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Big brake kit to repace crappy OE brakes?

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17s fit....all base models have 17in alum wheels with the big brakes.

Great! Thanks for the info Moparman! :) I checked at Rockauto and they only showed the bigger brakes sizes for the R/T models so I'm glad that if I want the option of bigger brakes I can go ahead with it.

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Be aware that slotted and/or drilled rotors are somewhat noisy. And they get REAL noisy, if driven in salty conditions. Akebono make a VERY good ceramic pad, I use them myself.

Bottom line is the smaller Journey/Caravan brakes are just too small. You can use whatever pads/rotors you want, they are too small. There is no "fix". If your that concerned , I would put the newer stuff on, but its gonna be pricey. The bigger brakes work SOOOOO much better, esp, if you are hard on them. Go and test drive a new one, and you'll see what I mean.

I'm aware of the noise, but the advantage of dissipating the heat and and water/snow on them is great. Had slotted rotors on my Lancer and they did the job very well. I don't really recall though having noise issues during salty conditions, care to expand on this?

With the weather we've been getting here in Toronto, I thought to check out the '13 R/T models and maybe upgrade to an AWD. I love my '11 Crew, but just hate to see it depreciate and not be happy with some of the items, such as the brakes.

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I installed the Power Stop drilled and slotted brake kit on my 2011 a few weeks ago, part # K4130, that I ordered from www.thebrakeguys.com (by far the cheapest I found). So far, so good. No brake dust issues, no noises, and the brakes work great. Our warped rotors probably began around 18k miles, and finally at 28k miles I bit the bullet and bought new ones. Installed them myself, which was a piece of cake considering how new the vehicle is (no stubborn bolts or anything).

Edited by shaunatk

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I installed the Power Stop drilled and slotted brake kit on my 2011 a few weeks ago, part # K4130, that I ordered from www.thebrakeguys.com (by far the cheapest I found). So far, so good. No brake dust issues, no noises, and the brakes work great. Our warped rotors probably began around 18k miles, and finally at 28k miles I bit the bullet and bought new ones. Installed them myself, which was a piece of cake considering how new the vehicle is (no stubborn bolts or anything).

So how much was the kit? Was it for all 4 corners?

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There is a link just Google successful big brake upgrade dodge journey...you will need to replace calipers, rotors, pads...and have at bare minimum 17 inch wheels....it'll cost around 600 if you do the job yourself...don't waste your time on drilled or slotted...just got this done myself and love them although pedal it's a little soft other then that no shutter or shaking of steering wheel...your welcome

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i would not turn any rotor that you have been having problems wit warpage or shudder, you would only be wasting your time and money by making a bad rotor even thinner. that said had my first brake problem at about 10 k and the dealer turned them and then about 28k started having more shuddering so was able to talk dealer into replaceing fronts pads and rotors as a goodwill gesture. now about 30 k later( 63k usa) not having no shudder or any problems with my brakes also i dont do much in town driving i am thinking i will do my rears pads and fronts again in about march or april waiting on wagner to run their rebate offer about this time of year. since not having any problems front or rear with shudder or any rotor problems will just replace the pads. i know most people say you should turn the rotors when doing a brake job but have done this many times before with no problems.also if you use ceramic pads they WILL cause more heat and makes the rotors heat up alot more and i will not use them i always stick with wagner thermo-quite pads and they last forever for me.

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i would not turn any rotor that you have been having problems wit warpage or shudder, you would only be wasting your time and money by making a bad rotor even thinner. that said had my first brake problem at about 10 k and the dealer turned them and then about 28k started having more shuddering so was able to talk dealer into replaceing fronts pads and rotors as a goodwill gesture. now about 30 k later( 63k usa) not having no shudder or any problems with my brakes also i dont do much in town driving i am thinking i will do my rears pads and fronts again in about march or april waiting on wagner to run their rebate offer about this time of year. since not having any problems front or rear with shudder or any rotor problems will just replace the pads. i know most people say you should turn the rotors when doing a brake job but have done this many times before with no problems.also if you use ceramic pads they WILL cause more heat and makes the rotors heat up alot more and i will not use them i always stick with wagner thermo-quite pads and they last forever for me.

I replaced my rear pads and just used sandpaper on the rotors to clean off the pad material from the previous brake pads.

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Does anyone know if the 14s got different pads? I just went over 7,000 miles and have never had any brake dust issues on my wheels.

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Please tell me someone has found an actual solution and speculation as to what's wrong with these cars. I purchased a used 2009 and OMG I'm tired of spending money. I get my brakes bled every week because the brakes go out. I will push the pedal down and all there is is air and no stopping. I haven't driven my car in two weeks. no one seems to know what's wrong with it!

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sounds like you have a leak or a bad master cylinder, 

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1 hour ago, 2late4u said:

sounds like you have a leak or a bad master cylinder, 

Agreed. The problem, as you describe it, is not the common issue that the early Journeys had with brakes to small and excessive wear. What you describe is a loss of pressure and / or fluid. This is not a common issue to the Journey anymore than other brands. The fact that "nobody seems to know what is wrong with it" is because you need a better mechanic to diagnose the problem. If you have air in the system, you have a leak. If you are losing fluid, you have a leak. If the fluid is good but the peddle is soft, you have a mechanical problem at the end of the system with the actual braking components. If the peddle is hard and will not go down, you have a sticking caliper or a cylinder / valve problem. All vehicles can have these issues. You need a qualified mechanic to start.

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5 hours ago, pissedcustomer said:

Please tell me someone has found an actual solution and speculation as to what's wrong with these cars. I purchased a used 2009 and OMG I'm tired of spending money. I get my brakes bled every week because the brakes go out. I will push the pedal down and all there is is air and no stopping. I haven't driven my car in two weeks. no one seems to know what's wrong with it!

 

Lol. No one? Who’s looked at it so far? 

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6 hours ago, pissedcustomer said:

Please tell me someone has found an actual solution and speculation as to what's wrong with these cars. I purchased a used 2009 and OMG I'm tired of spending money. I get my brakes bled every week because the brakes go out. I will push the pedal down and all there is is air and no stopping. I haven't driven my car in two weeks. no one seems to know what's wrong with it!

 

When you buy used you have to expect problems, especially with a 9-10 year old car.

 

I have an 09.  Nothing like that EVER happened with mine.  Pads wear quick? Yep, but not since I switched to ceramic pads. Your issue has nothing to do with fast pad wear.

 

Obviously who ever “looked” at it did so from their chair.  I can guess from my living room in Chicago that you have a leak in a line, bad master cylinder, blown caliper or some other leak.  Take it somewhere with a real mechanic.

Edited by OhareFred

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