Howitzer
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Posts posted by Howitzer
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1 hour ago, 2late4u said:
nope no idea here , But you might want to disconnect the battery cables up top and leave them off for 15 minutes or so then reconnect,,kinda like rebooting your computer,,good luck let us know if it helps
I started it up this afternoon and it appears to be functioning correctly. Does it have to learn/calibrate itself after a power disruption?
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2012 Dodge Journey R/T 3.6 L AWD
I have just replaced both the battery and alternator, now I can't seem to switch heater air flow from defrost to dash vents to floor vents. I only get defrost (windshield) air flow... what's going on here? Hitting the mode selection does nothing, I just get defrost mode, nothing else.
Any ideas what's the issue here?
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On 2019-08-30 at 8:12 PM, OhareFred said:
I must admit, I am stumped.
I would have the battery checked, then the cables. My first thought was a loose connection.
check under the under hood power distribution box. They have been reported to corroded....
How would you do so?
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21 hours ago, John/Horace said:
If the alt has over a 100k , change it. It may have to run a bit and heat up before the rectifier bridge or capacitors start to act up.
Mine would put out power for 5 mins before it stopped putting out enough power to run vehicle. Mechanical parts like bearings etc are also worn. If battery has less than 300 cranking amps, change that too. It’s on the way out. Towing is not cheap.
I bought both a new battery and alternator. I'm going to put in the new battery first to see if charging by the old alternator resumes. If the old alternator doesn't charge, I'm thinking I might install the new alternator as well. Crappy thing is I could install $400 in parts and not fix anything. What to do... I did charge the old battery for about 6 hours maybe it will recover.
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On 2022-02-12 at 9:00 AM, Brother_Dave said:
You’d think that by now I’d have a “final verdict” right? Sadly, this is not the case. We’re (my mechanic and myself) 99.99% sure the problem is in the ABS. The issue with that is, last I checked, they we’re on back order until at least April.
I can’t say it was “resolved” exactly because I live in fear of it going out again. But, try disconnecting your ABS, tapping it (my mechanic’s words, I guess that means lightly hit it), and reconnecting it.I'm having the same issue too... any resolution?
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My 2012 Dodge Journey R/T 3.6L is having charging issues and has about 11 volts measured at the alternator "B" post. The local parts store measured the alternator as not charging very well. I removed the alternator and took it to another alternator shop, they say the alternator measured 14.4v on the bench test. I'm not sure what to do. The parts store measured the battery and said it is good but needs a charge.
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On 6/13/2021 at 10:50 AM, Locosiete said:
You don't have to change all 4 unless all 4 need replaced. If possible jack up front and rear on jack stands and have someone put in gear and slowly accelerate and slowly brake to see if you can recreate the sound. This way you can walk around to see where noise is coming from. Otherwise you run the risk of replacing many parts unnecessary, i just chalk it up as preventative maintenance when i have lol, it can get expensive and still not resolve your problem.
Otherwise what i do when i am stumped or think it's beyond my level of knowledge is go to a shop and let them put it up on their lift to see if they can confirm what it is. If their quote is fair i will let them do it Otherwise i just have them rotate tires or change oil. No point in wasting their time since they need to make money. That way i am not that guy that just comes in and wastes their time.
I called a mechanic I know and he says his shop would run the wheels in gear while the vehicle is up on the hoist. They put their hand on the coil spring of each front wheel to test for vibration. He said I could put the vehicle on four jacks stands and do the same thing. He says that a long handled screwdriver put on the hub (handle to the ear) will find the bad wheel bearing (while running in gear at slow speed).
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1 hour ago, probak118 said:
Howitzer,
My 2012 SXT FWD with 127,000 kms did not have any play in the wheels, but had low volume howl, and no noticeable temperature difference. Perhaps just not at that point yet to feel play in hub bearing when when performing the 3 and 9 test. Changing both front bearings solved issue, then could hear slight rear noise …..changed both those too; no more noises LOL
Our Journey is AWD so it will differ somewhat in wheel bearings from the FWD. I sure hope I don't have to change out all four wheel bearings.
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4 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:
I will climb out on the proverbial limb and take a stab at guesstimating that it could be a bent brake dust shield. Easy enough to check if you have a jack and stands to remove the wheel.
We have open spoked rims so I might be able to see the brake dust shield, hopefully its an easy fix.
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We jacked up each front wheel and turned the wheels (shifter in neutral) - both wheels seemed to turn the same without any noticeable grinding. When we tried moving each wheel by holding the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock (and at 3 and nine o'clock), we couldn't notice any wear in the wheel hub. So I'm still puzzled where this howling sound is coming from... ???
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12 hours ago, Locosiete said:
Usually when i hear noise like that it's a CV joint. Does it do it more or less when you turn? If not would also lean toward wheel bearing.
