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MD2S projector retrofit with Apollo 2.0 shroud.


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Excellent work. How does the light output look at night? (How do they perform?) I put projectors on my Nitro, and was somewhat dissatisfied with the outcome

Thanks!

I never tried these ones yet but they will be great for their size. I'll post some pictures when I get these things installed. I just have to mount the led halo, clean up the lights, seal them back up and install.

It all depends on the quality of projectors, bulbs, ballasts that you used but need to know more on why you were dissatisfied. I'm still using the first FX-R 1.0 projector on a F-150 that I did 4 years ago and I'm still in awe.

Turned out nice. I like the ocular shrouds, did they require any cutting? Did you try those before or after you sank the projector deeper in the bowl? You know you need to post pics of them on the DJ, right? Ha!

Thanks1

The 2 shrouds were placed over the sunken projector. The shrouds still had a 1/4 inch gap before clipping onto the projector. The right side of the Ocular would have just needed a little bit of sanding. The left side because of the way the bowl is would have been cut to fit in taking the top half off the left side. Also the headlight surround is sitting close to 1 inch higher then it should be. So with that said both shrouds have to come down 1/4 inch and the surround needs to be trimmed 3/4 inch so the headlight will close up.

I'm so close but so far from being able to install them. I got slammed with work so I just need to find the time now.

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That looks good man. So you had to trim the shroud up abit to fit nicely? And I sink the projector back enough until the holes meet he bowl. Screw it in align it up. Get some JB weld and stick it in place and should be good to go? I'd like to see output shots. Even in a garage or something if they r not on the DJ yet

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That looks good man. So you had to trim the shroud up abit to fit nicely? And I sink the projector back enough until the holes meet he bowl. Screw it in align it up. Get some JB weld and stick it in place and should be good to go? I'd like to see output shots. Even in a garage or something if they r not on the DJ yet

Yes pretty much.

1. Make hole in bowl large enough for the back of projector to fit in and projector mounts touch bowl.

2. with projector fitted in bowl mark holes for screws, drill holes in bowl and use a course threaded screw to mount projector to bowl. Don't screw the projector on tight but just snug, all you want to do is align now. Just use common sense like if the projector need to go up loosen the lower screws and tighten the top screws same as left and right. You might also need to drill the projector mounting holes a bit bigger as this will allow a little rotational adjustment.

DON'T FORGET YOUR HIGH BEAMS! Align the cutoff with your high beams if you plane to use them. I think my low part of the cutoff was 3 inches lower then middle of high beam. I never installed the lights yet so I cannot say it worked for me, but going off all the measurement I did it should work.

3. JB weld quick to hold the projector and the bowl together, I used the TYC lights and the bowls are weak for just screws alone.

4. Trim and sand the back of the shroud a bit to fit, mine was around 1/4 inch.

5. Trim the headlight surround to clear the projector shroud, I sanded it with a dremel it was very easy.

6. Everything should now clear and fit and headlight lens should be able to fully close.

I'll take some pictures tonight. I'll be using crappy bulbs though as my Osram CBI's are still shipping. I had to mess with one projector shield as it was messed up when I got it, so the cutoff might not be straight like it should. It would have cost me more for shipping so I tried to fix it myself. I'm happy with it now but it would have been better new without any problems.

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I like the thick blue color band... The shield could definitely use a little more tweaking though. Curious how noticeable it will be when the are both on and overlapping each other. I may have to pick up some of those bulbs.

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The cutoff looked way better when I was aiming both lights together. Like you were saying the overlapping eliminated the flaws to where I was happy.

These New bubs are way better then I was expecting. I bought the previous version and thought they were worse then the normal XB's. I was leery about these XB35 5500K bulbs but after seeing them in person yesterday I kind of wish I never spent the money on the CBI bulbs now. Bulbs had a run time of less then 5 minutes on them before I took the pictures, that fact alone is amazing.

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The cutoff looked way better when I was aiming both lights together. Like you were saying the overlapping eliminated the flaws to where I was happy.

These New bubs are way better then I was expecting. I bought the previous version and thought they were worse then the normal XB's. I was leery about these XB35 5500K bulbs but after seeing them in person yesterday I kind of wish I never spent the money on the CBI bulbs now. Bulbs had a run time of less then 5 minutes on them before I took the pictures, that fact alone is amazing.

Yeah, I am definitely sold.

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  • 1 month later...

I don't recall what Powerz69 did, but I bought TYC replacement lights from Rock Auto (cheapest place to get them that I could find). His retro is a long term project, so I assume he did the same thing, but don't remember for sure. Permasealed lights can be opened (higher temp + longer times + more reheats), you will just likely end up deforming the black lip the lens sits in when prying them apart. The lip is hidden from view though and could be bent back into place with a little extra effort. I chose replacement lights so I had more time to work...

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So did you cut them open or use aftermarket lights?

I used aftermarket TYC lights, they were butyl. I went with the aftermarket lights just because I didn't know if a retrofit with a MD2S projector was possible. Our lights should be able to fit any projector except for the LS460. All other projectors except for the MH1 will need to be sunk into the headlight bowl, with headlight surround cut to fit shroud. The shroud needs to be trimmed to fit the headlight bowl as well. More time is needed for these installs.

The MH1 projector install is the easiest, remove headlight lens, install MH1 through bulb hole tighten up, install shroud you will probably need a shroud extender of some sort to touch the headlight bowl. Put lights back together, Align for even cutoff. I'm guessing very little cutting is needed if any with the MH1 install.

Lobitz68 can explain how to do a MH1 retro better as that's what he used for his.

Edited by Powerz69
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I was just curious on what people did for headlights. I use to have a retrofitting job, so it's not new to me. Only perma headlights I have done were my Fusion and I cut them open. Thanks for the info though.

I did 2 retros on permaseal headlights one was a 06 F150 and the other was a 96 Caravan. I baked them open, each headlight took multiple bakes and around 1 hour of time to get them open. As long as you take your time knowing it will take awhile you can open them.

The TYC butyl ones that I did one was easy to open 1 bake. The 2nd one was a bit tougher for some reason it took 2 bakes. Still around 70% easier then peraseal.

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  • 8 months later...

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