RAV

Thanks for the request for an update.

The bulbs are still going strong and look neat - nice modern light blue tint. (I would install HIDs in the headlights to match but that is not in my plan)

The bulbs need to slightly trimmed for the tabs to properly work - no big deal - just take your time.

Brightness - though not spectacular - is about on par with the previous bulbs (that don't do such a great job). These bulbs are more for making the car extra visible on the road. ( I find silver cars to be somewhat prone to be overlooked on the road and lights on - all the time - is a great safety addition)

Now have my third fog light to replace.

When the last 2 burned out, and I had to pay $40+ for each bulb, I saved the sockets in order to construct some LED conversion bulbs with the materials.

Yesterday I found these LED fog lights on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/PSX24W-Light-Replacement-Bulbs-White/dp/B006FYI5WU/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1335954329&sr=1-1

$22 for a pair - $28 shipped.

I'll advise the group on how they work out.

Just an update to all here on this situation.

After having the WIN module recall performed, this problem appears to have been corrected. The performance of the new locking mechanism is more deliberate (firmer) but the key removal situation apprears to be corrected by default (mechanism replacement).

I was surprised that 'Chris' (posted above) watches this board for Chrysler and he was quite pro-active with this situation - Thanks.

We also took advantage of the brake system offer (extending the warranty due to the previous issues with short brake component life) which addressed the warped rotors that had developed.

Enjoying the Journey as we approach 36,000 miles and two years.

If anyone can provide a copy of the STAR tech bulletin - mentioned above - let me know.

I'm bringing the car in again and the problem persists.

Thanks

Just replaced my rear signal/brake bulb - 3157K - yesterday (this location uses the clear bulb - there is also amber). I've got 28,000 miles on the vehicle.

SLIGHT CONCERN/WARNING - I noticed that the socket was quite burnt/discolored. Much more than I would expect for a bulb with so little use.

Upon reinstalling the new bulb, I used some dielectric grease on the contacts to improve/maintain good contact.

This looks like a potential problem down the road.

We'll have to keep an eye on this.

It is a safety issue, I would guess. Every vehicle I have ever had has worked that way. Is it really that hard to push the button to unlock the doors? I have my Journey set to auto-unlock all doors when I open the driver door.

My kids are older - 14 - and when you drop them off, they can't unlock their doors without the driver consciously unlocking the doors (after the auto lock).

We're annoyed by the performance of the rear door locks. Even though the child locks are disabled, the rear doors do not unlock when the interior handles are pulled. We even reviewed this with the dealer when we were in for a recall yesterday.

The only way to unlock the rear doors is when the driver/passenger unlock the doors with the switch up front.

The manual states that you need to manually pull up the buttons if you are in the rear seats. This is a pain and I'm considering buying longer lock pins/buttons next time I'm at the auto parts store.

Anyone else have a comment on this.

Sure wish that the doors would unlock when you pulled the handle. Would have been nice to have electronic unlock buttons in the rear seat area.

Took the car in for the the ORC module recall. Asked the dealer to look at the FOB release issue. They asked for both key fobs. They professed no knowledge of any STAR tech bulletin. Of course - they could not duplicate the problem. They gave my wife some BS details about keeping her foot on the brake when removing the key. The tech said she could not replace any part without seeing a symptom as all part had to be returned to Chrysler for evaluation.

We'll see what happens as the problem gets worse and we come out of warranty. At least the issue is listed on our service invoice for further discussion/negotiations.

Hope you are luckier than we were.

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703300904576178423642327988.html

Associated Press

Chrysler Group LLC is recalling about 250,000 vehicles to fix potential engine stalling.

The Auburn Hills, Mich., company says it will recall 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan and Chrysler Town & Country minivans and 2010 Dodge Journey crossovers in the wake of reports that the ignition key could move while driving and cause the engine to shut off.

Chrysler says if the engine shuts off while driving, it could increase the risk of a crash. The vehicles were built between August 2009 and June 2010.

The auto company told the government it had received 32 customer complaints and was aware of two rear-end crashes. The recall is expected to begin in April.

Separately, Mazda Motor Corp. said it is recalling more than 50,000 Mazda6 cars from the 2009-2010 model years in the United States and an additional 15,000 vehicles in Canada, Mexico and Puerto Rico after discovering spider webs in the car's vents.

Dealers had identified 20 cases in which yellow sac spider webs were found in the vents, a spokesman said. It was unclear why they were crawling into the Mazda6 rather than other vehicles. Owners will be notified by mid-March and told to take their vehicles to dealers for inspection and repairs.

I am getting my seat moved back. At 6'10" tall, although the Journey has ENOUGH leg room, it could be just a little bit better.

Anyone else feel this way?

I am getting seat brackets made that will allow me to move the seat back 3 - 4 " from the factory position, with no modification to the seat or to the vehicle. Remove the seat, install the bracket, put the seat back in.

It is gonna ROCK !!!!

I will post pics. Anyone interested, let me know.

Careful, we do some things with seating at work and all of our stuff is run thru DOT testing processes to validate we don't create any problems.

I have a 2010 Journey SXT 3.5 V6. I picked it up mid November 2010 and I now have about 7500KM on it. I noticed that the rear bumper is a bit loose by the rear wheels and have read about the other issues related to this. I mentioned to my wife not to kick the built up snow from around the mud flaps but to use the snow brush we have. She and I do this in order not to flex or possibly break the mud flaps in our cold Canadian winter( minus 34 Celsius one morning). One cold morning (-28C) morning I noticed some snow built up so i removed as much as is could without bending any of the plastic body parts therefore some was still left. As my wife and I drove down the road. We came to a stop and just as we started to move we heard a loud cracking noise. Upon inspection I was expecting to see a mud flap broken off but to my surprise the rear bumper cover was cracked and the mud flap and inner fender was ok while the remaining piece of snow I tried to remove was on the road. Now I could see this piece being broken if I had backed into something or got hit from another vehicle but for a piece of snow behind a wheel to do this seems strange. I've seen some of the other things that have been mentioned about the rear bumper and mud flaps. Its my opinion that this is a defect or design flaw with the rear bumper. Also these plastic pieces are not made for winter weather. Let me know what any of you think?

