through vacuum line

-sea foam top engine cleaner through throttle body

-mopar combustion chamber cleaner through throttle body

 

so far no success with this!!

 

So today I did a compression test cylinder 5 was 60-70psi the others was 190psi. Alldata states minimum of 100 psi and all cylinders within 25% of each other.

 

After more research I think it could be one of these issues:

 

-excessive carbon build up on valves.

 

-bad rocker arm

 

And repair options of:

 

- replace valve spring retainer locks with new ones (part 53022277AA) this is supposed to spin the valves quicker to prevent carbon build.

 

- new rocker arm because low compression can be a sticky valve

 

-replace or rebuild cylinder head

 

 

Has anyone had and experience with this issue? Any recommendations?

 

Thank You for your time!!

I just had P0305 code and engine shudder around 1500 rpm. I replaced all spark plugs today (mileage is 105,000). Hope that fixes it. Also swap coil packs from #5 to the front. This way if you get a different Pcode then it is a bad coil Pack.

On Monday, February 15, 2016 at 9:46 PM, kanerdanger said:

So according to 2 certified mechanics, I have failing and failed freeze plugs, that resulted in a pool of coolant on my garage floor, and I have to pull the motor and trans apart to replace the freeze plugs. My plan of attack is drop the motor instead of cherry picking it. Anybody out there with this experience or tips and tricks to avoid extra time on the awd system?

Should I evacuate the A/C system? Is there a work around for this?

Pull it or drop it?

Also while I am in there should I replace any other time sensitive parts besides simple belts and such?

Thanks for reading!

We had the same problem. 2 of 6 plugs failed. Replace the timing belt while your there (recommended @100,000k miles) and inspect the water pump for leaks.

On Thursday, December 08, 2016 at 9:16 PM, Shannix11 said:

Hello, 

I purchased a used 2009 Dodge Journey in March with only 93,000 miles on it and it really seemed to work great!!  Love how it drives, although the cooling isn't all that great...but maybe that is an issue or just the way it is.  

 

At any rate, about a month ago after a trip into the City, about 40 miles I noticed the the distinct smell of overheating, the burning of antifreeze on a hot ..but I couldn't see anything wrong at all...and no smoke/steam or anything.

 

This happened a few times, but nothing major and the coolant only seemed to be down a bit so topped it off.  

 

This past Sunday my husband came home from work and the area around the radiator was steaming like crazy, it really smelled bad of antifreeze and it was almost empty, so my husband topped it off and about an hour later checked to make sure there wasn't any leaking on the ground, and there wasn't, so we went to the movies...about 5 mile drive, it was cold so the heater was on, but only cold air for the first 5 minutes (odd it usually kicks in within 60 seconds), then it slowly got hot...again when we parked it was steaming and smelled bad, but no leaking.

 

My husband picked up some more antifreeze and it was low again so he filled it up.  Next morning we dropped it at the Dodge Dealership near us.

 

Mechanic calls later that day and says it's the freeze plugs and it's 10 hrs labor...$1500.  I have insurance for major issues, but these are not covered...but said of course go ahead.

 

Got a call today that they discovered that the radiator is cracked and needs to be replaced...after asking if we saw fluid on the ground or if we were overheating at all...which we were not according to the internal sensors.  So now we have to wait for the inspector to come by to approve the repair.

 

My question is this...would the freeze plugs have ruptured (not sure if that is exactly the right term) because of the cracked radiator, or would the cracked radiator be a result of the ruptured freeze plugs?

 

I ask because the whole repair will be covered by the insurance if the cracked radiator caused the freeze plug problem.

 

Thanks

Shannix11

We had the same thing happen to us. We bought a 2009 used DJ with 50,000 miles. We purchased an ethos service Warranty from the dealer we got it at to protect us for engine problems.  They would not cover it!

It cost us 2500.00. They found 1 freeze plug broken and another one was leaking. So 2 of 6 plugs were replaced.  It was only the feeze plug failures nothing else caused it or was harmed.  It was a big blow to our pockets and peace of mind. 

Ok, Thanks jkeaton

On 7/25/2012 at 8:27 PM, silentdan said:

I plasti diped the chrome part of the dash and it looks much better.Now I removed the whole grille and than removed the chrome piece of the grille with the dodge logo and i am spraying that now.It looks good.

here is the pics to the dash I plasti diped.The pictures dont show really how good it looks cause of some dust thats there but once cleaned it looks awesome.

Here is the car with the grill sprayed with plasti dip.

Resend those pictures. The links are dead. Or upload them to your account.  I wanna see them!

I got mine from eBay. Matches perfectly. 

3 hours ago, Camper said:

 

 

 Are you saying you experienced the limited engine power mode @ 4000rpm and not a revolution over?  

6 hours ago, bigtsr said:

How old is your DJs battery?

I have to check. Good question. It's cold out  and the battery is  hidden in the fender so I'm not in any hurry to check it. I will check soon though and report back