I have broken my own personal record as far as battery life. It on,y lasted 1 1/2 year. I use it less than before and it froze and swelled a bit, probably cause of to much sitting around in -20C. I took it in to get my starter tested and first thing mechanic checked was the battery, of course. BUT, I haven't given up the idea of getting  the starter tested cause I suspect it's drawing to much power at startup.

Can't watch video.

11 hours ago, John/Horace said:

And with chip shortages , not even available. Other car companies having similar issues. ABS is nice to have in the snow and ice weather. Doesn’t help you stop, but keeps you in control more.

I'll say, sure makes a difference

18 hours ago, 2late4u said:

so it was a wheel speed sensor,, be thankful it wasnt your abs modual going bad that is some$$$$

No kidding !

Problem solved. Found honest general mechanic garage, detected front left sensor, changed it and problem disappeared.

9 hours ago, 2late4u said:

when i found out mine was the abs brake module internal fault ,my step son used his harbor freight code reader cost him around $120 for it. he likes this unit fairly good............

+1More

See how this BEATS the competition

ZURICH 

ZR13s OBD2 Code Reader with ABS/SRS/FIXASSIST

I'll check this one out, thanks.

10 hours ago, John/Horace said:

It’s the same with a lot of the nanny safety systems. Imbed it in the cars controls so you have to fix it.

I think any check engine light what so ever and cruise control is disabled.

 

There is also a relay under hood in main panel for abs. But fuse and/or relay to disable and it’s probably same result, no cruise and idiot light on dash. 2late4u had his disabled by the dealership. They would know the better way so car is driveable and not in limp mode. But if disabled, there will always be a light.

Good to know, thanks

13 hours ago, Neto said:

Get ready, people are probably going to jump down your back about wanting to disable the ABS.  I myself am inclined to agree that it sometimes does more damage than helps.  But maybe only if you learned to drive before they started putting that corruption on cars.  (At the intersection where our street enters the next larger street, it is a steep descent down to the stop sign.  They also rarely clear the snow & ice away out of the right side of the lane, and so the right tires are on snow or ice, while the left tires are on mostly dry pavement.  What I've experienced is that under these conditions, the ABS prevents me from easily stopping the car there, because it continually disengages the brakes on the left side, the tires on which I am depending to be able to stop.  I learned to drive way before ABS, and I can do better than this automatic system in knowing how much brake to use, and when to let off for a bit to regain traction.)

 

But sorry that I do not know the answer to your question, for this vehicle.  I had an off-brand (non-MoPar) PU that I pulled the ABS fuse, and it disabled the cruise as well.  In my case, I didn't need that anyway, because we live in the country, and in a county with mostly narrow, curvey dirt roads that go up & down steep hills.  So not a place for cruise.

 I started to drive in the snow in the early 70s in the mountains and I still remember how to drive without the ABS system. Piss_s me off to see car company taking advantage of such a costly system to fix when it breaks down. More hassle than anything else for us . I would even go as far as qualifying this ABS system as pretty stupid when one of its components fails. At least if the cruise control could still work when the ABS light goes on. Anyhow, I am up to a point now where it's either disabling it or getting it fixed . My scanner won't explain  me any ABS code and appropriate scanner sure ain't cheap.

Finally changed the wire clamp to fit new post. Journey is running well now, no issue. Thanks to all

Do I just have to remove the big ABS fuse in order to disable the ABS system and its never ending costly repairs ? If I do so, will the d_mn ABS light finally  go off ?

Tell you what, when you run across this problem you'll see what I mean, because you will. Nowadays, nothing seems to work the way it did. Do some research on the subject and you'll see it happened to others before. They wouldn't sell terminal lead shims if it never happened. Aluminum is a goo conductor and the clamp is tight and solid. I don't see any problems with that. I will post any problem if I ever get one.

Unfortunately, more and more new batteries have smaller terminals ehich is probably why they are selling shims to acvomodate this new problem. Copper or aluminum tape are both good conductors and maybe used without problems as long as the clamp is tight after tightening it.

I did try to turn it and it didn't move. Battery was the right group but for some reason, negative terminal was a tiny bit smaller, keeping the clamp from closing tight on it. Then, I found that shims exist for that. You wouldn't hear about too small battery terminals before. Does it mean, they are made in countries where different size terminals are made ? Maybe.

John/Horace,

 Couldn't  find any better explanation. It wasn't AGM and I had a hell of a hard time to put the new one in. I am on crutches, managed to do the job on a small bench. Negative battery terminal of the new battery was to small for the original post clamp ! I had to shim the terminal in order to make it fit. Changed lots of batteries in the past and never ran into this problem before.

thanks,

danyboy

2late4u,

 thanks for the tip, you made my day.

 Just changed battery in my 2012 SXT3.6L, which is in the driver's side fender. Bought at some tire and battery shop and never paid attention at number of amps and never looked at the battery before installation. Does this model Journey require a reprogramming of some sort when you change battery to tell the computer how much the alternator should charge like some newer models do ?