smfabac

9 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

And like Paul Harvey ... and now the rest of the story!  I have to agree with member larryl. The battery/electrical system can only handle so much drain, time to change your habits.

Probably stupid to charge the phone without the engine running.  But here’s more trouble:  After jumping the car Sunday after the swim meet  I drove a total of 78 miles.  Monday a total of 9 miles. Tuesday total 6 miles.  This morning the car would not start and I had to connect my battery charger.  After two minutes on charge (reading 6 amps and  greater then 75% charged) I hit the start button and it started.  I checked the charging voltage and it reads 14.46 Volts.

The only thing I did on Tuesday after running two short errands was to have the second row doors and rear hatch open while I folded the second row seats down.  This morning before I tried to start the car I unlocked it and recorded my mileage (took a photo on my iPod touch (@09:01), left the hatch open while I loaded tools, suitcases, and other items for a trip to the lake to winterize the cabin. I closed and locked the car by 09:20. At 10:25 I went out to start the car to turn it around and back it up to the trailer. That’s when it just clicked one time and would not start.

nothing was on except the interior lights while the doors/hatch were open.

Even with the short errands on Monday and Tuesday,  the 78 miles driven on Sunday alter the jumpstart should have charged a “good” battery so that it would have started the car today.

3 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

Seems a little soon for another battery to me. But there again as to maint/care/temp conditions/whatever else is on(uconnect/ other electronics). I take it you don't do much of the "nasty" maint work, but how clean are the battery posts and terminal ends?

You're right about not doing "nasty" maint work.  The damn battery is  located somewhere behind the left headlamp and needs to have the wheel liner removed to access it.  So I have no idea what the terminals look like.  The car started ok the week before when it sat for five days in the airport parking lot. 

3 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

Do you leave a phone connected(that draws power) ? The audio on these draws more than you'd think what with all that's turned on to play the radio on Acc. This ain't the '70's car systems anymore.

Yeah,  I did not mention that I had my phone ( Kyocera DuraXV Extreme) plugged into the 12V socket in the center console (with a high power 12V to USB converter) for the whole time I was in the car.  No telling how much current that draws. 

3 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

BUT due to it not cranking up as you post, ,YEAH if MINE I'd get a new battery, (BUT NOT FROM A DEALER).

2 hours ago, John/Horace said:

If you pay $55 for battery report. It should state cranking amp capacity of battery from a load test. When compared to a new battery spec  it gives you an idea of wear on battery. Two years is not old for a battery IMO. But if abused and run flat multiple times, it could have lost capacity.

Thanks John,

Unfortunately,  the dealer did not provide the "battery report" (or if did the cashier did not give it to me)  The ticket says:

2 hours ago, John/Horace said:

Amp on radio draws a lot of power. Just use a rechargeable blue tooth speaker if you sit in car for long periods.

AGM style battery recharge quicker and can sit without losing charge as much, without load. . More money but worth considering.

 

If you are a car owner, having a battery charger is often useful.

 

 

Thanks for the response.    So do you think it would be advisable to replace the battery now before cold weather sets in?   One hour on  just listening to the radio seems to be too short to accept. " I'd suggest starting it up and letting it run for a while about mid cycle of your listening "pleasure times"."  30 minutes engine off/5 minutes engine on (35 minutes per cycle)?  Or just start the car and let it run for five minutes when the "accessory" position times out? 

How long should the radio play with the engine off before it drains the battery too low to start the car? 

I've checked the posts in Electrical Battery Charging but none cover my question.  I've a 2013 Journey Crew and have replaced the original battery April 2019 at my local Dodge dealer. The service record says they put in BB086525AB (should be a match for the original battery  BAB: 160 Amp Alternator;  BCP: 525 Amp Maintenance Free Battery;), I paid the dealer $55 6/21/21 to 
"test and charge" the battery. They report that it looks good and the sticker on the battery indicates 3yr warranty. 

My concern started when I was working in the yard and had the hatch open (interior lights on) and played the radio for three hours. When I tried to start the car the battery was too low to start (radio still played).  I charged the battery until I was able to start the car and then the next week took it to the Dealer for the "test" on 6/21/21.  No other problem until  10/15/21 when I sat in the car and played the radio with the engine off (doors closed, 10:00 am, accessory mode, no lights on) for less then one hour.   The accessory position turns off the radio after some time (I've never timed it). When the accessory mode timed out, I reset it and continued to listen to the radio. When my wife called that the granddaughters next swim event was about to start, I turned off the "accessory" and locked the car.  After the swim meet was over we returned to the car and the battery was too low to start the engine.   

This seems like too short an interval for the radio to drain the battery too low to start the car.    Does anyone have any good information on how long the 525CCA battery should play the radio before it is discharged too low to start the car?  Any idea what the current draw is for the  RE2: Uconnect Touch 8.4 CD/DVD/MP3;  RFL: 8.4" Touch Screen Display;  RSC: SIRIUS Satellite Radio?

