wife was driving to work, then car died, as if alternator was dead and battery drained - even did the flickery lights thing when batteries die. Towed home, pulled battery and alternator, tested at AutoZone. Both tested good (battery has 94% charge!). Reinstalled. checked for bad ground/loose wiring - no luck. voltmeter on Jumper terminals = 2.18 volts. Voltmeter on battery = 12.54 volts. pulled every fuse while monitoring voltage at jumper terminals but no change and all fuses tested good, none blown.
I'm thinking BCM is bad, but I don't know how to verify this. Another post on here, someone said that it was their battery temp sensor, but don't know how to test that either.
The car is a 2011 Dodge Journey Express 2.4l v4. I just replaced the starter and crankshaft position sensor about 1 month ago and it was fine ever since. I found out that the CPS was going bad when I got AutoZone to read the codes, but during that it also said there was something wrong with the BCM. Still, considering they are $250 I want to make sure I'm not wasting my money guessing at the actual problem.
battery, alternator good, but car is completely dead
in Electrical, Battery & Charging
Posted
wife was driving to work, then car died, as if alternator was dead and battery drained - even did the flickery lights thing when batteries die. Towed home, pulled battery and alternator, tested at AutoZone. Both tested good (battery has 94% charge!). Reinstalled. checked for bad ground/loose wiring - no luck. voltmeter on Jumper terminals = 2.18 volts. Voltmeter on battery = 12.54 volts. pulled every fuse while monitoring voltage at jumper terminals but no change and all fuses tested good, none blown.
I'm thinking BCM is bad, but I don't know how to verify this. Another post on here, someone said that it was their battery temp sensor, but don't know how to test that either.
The car is a 2011 Dodge Journey Express 2.4l v4. I just replaced the starter and crankshaft position sensor about 1 month ago and it was fine ever since. I found out that the CPS was going bad when I got AutoZone to read the codes, but during that it also said there was something wrong with the BCM. Still, considering they are $250 I want to make sure I'm not wasting my money guessing at the actual problem.
Any advice? Thanks