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Hi,

My 2012 Dodge journey won't start. I tried to start it this morning and it just didnt start.  The brake pedal is hard to press, when I attempt to start the car all lights from the dash would go crazy blinking and the car would make a rattle noise (not the engine, it sounds more like electrical system), and the temperature displayed on the dash shows as -40.Any idea of what could be happening? The battery was replaced about a month ago and had worked fine so far. I'll have to tow the car to the dealer to repair. I uploaded some videos:

 

 

 

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Thanks for the replies! you guys might be right about the battery, I boosted it and it started but then I started observing the car behavior and I found that it may be draining the battery. I bought this car recently, and it is my first push-to-start, I noticed that if the radio is not on when I turn off the car and close the doors, the speedometer and the RPM lights as well as the small LCD screen in the middle won't go out, the LCD red background will stay on. I played with this for a while and noticed it, I also noticed that when the car is off, inside it makes some noises similar to when a CD player is moving a disk.

Edited by canaveral

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jkeaton, all the electronics have a delay and they go out after a few seconds, just the speedometer, rpm and red background of the LCD screen in the middle stay on, I waited for 3 to 5 minutes before I started doing something. When I leave the radio on and shut off the engine, close the door and all the electronics go out including the ones I suspect I have issues with. Another thing I noticed is that when I start the engine again and the radio is on all I hear is white noise even thou the radio station is tuned and it is set to radio.

Thanks for you help!

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Hello,

I have a 2012  Dodge Journey with 25000 k on it, that had the exact same thing happen. It has become a nightmare. I have had it towed to the dealer 3 times in 4 months and have spent a total of $1879.00 on repairs that have not worked.

here are the details:

October 15, 2016 Hands Free and Uconnect stopped working.

October 24, 2016 tried to start vehicle in carport.  Brake became very rigid, all lights on dash came on, said -40 and then started ticking like a bomb. Hubby disconnected  battery for a few hours, reconnected but was completely dead.

towed to dealer and after 2 days they replaced TIPM. $874.44. Drove vehicle home and all was good. Until....

December 13, 2016: took in again for maintenance and told them Uconnect not working again. Did a scan, said it was the hands free module. $187.50 for scan.

decided I could not get it fixed right then as quote for replacement was $780.00.

December 27, 2016: won't start. Tow in, they say battery is dead. Replace battery

$381.08

january 24, 2017: won't start. Get towed to dealership. They look for what may be draining the battery. Claim they have found it. Installed new KIN. No charge.

February 23,2017: Vehicle will not start. Get towed in. They do electrical system diagnostics. Replace HFM. $436.80. They say they do not know if this fix my vehicle once and for all.

Does any one have any thoughts on this? I cannot afford to keep doing this.

Deb

 

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HI here all I also have smaller problem what main is doing is a no key detected  all must all the time anyone else ever have this happen?  and can someone tell where the  Wireless ignition control modules  module ?

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My fix to this problem was that the fuse box under the hood was loose and had dirt and dust underneath it. I removed the fuse box and blew out the dust and dirt. Reseated the fuse box and my amp draw dropped from over 20 amps down to 0.03 amps. It's been a few days and my battery hasn't drained. Before finding this solution I put in 2 new alternators and 2 new batteries. 

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I have a 2012 Dodge Journey SE, purchased used and after a month or so started having what appeared to be battery issues. Go to start car in the morning and nothing, charge the battery and everything is OK, checked whether charging while running OK and after going through this procedure several times noticed that the dash lights were not turning off. Read all the complaints about these lemons and on checking with the dealer found that they knew squat and kept saying it's the battery. So I took up the challenge, bought a new higher cranking battery and yes you guessed it same results. My grandson has the old battery and it's still working fine in his Kia. I started to monitor the dash light problem and determined that if I was alone in the car the lights would shut off after about 8 to 10 seconds, however when more than one person exits the car the lights stay on, and they also stay on when I open a second door before the lights go off. My new rule was "first door opened has to be last door closed" however that doesn't always work. It's a pain standing beside the car to make sure the lights go off !  By the way if they stay on I have to turn the car back on without starting it, wait until everything clicks in, warning lights, radio etc. then turn it off and get out and usually the lights will then turn off.

Back to the dealer who then ran a scan for $100.00 and determined that the instrument cluster is receiving false readings from the BCM which they would replace for $600.00. Given that many others have been hosed on repairs I am hesitant  to get this done, can't they simply flash the BCM to fix this? Can I buy and install a used unit and sell this thing?

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My Bluetooth stopped working, the power windows start going up, then go back down on their own. 2 days ago radio shut off and restarted itself.  When the temp outside goes below -14c, the remote start makes headlights blink once, and that's it, I need to manually start it. A few times of failure to start remotely, the battery is dead.  I've had a parasite check for leakage, nothing. They put a shim in the glove box as it was an issue for someone at some point. They replaced the battery cable (terminal), flashed both module's, and still the remote start fails in cold weather. Now this remote issue usually occurs when the vehicle has sat all night.  After I'm forced to start it manually at say 5am, it sits for about 3 hours and will work remotely. 3 mopar warrantied batteries later, the dodge dealership can't repair or replicate.  Sick of playing pin the tail on the donkey.

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1 hour ago, brianfurchner said:

My Bluetooth stopped working, the power windows start going up, then go back down on their own. 2 days ago radio shut off and restarted itself.  When the temp outside goes below -14c, the remote start makes headlights blink once, and that's it, I need to manually start it. A few times of failure to start remotely, the battery is dead.  I've had a parasite check for leakage, nothing. They put a shim in the glove box as it was an issue for someone at some point. They replaced the battery cable (terminal), flashed both module's, and still the remote start fails in cold weather. Now this remote issue usually occurs when the vehicle has sat all night.  After I'm forced to start it manually at say 5am, it sits for about 3 hours and will work remotely. 3 mopar warrantied batteries later, the dodge dealership can't repair or replicate.  Sick of playing pin the tail on the donkey.

 

Good luck!

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On 11/17/2017 at 9:36 AM, jkeaton said:

 

Good luck!

On 10/23/2017 at 11:01 PM, oldtimer1942 said:

I have a 2012 Dodge Journey SE, purchased used and after a month or so started having what appeared to be battery issues. Go to start car in the morning and nothing, charge the battery and everything is OK, checked whether charging while running OK and after going through this procedure several times noticed that the dash lights were not turning off. Read all the complaints about these lemons and on checking with the dealer found that they knew squat and kept saying it's the battery. So I took up the challenge, bought a new higher cranking battery and yes you guessed it same results. My grandson has the old battery and it's still working fine in his Kia. I started to monitor the dash light problem and determined that if I was alone in the car the lights would shut off after about 8 to 10 seconds, however when more than one person exits the car the lights stay on, and they also stay on when I open a second door before the lights go off. My new rule was "first door opened has to be last door closed" however that doesn't always work. It's a pain standing beside the car to make sure the lights go off !  By the way if they stay on I have to turn the car back on without starting it, wait until everything clicks in, warning lights, radio etc. then turn it off and get out and usually the lights will then turn off.

Back to the dealer who then ran a scan for $100.00 and determined that the instrument cluster is receiving false readings from the BCM which they would replace for $600.00. Given that many others have been hosed on repairs I am hesitant  to get this done, can't they simply flash the BCM to fix this? Can I buy and install a used unit and sell this thing?

 

Update: Feb.20/18 - Dealer installed new BCM but problem not solved !  Any ideas other than sell this thing ?

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