Hawaii

If it aint broke, dont fix it....

and..... if it aint broke, dont break it.

There is a nail or screw in your tire.

My opinion is that Dodge has not stepped up and accept that there's been major issues with the newer Journeys. Unfortunately, maybe due to lack of owners complaining and are accepting the issues may be the cause of no TSBs for our Dodge Journeys. I agree with your statement, it seems it's the poor quality of the brakes themselves that is causing all this grief amongst DJ owners. I'm keeping all my service documents and continue to report all my brake services to Dodge Customer Care to ensure appropriate reporting is done and also maybe my efforts will turn someone's light bulb at HQ and confirm they have a problem!

Who is sevicing your cars?

I just bought a 2013 DJ with a 6 cylander. My wife drove 250 miles with the stability control on and got 23 mpg. i filled the tank and drove 250 miles with the stability control off and got 29 mpg. the vehicle drove just fine without the stability control on.

Im speechless.... never heard of this. Interesting. Anyone else???

NOOOO!! Dont take it to the dealer they will charge you to read the code (unless covered by warranty, then OK). You got places like Advance auto or Autozone there that reads codes for free?? Also, the code will not "roll off the computer" once it is set, it stays there and can only be cleared by a code scanner. Unless you disconnect the battery.

LOL... !! You know it.

That doesnt sound like an alternator bearing.....more like a dry motor, have you checked oil level???

My 2013 with the Smokin" Hot 2.4 Litre Missisle of an engine is showing 11.4L/100kms. Thats in the freezing cold temperatures we have been having.

Yes, I would use a different fluid in the ps pump. Many different brands of high end synthetic stuff.

I have used Lucas power steering fluid on my old Sebring, made a huge difference. I am a fan of Lucas products and have used their oil supplements for a long time.

Got something to do with the air being more dense, thus needing more fuel to maintain the 15:1 combustion ratio. I'm not a scientist, could be wrong, but thats just my common sense. And I'm an aspiring poet.

Got something to do with the air being more dense, thus needing more fuel to maintain the 15:1 combustion ratio. I'm not a scientist, could be wrong, but thats just my common sense. And I'm an aspiring poet.

You're a poet and you didn't even know it.

I did not suggest anywhere in my response that it would be costly. I simply answered the OP's question, which was "And will it be costly". Without more detail no one has any idea speculating any cost associated with a repair, if it is necessary and not covered by warranty. Read the entire first post.

Just to clarify, what I deem to be very important, this would be a no charge warranty repair, regardless. I did read the complete post, the person posting this seems unsure of the new car warranty policy. If you pose that same question to some dealers they make come up with some creative billing. There are no further details required regarding the price of a potential repair to this guys A/C system.

I notice the past few months that from the usual 34 MPG showing on my dash board it now shows around 27-29 MPG only.

I just had a full tank refill yesterday around 73 liters and it shows only 464 average miles from the usual 500+ something?

Anybody here experience the same thing?

I notice the past few months that from the usual 34 MPG showing on my dash board it now shows around 27-29 MPG only.

I just had a full tank refill yesterday around 73 liters and it shows only 464 average miles from the usual 500+ something?

Anybody here experience the same thing?

I am experiencing the same thing. I am sure the extremely cold temperatures affect gas mileage, regardless of make or model.

Welcome to the forum. First off, try to isolate where the sound is coming from. Engine? Under the dash? Under the seats? Where is the vent position set? Dash vents, floor, defrost? Is it dependant on blower setting? Does it make the sound moving? Sitting still? All the time? It's kinda hard to tell you if it will be costly without a little more detail.

How could you even suggest there is a charge for this repair when the vehicle is a few months old??

From what I was told, the "quick learn" flash relearns the drivers driving habits and shifts appropriately to their habits. Unfortunately mine is either an internal fault or needs new mounts, retighten them...

Did you read the other thread about this problem??

I have a 2013 Model and the Dealer said it was normal, I had over 50 cars in my lifetime and all used and Now that I Own a New one it has Normal Clonking, slipping and high acceleration shifting problems after 1 and 1/2 Months, but it's all Normal according to the Dealer

What engine and transmission are in your journey?

Your vehicle must have been built on a Monday. My Kuhmos have about 40,000 km on them and work just fine in the snow - and we get quite a bit where I drive - and I ski every week-end, driving 100 miles north and back, often twice a week.

My jurisdiction requires that we switch to snow tires - I wait for the last possible day (December 16) because in my opinion snow tires compensate to a large degree for drivers who may not be as competent as they ought to be - My vehicles have often been called to pull 'well equipped' vehicles from situations - and this without snow tires.