Post some pictures when you can.

PSX24W is a Chrysler part number, but the Standard number for aftermarket bulb is H16, or 9009. Unfortunately, Stores like Pepboys and Autozone hardly carry those either. They works on a Charger.

But if you are looking for replacement bulb online, go with those number.

I usually order my light bulbs from

http://autolumination.com

They have Almost every bulb type, color, LED conversion in the world. However, sometimes u will find the shipping cost more than the bulb.

But if you intend to do LED or change ur fog Color to Purple, Pink, yellow, etc... This is a very reliable site.

If you plan to do HID conversion,

http://www.ddmtuning.com/

But Dodge Vehicle needs Relay and some electrical modification, or a Error code eliminator kit from the Site above.

for HID, Only use 35watt kits, do NOT use 55watt.

Yes, i know $45 for a bulb is just a rip off.

Personally, i've used H16 HID kit on a Charger, works great. HOWEVER, i've read some complaint about the Connector for 9009/H16 bulb is loose on dodge Vehicle, I donno if they did it wrong, or what. So if that turn out to be true for you, please don't blame me.

Thanks for your reply.

Unfortunately H16 looks like a 45 watt bulb. I think the 9009 is the same wattage.

Take a look at my last post in this thread:

You can not use a higher wattage bulb in these plastic lenses with the smaller wires.

I'm not finding any better deals. Before I buy this bulb, I'm going to meter out the socket to make sure power is getting there.

Wonder if this is covered under warranty. The car is 15 months old.

One of my fog lights is out on the Journey.

Manual shows bulb is PSX24W.

Dealer part number is L000PSX24W.

BULB COST IS $45.70 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I knew a dealer only part would be expensive but this is ridiculous.

Any options for getting this online? My searches have come up empty.

Thanks,

RAV

the car clearly in park, which means the Gauge Cluster reads "Park", right?

If that is the case, you need a WIN module. (on the ignition cyln.)

I hope you are still underwaranty.

-Good luck.

I'm keeping an eye on the problem.

What is a WIN module and what does it do?

The car is 13 month old - not sure if this is still under warranty but I think it is 3 years or 36,000 miles.

We have started to have an infrequent problem where the key FOB is not being released when we turn off the ignition.

Happened a few times for the wife and once for me.

Last time car was on level ground with wheels straight. Park lever clearly in park. Key would not release. Turning the key on, starting, moving into drive, and stopping again allowed the key to release.

When the key properly releases, you can hear a click at the dash.

In other vehicles, this is usually a problem with the park cable linkage not being properly adjusted.

Any thoughts?

Just rotated the tires on my 2010 RT - 9200 miles.

Checked all the pads and rotors and they look great.

This is back on sale this week and I have not done anything yet.

Any thoughts?

Check out the other discussions about shimming on their Journey's around 60 mph, this is due to the rear bumper flapping, and some people have said it is worse if you get mudflaps.

NOPE! - I drive around 80 mph and have not seen this problem.

No issues with the flaps on a car and shimmying.................

Will mud flaps look good on the journey? I'm thinking of getting moulded ones from the dealer when my journey arrives.

Post your pics with mud flaps.

http://www.mopar-accessories.com/en-US/82210997/partinfo.aspx?DivisionId=2&Year=2009&VehicleId=40&CategoryId=1003&GroupId=2036&SubGroupId=3166&pc=8907

I've used them in other cars.

They are great but the life is much shorter than normal bulbs. 1 to 1.5 years when used as driving lights (I drive with the headlights on all the time).

We've seen and read good things about the floor liners and they are on my bucket list but what about the cargo liner?? Fit good? Worth the price?

If anybody could post a few pics it would be greatly appreciated thank you.

I've got this one - http://www.mopar-accessories.com/en-US/82211404/partinfo.aspx?DivisionId=2&Year=2009&VehicleId=40&CategoryId=1004&GroupId=2050&SubGroupId=3209&pc=8916

There is a picture in the ad.

No problems, fits perfectly. When the 3rd row seat is up, it is a little awkward but it folds OK to deal with the seat up.

Guess ya have to watch out on those bumps and pot holes, or your in for a roller coaster ride. I almost needed a new pair of shorts the first time it happened :o

I went from a Chevy Malibu to this beauty. Love the storage, the cargo room, alright everything!

I am a little unnerved by the harsh and sometimes bumpy ride on the back roads.

Check the tire pressure. I found mine to be almost 50 psi (35 is spec). Once reduced, I (think) the ride was better. Tire pressure sensors have been happy with this for about a month now.

Installed the splash guards in the driveway in about an hour max.

Did not remove the wheels.

Do not see the issues you have - I also checked the rear bumper as discussed and don't see the problem.

Return to the dealer.

How much did they charge for the installation?

System sent some odd emails last night.

Showed some "new" posts in my email but they were actually not new topics.

FYI

I was checking the tire pressure in my truck and went over the the Journey to check the tires since I had the hose out.

My front (driver's side) tire was close to 50 psi.

There are a ton of threads on tire pressure and in my case the door sticker specifies 34 psi (max on the tire I believe is 44 psi).

I dropped the pressure on this tire to 40 psi. I checked all the other tires and they were all around 40 psi (so I topped/vented them to all match the 40 psi).

I may go back and lower all of them to 34 psi in the future.

What are others seeing?