MartyZ1

Hey all which fuse under the hood (no pass side box on 2010) controls the remote unlock/lock feature?

My fix for the phantom draw is a 6a/1a charger maintainer mounted on top of the motor by the jump points. Hooked into the block heater cord and the two chargeing clamps onto the jump points. Starts consistantly now.

I installed a 6a/1a charger maintainer under the hood on my 2010 base 2.4. Hooked it to the block heater plug, clipped the leads to the top battery jump points. I also have a couple of digital voltage meters that plug into the cabin's "on" 12v plug to monitor. Fought with it last winter until I installed the larger charger instead of little maintainer I had used and it starts everytime now. And this winter is real cold in the Northeast. See if theres a 120 v plug under your hood on drivers side, if not just run it.

I bought a "fits your vehicle" oil filter from oreilly and it didnt seat and oil poured out when I started it. I got a MOPAR M0 - 339 from rock a and it fit fine and sealed. Mine is a 2010 2.4l base with 177k miles. Have to replace the water pump soon its singing its death song.

I actually had to put the gasket back in the old filter and reuse it as the DJ was blocking my car from getting out of the garage. C230. Thanks for the answers I think I will get the dealer 4892339AA as the wix one I already used and it dont work. This thing can be a money pit TFS!

Ok this seems too dumb for me to actually ask here BUT I need to know what oil filter will work with this motor the 2.4. Got a WIX one that was specified but it puked oil all over as it was too short to seat on the gasket, I put the old one back on and its leaking ( or the adapter is leaking). MOPAR site says the 04892339AB or AA is the ONLY filter to use so whats the verdict here? Only car I've ever had a problem with this issue and I've had dozens. Ty all

Milliamps would be the value if I went as far as disconnecting the positive cable and did the test like that but I had the trickle charger and voltmeter on it and just decided to pull fuses and found the M13. You cant search this forum I wish I had seen that post before. I left that fuse out and the voltage was 12.53 this am. Running the cutoff switch when I get it from Amazon

Alternator shows 14.6 for the first 4 hours or so of driving then goes to 13. After 2 days sitting without charging didnt start. M13 fuse is pulled as a test tonight.

Now thinking about installing one of these with a 20a fuse in the circuit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VL549KJ/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A2P6NQ66D5K6F0&psc=1

So I was watching the voltage of the system on my multimeter and pulling fuses and when I pulled M13 fuse voltage which was 12.44 went up to 12.56 and going. The designations are IOD-CCN WCM, SIREN, CLK, MOD, MULTIFCN SW. I am thinking now of putting in a cabin mount microswitch that will toggle the circuit off when I park it. No other fuses affected the voltage. Pre-parasitic draw test. And I have the cabin lights set to off on the switch.

Glove box light is an led now. There isnt a fuse box in the passenger forward area in this car.

Looking for the location of the keyless entry module in the 2010 DJ base. My 94 grand caravan was having parasitic draw issues and when I removed this module it fixed it. This may be the issue with the DJ also as it goes to 11.3 volts and doesnt start unless the block heater and trickle charger are on. I want to test the modules' wiring for bad ground issues as part of going over all grounds in the car. Ty

Advance said they couldnt test the alternator but its on the list for spring. I just checked the ground strap on the end of the exhaust to the hanger stud it was completely rusted cleaned it off and put it back on checked the connection. It just clips onto the shafts what a wonky set up.

The battery is 2 years old. I havent got to it to clean it yet. This car came from the west coast and there isnt very much corrosion. I think that the battery is fine and there is something that contracts just a bit when its freezing that doesnt allow the full charge to go into the system.

On my 2010 DJ base 2.4 176k I have determined that when the outside temperature is below freezing the car will show 11.8 volts or below on my digital 12v socket plug in volt gauge and not start. As soon as I activate the block heater and trickle charger that I have installed under the hood it will start. I am going to rewire all the grounds under the hood as they are grounded to the firewall but not with decent wire gauges. There is a ground on the back exhaust pipe to the pipe hanger that I havent got to yet either, but I put a decent sized ground strap from the negative jump point to the engine. Any suggestions as to what components are affected by temperature that would cause this condition to happen? Havent got to alternator/engine block yet to clean connections, but it puts out 14.6 after it starts. It did go down to 13.6 after I ran it for a few hours.

I'm looking to install an oil pressure gauge in my 2010 2.4. Either a port location for drill and tap or an electronic one using the existing sensor. Any info appreciated.

It isnt the wide connector its more a 7 or 8 pin stacked maybe an inch by 3/4 or so.

My 94 probably has parts that are in the 2010. Just like there are parts in my 97 C230 that are in brand new mercedes. Maybe.

Mines a 2010 lol

I cannot find another fuse box under the glovebox. Mine is a base model so maybe no bells or whistles that would require it. Turned the stereo and the heating sys off when parking so I will see if it starts tomorrow.

Nice vid I dont even know if there is more than one fusebox in mine there wasnt one under the glovebox when I replace the actuator. Not going to replace the stereo just yet the Merc has the system and the radio gets good reception, I dont want to play with it in the cold. And if there were significant amp draw the trickle charger charge on light would never go completely out I think. When i use the keyfob to unlock the light goes on and then within a minute its out, indicating full charge. And on it goes! Ty

So what do you think the issue really is?

Until I can get a good manual for this vehicle I just follow my instincts as I have generally been right. Cleaning the contact surfaces on the alt itself could be shocking and I have a pacemaker and defibrillator implant that doesnt like high amperage. If you have to replace a battery after a year then the charging system must be gone through to determine why.....the vehicle that this replaced is a 1994 Grand Caravan AWD that I had to remove the remote entry module as it was a parasite. I replaced almost everything in the 12 years I had it. The gas lines off the in tank fuel pump are shot now though and I'm 64 and the garage wont touch it. So its waiting for spring in my yard and I will drop ther tank then......maybe. $500 buys it though!

Replacing an alternator with 175k on it is maintenance considering there are electrical system issues.

Had the battery tested at Advance they said it was down so I put the trickle charger on it through the dash lighter and light on charger was out in half an hour. Car started fine but when I was checking headlight aim with car off it would not start even though I had been running it around. Battery had been replaced last year according to previous owner. The plug in voltmeter shows the voltage going up slow when started, alts that I have replaced show immediate 14.5 v or so instant. Alt has 175k on it my Mercedes went to 200k before it was showing signs. Ordered a new alt, tensioner, idler pulleys and belt. I think that should fix it until a new gremlin pops up. Getting to cleaning all wiring connections too, and a new block ground wire.