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jeremy0213

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jeremy0213 last won the day on September 24 2012

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  1. Thanks for the advice. And yes bigtsr, I do have that pdf and will dig through it to see if I find something. AstralRT, thanks for the suggestions. I will check to see if any of the side markers are always on. The High/DRL won't work because they are not always on. The high beams/day time running lights go off when the low beams are on or when the turn signal is on but thanks anyway. The ideas are headed in the right direction
  2. Last week I ordered the following: Most sites did not list the following kit as compatible with my '11 Dodge Journey Crew but it is listed for '09 & '10 Dodge Journeys and if I am not mistake the fog light housings are the same. Guess I will find out soon. Spyder Auto FL-P-DM05-HL Projector Fog Light http://www.amazon.co...ils_o01_s00_i00 The next kit was listed for my Journey but is no longer available(?) which makes me worry a little bit. "Slim" HID Kit by Kensun with Xenon Lights, H3, 5000K" http://www.amazon.co...ils_o02_s01_i00 Both should arrive today or tomorrow. Installation of the HID kit looks to be straightforward and the new fog light housings looks to be an exact swap. The "Angel Eyes" part of the new fog lights look to be wired separately and I want the Angel Eye ring to always be on when the Journey is on regardless of if the fog lights (or any other lights) are actually on or not. Anyone have any suggestions of where can I (easily) wire the rings to achieve this? Hopefully somewhere near the fog lights already. Any other help would be appreciated as well, Thank you.
  3. This is my first post to this forum and I hope that it can help someone out there. Here is my recent experience with switching out the factory fog light bulbs with LED bulbs. Driver side bulb switched to LED and passenger side still stock. The LED bulbs that I bought can be found here: http://www.amazon.co...fb_lfb_prodpg_0 The stock bulbs are removed by grabbing the plug for the bulb, pressing firmly down on the tab to release and carefully pulling straight back. Then grab the bulb by pressing both tabs on either side to release and carefully pulling straight back to remove the bulb from the housing. The bulbs that I got need some modification to fit the housing. The above image shows both sides of the new LED bulbs, one of the old bulbs and the housing. Carefully using a sharp knife or razor shave off the single tab on one side of the bulb and the thick tab on the other side. You should compare the stock and replacement bulb to see if yours require the same modifications. The bulb showing the large tab on right in picture that is to be shaved off (sorry the picture is a little blurry) The bulb after the large tab is shaved off (again sorry for the blurriness) The bulbs should then fit in to the housing and just need a firm press to latch into place. The plug then needs a firm press to fit into the bulb. The plug can only fit into the bulb one way so don't force it in, only a firm press should get it to fit correctly. The bulbs came from the supplier slightly imperfect. One bulb had a clip broken off and the other had a bubble in the glass over the main forward facing LED. The broken clip is no big deal it is just going to be annoying if/when I need to remove that bulb. The bubble in the glass does't seem to affect the output, yet. I will be taking a closer look in the near future to see if it might affect the light pattern. The new LED bulbs have a much larger and round pattern from what I can tell so far. When I removed the stock bulbs the pattern was wide and flat. I am going to adjust the aim down due to the larger round pattern that the bulbs have to try and prevent any dazzling that they may cause for other drivers on the road. The light color is really nice and is comparable to 4300k from the information I can find online. Before After I do not have any problems with heat or melting as I have read some people have had when switching out for LED bulbs.
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