Also have you confirmed if noise is same when when in neutral when coasting or decelerating? If it greatly reduces when in neutral then lean towards alternator or pulley bearings. Noise can sometimes be hard to narrow down when you can only hear while moving. Unless you can run like a cheetah ???
The noise appears to be intermittent but it doesn't appear to happen only when turning.
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Yeah I'm thinking it's a bad wheel bearing too...
30 minutes ago, John/Horace said:Is it following engine speed.? Lots of stuff spinning on the awd Journey. Has the front PTU ever had the fluid changed before ?
Brilliant engineering having no dipstick to check level of 75w90 oil. Have to dump it out to confirm level then refill the correct amount, 800 ml I believe. Clean the fur off the magnetic drain plug.it’s most likely a front wheel bearing. But it could also be awd component related. Some Mechanics have vibration monitoring equipment to confirm bad bearings. AWD makes it a bit trickier to do a DIY analysis. Sometimes with wheel off the ground and taking wheel at 9 and 3 o’clock position you can confirm which side has excess play from wear.
Other wise it’s removing awd drive shaft ( after match marking yoke location) then running car with one wheel in the air at a time. The louder spinning wheel in the air will be your bad bearing. Good luck. Careful not to ruff up your abs sensors if you change a wheel bearing.
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Hi!
I have a 2012 Dodge Journey R/T that has a howling noise in what sounds like the front drive train (it is noticeable when decelerating from road speed to slower speeds). The noise reminds me of when as kids we put hockey cards in the spokes of our bikes. Any ideas what it could be? Wheel bearing? Seal?
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12 hours ago, John/Horace said:
Did wrecker part show the correct part number on it.?
No, it was a different number that the seller said will work in my vehicle. It didn't work, I sent it back and they refunded the purchase. Still waiting to be paid for my return shipping (as promised).
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I contacted Motorcity and they asked for my VIN. Wait and see...
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On 3/20/2021 at 6:12 PM, John/Horace said:
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2 hours ago, John/Horace said:
If dealer used vin they would be more accurate. Motor city is $724 for that part plus shipping, so cheaper.
Did wrecker part show the correct part number on it.?
https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/p/49391033/68222278AA.html
Yes, I believe the dealer used the VIN. Funny thing is the 68222278AA number according to motorcity doesn't fit my 2012 Dodge Journey R/T. I wonder if the *******79AA would work just fine, it is a lot cheaper for some reason...
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2 hours ago, John/Horace said:
Is this the same part. These guys are good for Canada, do ship.
I'm puzzled what is the correct part number... the local dealership says its 68222278AA, yet the above website says it's 68222279AA. ???
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On 3/9/2021 at 6:25 PM, Locosiete said:
I'd also make sure no crud on connections. Who knows what it was pulled from. Could have been exposed to elements. That's the gamble buying used online
Yeah I agree it was a gamble.
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On 3/9/2021 at 5:46 AM, probak118 said:
If your sure that is the part needed, perhaps it is not working ? Might need to buy new then, just curious what is new worth, from what I read not an expensive part ?
Yes, very expensive... $900-$1000 new at the dealer.
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On 3/1/2021 at 5:10 AM, probak118 said:
You have nothing to loose by trying...that name sure makes it sound like it is a possibility ? They do the same thing for CO detectors that plug into a wall socket.
I tried it again. The pin is only for aligning in the case.
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3 hours ago, probak118 said:
You have nothing to loose by trying...that name sure makes it sound like it is a possibility ? They do the same thing for CO detectors that plug into a wall socket.
Yeah good point. It's worth a shot before I send it back.
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I bought a used telematics module off eBay (supposedly for my 2012 Dodge Journey), installed it but it didn't rectify my no connection issue. I didn't mount it in place, could this be the reason it still doesn't connect? There is an "integral locating pin" on the mounting case, should I have mounted the module before testing it? I just left it hanging by the connectors while I tested if it connected or not. See item #1 in attached photo. What does this "Intergral Locating Pin" do? Does this pin close a switch or something?
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1 hour ago, OhareFred said:
Is the case metal or plastic? If metal, might be used as a ground. Obviously if plastic it shouldn’t matter...maybe your eBay unit is DOA....
buying a used electrical device online is a crap shoot. I never would myself. Hopefully it has a warranty.
The case is plastic, I'm just wondering if this "integral locating pin" inserts into some type of switch or if it exists just to align up the module in its location. Anyone know the answer to this?
The eBay seller has said ship the alleged DOA module back to him and will supposedly refund my return shipping and original charges.
DJ Mode Actuator Issue, heat flow
in Climate Control
Posted
Well I guess it's working now so all's good.