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Db1014

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Everything posted by Db1014

  1. This is the latest in my quest to repair this car without spending a fortune. I got my hands on an OBD II. This is saving me a ton to time. I don’t have to keep driving back to Autozone to have the code checked. I removed the intake manifold to check the runners with hopes of clearing the p2017 code. There was a lot of carbon build up and after a good cleaning they moved without issue. I closely inspected the entire intake manifold. No cracks, holes, worn parts or anything that might suggest the intake manifold is bad. While I was at it, I removed the intake manifold runner control valve (the original part I replaced that caused the p2004 code) and made sure it was installed correctly. It was much easier now that the manifold was out of the car. It’s in the right place and holding the runners in the correct position. I also cleaned the mating surfaces and throttle plate and took a good look at the manifold gasket. Again, no issues. I put the intake manifold back in without any issues. The p2017 code cleared, but now it’s giving me p2008 “Intake Manifold Runner Ctrl Circ/Open Bank1”. I checked all of the connectors over and over to make sure there isn't a loose wire or connection. Everything is tight. When I'm driving it doesn't feel like anything is wrong. It idles fine and when I step on the gas it goes without hesitation. This whole issue would be a lot easier to troubleshoot if there were noticeable, physical problems, but there isn't. It runs and drives as good as the day I drove it off the lot. After talking to Autozone and spending some time on Google and YouTube, the general consensus is: 1: disconnect the negative battery terminal for 15ish minutes to allow the computer to reset. Then drive it for a couple of days and hope the computer resets and the engine light turns off. If this will work, does anyone happen to know what time frame I'm looking at (for example, disconnect battery for 15 minutes and drive for 50 miles)? 2: remove and replace the O2 sensor. I haven’t been able to find anything at supports the theory that the O2 sensor would generate a p2008 code without generating a separate code for a bad O2 sensor. If I’m wrong about this please tell me. I would really rather not take it to a Dodge dealer. I’m trying to avoid them charging me $90 to run the diagnostics to then tell me: 1) there a code for the intake system (I already know that) and (2) the whole intake manifold is “bad” and it will be $1000.00-1500.00 for a new one, especially when I know for a fact there isn't anything wrong with the manifold. I could be wrong about what the dealer is going to suggest. I've had bad experiences with the maintenance departments at dealers in the past so I tend to have a negative opinion about them. I'm also researching local mechanics with experiences with Dodge cars. If anyone out there is in eastern North Carolina and knows a good mechanic please let me know. This is where I’m at now. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks in advance.
  2. Thanks to everyone for the advice. So, I successfully replaced the intake manifold runner control valve (3 three bolts and 1 connector). This was the cause of the p2004 code. The good news is the p2004 code went away. The bad news is now I’m getting a p2017 code, “Intake manifold runner position sensor or switch circuit high bank 1”. Could this be a faulty connector or wire harness? Any thoughts on what my next step should be? I’m thinking I might just have to break down and take it to a professional.
  3. Greetings! I'm new to this forum and I'm hoping I can get some advice from some experts. Year: 2009 Engine: 2.4L V4 Mileage: 83k Auto Zone ran the diagnostic and came back with p2004. They said I should first try to clean the intake manifold by a noninvasive method so I used Seafoam spray. I sprayed it directly into the throttle body. There is a noticeable difference in how it runs but it didn't clear the engine code. Next they recommend I replace the intake manifold control valve. I'm not an expert mechanic but it looks like this part can be removed/installed with 3 bolts and a connector. Is that all there is to it? Will I need to do any special calibration or need any specific tools? Any help and advice is greatly appreciated Thanks!
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