I replaced the original battery April 2019 figuring that five-six years on the battery was about all I could expect from the battery. Now I'm faced with having the dealer "test" the battery again (another $55), or just have them pull it and put in a new battery. 

I have just had my 2013 Journey Crew rear wheel bearings replaced and was alarmed at the parts price my local dealer charged me.

I have 97,000 miles and had a constant wine (speed dependent) from the rear suspension. This sound slowly increased in volume over time and I did not realize it until one night I drove my Brother-in-laws late  model Hyundai and it was noticeably quiet. The sound increases in volume as I rounded a curve in the road. The service writer took a short ride with me and pronounced "wheel bearing."  I chose to have both rear bearings replaced since if one was bad can the second be far behind? The Journey has right side and left side parts 68184742AC and 68184743AC sold to me by the dealer at $278 and $240 respectively. The labor to replace both came to $420.

Checking those part numbers I found https://preview.tinyurl.com/yxke3ujr  that lists the two parts at $178 and $146 respectively. 

Do I have a chance in Hell of getting an adjustment from the local Dealer? I don't expect the local dealer to match the on-line Mopar price but $100 markup on each part seems excessive.

Thanks for the input.  What exactly is in the right front fender that connects to the left front turn signal?  Just an update: The turn signal works about 60% of the time. This is unpredictable. Use it once and it may work, or try it again as needed and it may work. for three to four minutes  (several left turns where the signal is used over that time) and then stop working..

My 2013 Journey Crew has developed a problem with the left front turn signal (driver's side).  About April 2017  the turn signal stopped working (rapid flash of the dash turn signal and the message came up: "Turn Signal Lamp out" with an icon of a lamp pointing to the left front.  I stopped by O'Reilly Auto Parts and picked up a pack of 3757A bulbs to swap out the failed lamp. But on the way home, the left front turn signal started working again so I left the 3757 package in the glove box.  Then three day's ago (6/10/17), the same problem happened and the turn signal stopped working. Today, I pulled the turn signal socket and replaced the 3757AK  but the new bulb did not flash and the message center continued to display the Turn signal Lamp out message. I put the original bulb back into the socket and took the car in to my Dodge dealer for the scheduled  oil change and asked the service writer to check the left turn "bulb out" problem. Three hours later, the service writer came out and said that it will take another four hours to open the passenger side fender and trace down the problem. He said that the technician traced power into the fender but not out to the left turn signal. Since I had run out of time today, I asked him to button it back up and we would schedule a time to work on the issue.

Does this make sense to any of you forum members?  I hate to commit to four hours to disassemble the right side fender at an estimated cost of $540 plus Tax. I asked if there is any charge on my ticket today for this diagnostic and was told "no."

 One other bit of information is that I have had an after market trailer wiring adapter (T-One® Connectors 118536) installed August 2015 without having any issues with the trailer lights or turn signals on the Journey.

September 2016 I had the Hands free module replaced after it failed to work. The turn signal issue did not appear for many months after that so I don't think that it is related.

On 2/20/2016 at 4:37 AM, bramfrank said:

Has your radio been serviced or has your dash been opened up for any reason?

Before you disassemble the entire vehicle you might want to pull out the radio module (behind the hard buttons below the display screen) to make certain that the 2 USB connectors (one for the BT and the other for the USB connection in the console) are properly seated in their respective sockets. It is a simple 10 minute operation.

For us non-technical, how do you accomplish the above (simple 10 minute operation)?

It really is a shame that you had to be treated this way. Cars and technology are evolving at breakneck speed these days and to keep up with it all is a dizzying spectre. This, coupled with the wealth of information available to us all on the Internet sometimes makes the customer more savvy than the repair facility in certain respects. Service personnel need to be open minded about these facts and listen to their customers rather than take the position that they know everything and the customer knows nothing. It is a learning experience for both parties. We as dealers have access to some proprietary information regarding the products that is not readily available to the general public. That information should be utilized to verify customer's concerns rather than to refute them, and if necessary, to dispel myths that often crop up in many of these forums so that problems can be readily resolved. There's no room for egos in this business. Hopefully you will find someone at your dealership who will empathize rather than chastise.

Journeyman425 Can you help me enable DRL on my 2013 Journey.? see my post in "DRL Please Read this" thread.http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/6106-daytime-running-lights-please-read-before-starting-a-thread/page-3#entry62286

I've tried to have DRL activated on my 2013 Journey Crew VIN# 3C4PDCDG3DT558171 bought used 7/15/2015 by showing the Dealers service writer the posts http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/2760-daytime-running-lights-activated/page-5#entry26839 saying to add LMK but the response has been "it can't be done."

Since then I've stumbled onto this thread were people report success in having DRL added.

Please help. What do I have to do/say at the dealer to get DRL enabled ?