I often recount the story about something that happened with my ex-sister-in-law at their country house, which was situated at the bottom of a hill;

Where the house is there are often foot-deep winter snowfalls - and one particular day my ex sister-in-law went to take my van (then a GM Montana) which had all-season tires and she got stuck halfway up the hill - she came in fuming that I was ruining her day and all because we hadn't put snow tires on the vehicle. My EX agreed and started chastising me too, so to restore the peace I went out, drove the van up the hill (take note!!), took it to a nearby tire shop and spent $1200 on a set of 4 snow tires, brought the van back and at the end of the day it wound up at the head of the line.

The next morning, she decided to go into town to get fresh bread from the local artisan bakery and . . . . she got stuck at the same spot and came in again berating me for not having snow tires . . . . and was very sheepish when I pointed out that I had put fresh winter-grade rubber on the vehicle the day before and that beyond this, that I had no problems driving the van up the hill after she came in - and in fact went out and did just that again for her.

Beyond that, if you are driving down the highway during a snow storm and decide to take stock of what style of vehicle is most likely to be sitting in the ditch, it seems to me to be AWD vehicles, most often SUvs.

My mantra these days is that "it isn't the tires, but most often the driver".

Having said that, if you live in the snow belt or plan to drive in snow, having proper snow tires is a reasonable concept - they DO make a bit of difference because their formulations are designed to stay flexible' at lower temperatures 'stick' better and to cut through snow. Since the Kuhmos are quite soft going in, I've found them to work quite well in uncleared snowfalls that wouldn't be considered fierce blizzard conditions..

And bless the lord you finally dont have to deal with these crazy women anymore.

Make sure oil filter is not leaking, especially if its after market, which you shouldn't be using.

Hawaii, did your clicking sound occur at the same way mine is? With it occurring usually when you take your foot off the accelerator or when you put it back on the accelerator?

Absolutely, more pronounced at low speeds. Tap acceleratotor or let off and it would happen every time. But again, no slipping or other problems.

I have a 2013 4cyl. 4 speed . Some a##hole in a parking lot hit while i was parked and without engine running. A click noise started immediately, although no slipping. Dealer said it was "normal". This is pure bull. Problem was a tranny mount that had to be adjusted. Dont fall for that excuse they are giving you. Ask the guy at the dealer if it was his vehicle, what it still be considered" normal".

Hope this helps.

Merry Xmas

Remember Grade 5..... Condensation..................................................................................................................................................................................

I'm not saying you're right or wrong, just out of curiosity......Why????? The level of lubrication is lowered, thus increasing friction, thus lowering fuel mileage.

Terry

The oil is distributed through the engine via the oil pump. As long as you are in the cross-hatches on the dip stick, there is absolutely no connection between the two. The engine could not suffer oil starvation by being down one quart.

Being 1 quart short of oil should have absolutely no bearing on the fuel consumption.

Interesting,

on Fords they are separate components, ive changed a couple.

Thank-you

Hello,

It is rarely the actual EGR valve that fails, more often, it is the EGR SENSOR.

My 13 Crew with 11900 miles on it has been making a metal on metal clunk when shifting from Park to reverse or to drive or from reverse to drive and it has been getting worse.

It didn't do it when it was new so I knew there had to be something going wrong

Today it was quite bad so I took it to a dealer and when the service person came out to listen it did it for him also!!!

So they put it up on the hoist and the problem from the factory was the "bolts" on the transmission hub were not properly torqued and had worked loose to the point where the hub was moving and causing the clunk.

They torqued the bolts to spec and the noise and problem have been corrected

So this might be something to look at if you are getting that kind noise

Interesting..... I have a 2013 with the 4 speed tranny with same symptoms. They said it was the mounts that were loose... Anyway, noise is gone.

So yesterday I was turning left out of my area and it was icy and just as I was straightening out and put abit of gas into it I started to slide and slammed into the curb with my rear passenger wheel. I was doing between 10km/h - 15km/h. At first this is all I could see wrong aswell as the wheel slightly angled into the car. well also the rim was all scratched up....

I have a 2013 R/T AWD

I was told this could be the Rear Toe Link or Lower Control Arm

And now I just got this picture once the dealer got it up on the lift and I was told this is the Rear K Frame and its F-ed up bad....

I have had friends and family that did the same as me and never had issues like this also most hit harder than I did. Most of the time is just a scratched/gouged rim or messed up rubber. Is this normal? I honestly don't feel safe if this much stuff broke from a small hit to a curb like this......

This is bordering on hysterical comedy....

Sorry, had to say it