After 24 days I finally got my Pioneer 10” slim sub installed to my satisfaction. My goal was to make it easy to remove so that the trunk could still be fully used for luggage for a family of 5 and to be able to put the back row up without removal. I decided to use large a quick connect/disconnect for my power and ground and a smaller quick connect/disconnect for my amp remote turn-on wire.
For those looking to fill in for the low end that’s missing from door/dash speakers this Pioneer 10” sub matched with a Pioneer Class-D mono amp is perfect. It’s also high powered enough to rattle the license plate, if that’s your preference.
I ran the power cable from the battery (see previous How To post) down the driver’s side (left) to the rear. I like how easy it is to pop off the trim panels and hide the cabling. It is then routed across the vehicle’s driver side to the passenger’s side (right) under the 3rd Row seat where the back folds. Doing this avoids pinch points. I used a stiff wire hanger to fish the cables through. Taping it on with some electrical tape makes it easy to pull across.
I chose the passenger’s side as the location for the amp and sub as the amp’s power inputs are on its right side and it was easier to hide the cables. Note: this slim sub and amp will fit, height wise, under the driver’s seat. It will stick out about 6-8” and I decided against that as it would block the floor compartment and my kids feet would beat it up.
The RCA and remote turn-on cables went down the passengers side. I bolted the ground terminal ring under the 3rd Row seats to a bolt in the middle holding the seats down. It was the only bolt in the area without paint. The bolt was too large for the terminal ring so I slide the terminal under and bolted it down with prejudice. It isn’t going anywhere and it’s well grounded. The RCA cables were run up past the 3rd Row seat and then tucked along the channel of the trunk compartment lid.
To crimp the terminals for the power and ground quick connect/disconnect I decided against buying a 4AWG crimping tool for a one time use. I used a jack stand as an avil, a torx impact bit, and a hammer. I crimped the terminals on 4 sides and it seems to be holding well. It’s definitely not the recommended way but it’s still safe.
My wife thinks it’s large and takes up more room than she realized it would but since I’ve added the quick connect/disconnects she’s happy. Anyone with questions on how to wire their Dodge Journey’s audio system, feel free to ask. I’ve ripped he vehicle apart and learned a few things in the process. Let me know what you think!
My system
Speakers
Dash: Infinity Reference 3.5” 3022cf
Front Doors: Kenwood eXcelon 6.5” 3-way - Discontinued
Rear Doors: Infinity PR9603IS 6X9" 90W 3-Way Primus Series
Sub: Pioneer 10” Shallow Mount TS-SWX2502
Amp
Pioneer GM-D8601 Class D Mono Amp
Headunit
Pioneer 4100NEX
Pioneer CD-MC20 Auto-EQ Mic
Metra Turbo Kit - moves the climate controls down and puts head unit where climate was. Requires 4.3” screen (basically becomes climate controls all the time)
Access ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface
Cables
New England Providore 4AWG CCA Wiring Kit with Power, 100A Fuse, Ground, Speaker wire, Remote turn-on wire, and RCA.
HYCLAT Battery/Ground Quick Connect/Disconnect Terminals
