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J.W.

High idle + misfire + random codes

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BRACE YOURSELVES!!

 

      Bought a 2009, 3.5L, AWD. The guy says it needs #5 injector. I verified the code, replaced, condition is the same. Starts hard, idles fine for a minute or less, idle climbs near 2000rpm and stays, lightning bolt flashes on dash, starts sounding like a dead cylinder (not a knock, but rather a thud). No vacuum leaks to be found. Cleaned manifold temo sensor, ohmed out injectors, diode test on injector harness, watched injectors spray at same rate. Covered throttle port with my hand and it tried to suck my arm off. I've cleaned the throttle body, the gears in the throttle body feel good/tight/strong/not worn,

This car has been wrecked, I don't  know to what extent. 

Codes have changed a few times. Even with back to back scans codes changed a couple times.

Codes have included:

scan

1) P0174  BANK 2 LEAN 

2) P0882 TCM POWER INPUT SIGNAL LOW

3) P0340 CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

4) P0171 BANK 1 LEAN

5) C121C TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL DENIED

6) U0019 LOW SPEED CAN COMMUNICATION BUS

7) U0199 LOST COMM WITH DOOR CONTROL MOD A

8) P0204 CYLINDER 4 INJECTOR "A" CIRCUIT

    B1A13 ACTIVE * RKE FOB 4 BATTERY LOW

    P0024 "B" CAMSHAFT POSITION -TIMING OVER - ADVANCED OR SYSTEM PERFORMANCE BANK 2

.    U0203 ACTIVE - LOST COMM WITH DOOR MOD LEFT FRONT

.     B16A5 PASSENGER BACKLIGHTING SWITCH CIRCUIT HIGH

.     P161E NO CODE DEFINITION AVAILABLE

.    P0869 TRANSMISSION FLUID PRESSURE HIGH

.     P0933 HYDRAULIC PRESSURE SENSOR RANGE/PERFORMANCE

9) NOTHING NEW

10) U0114 LOST COMM WITH FINAL DRIVE CONTROL MOD

.      U0100 LOST COMM WITH ECM/PCM

.     B210D BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW

.     P0C58 DRIVE MOTOR "B" POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT "A" HIGH

.      C2102 STEERING COLUMN MODULE SYSTEM VOLTAGE LOW

.       MORE VOLTAGE AND DOOR CODES, RESTRAINT CODES MISSING ECU DATA, RADIO CODES

11) SAME AS #10 WITH THE ADDITION OF 

.      P2173 THROTTLE ACTUATOR CONTROL SYSTEM- HIGH AIR FLOW/VACUUM LEAK DETECTED. (SLOW ACCUMULATION)

12) MORE OF THE SAME

 

Cam sensor "A", Lost communication And lean banks have shown up most frequently in all the reports.

I use a $100 Bluetooth scantool. It did pretty well compared to the $200-$300 machines at the parts store, but it wont connect to the app anymore. All the above codes came from save reports on the app. It lists a bazillion possible fixes. PCM/TCM/ECM, RELEARN/PROGRAM/REPLACE SHOWED UP A LOT as well as EGR clean/replace.

I recently came across A LOT of reported issues with the TIPM.

I plan to have a $4000 snap on diag erase codes and pull new info. Other than that, where do I start? Preferably without throwing tons of money randomly.

 

Thanks for any input

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All I can suggest is start with one code and fix that. On to the next. If you don't know whats been damaged, we don't either. It could be as simple as a crushed wire somewhere shorting out or something way worse. Kinda hard to diagnose over the internet. 

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Someone suggested that if the airbags were deployed that it completely disables the computer, it would have to be replaced and reprogrammed.  Not sure if thats true. If thats the case, maybe a relearn fixes it all?

 

I know a lot of those codes are likely due to low battery voltage. I guess I'll update whenever I get a fresh scan done.

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Never heard of that before. But if the airbags deployed, must have been significant damage. Do you even know who repaired it? Was it a total loss? I’m curious why you would purchase such a vehicle 

Edited by jkeaton

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I dont know if air bags were deployed. I got it off a used lot for cheap. Needed #5 injector he said. I noticed a ding on the left rear and didnt think much of it. Later on I ran my hand down the fender on the opposite corner of the car from the rear dind and realised the paint had some texture. Thats when i started to realise this car had been through something bigger then what I would like to think about and the body work lacks a bit. 

I need to pull a car fax report and find out more info.

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Buying a used car is a gamble. Sounds like you lost this hand. Good luck and report back what you find. 

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Have you verified the timing belt is in good shape?

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No, havent checked timing belt. Was hoping to not have to tear into it very car. That always means more money. I'm still working on getting a hold of a good diag tool

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Okay, did work on the car for a couple days. Came back to it and it was dead. The last thing I did with the car was shut the engine off and walk away. Battery was charged but was drained down to 2.4 volts in 2 days. Charged the battery up to12v and I have nothing. No lights, no clicks...... like it doesn't have a battery in it at all. Zero power. Volt meter stopped working, power probe stopped working.....I'm thinking 50cal., Tannerite, propane and gasoline.

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Charge the battery.  Disconnect the battery.  Leave it for a few minutes and connect it again.  Should start.  Had the same problem.  Our Journey would not start after a 2 day drain. No lights or anything after a battery charge.  Had to disconnect it via the negative post before it reset everything and would start.  Weird.  No logical explanation.  Hope it works for you.  You obviously have something draining it.  You will get a ton of weird codes when your battery is low.  Our code list was a mile long when our battery was giving us problems from low voltage.  All sorts of electrical shit happens during low voltage setting off the codes.  Start with finding the parasitic draw first.  That will solve a lot of your code problems.

 

mechanical-idiot

 

 

Edited by mechanical-idiot

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^^This

I had a 2 year old battery fail with a dead cell. It would charge but would be dead the next day. It was under warranty so the dealer diagnosed it but the dash threw all kinds of warnings and lights.

 

Have the battery and the alternator load checked. Check all of the wiring from the battery out. There have been some who had trouble with a sensor embedded in the negative terminal post clamp at the battery. I don't know anything about that one but something to look for.

 

These vehicles are very subsectable to low or inconsistent voltage.

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Our first dead battery was a 6 year old original.  Replaced.  2nd was a dead cell that showed up after about six weeks.  Replaced.  Third kept dying for no apparent reason.  Replaced.  Had a parasitic draw test done.  Turned out to be the HFM (hands free module - bluetooth).  Mechanic pulled the fuse which was number 131 under the passenger side dash.  No more problems.  I am now an expert battery replacer for the Journey.  I am waiting for my certificate in the mail.

 

All sorts of weird electrical shit was happening during low voltage including limp mode.  It is a relief to have it fixed.

 

mechanical-idiot

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2late4u,

 

Can you please post the address of that dark road that you previously referred to.  I want to program it into our GPS.  I will probably need it the next time we have a f'n 800 dollar problem with this beast.  I am now in a love hate relationship with our 2012 RT AWD Journey.  It could turn to a hate relationship at any given time.  This old girl is dragging me down.  

 

A word of advise to everyone in the real world - Don't buy an AWD Journey unless you have an extended warranty.  I think that should be a Chinese proverb.

 

Ahhhhh, who am I fooling.  I do love the damn thing.  I just hate my bad luck.

 

mechanical-idiot

Edited by mechanical-idiot

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2late4u, I dont think its a luck issue. These cars are terrible. I only bought my 2009 AWD to replace an injector and resell. 

 

I'll post coordinates in a timely manner.

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1 hour ago, J.W. said:

2late4u, I dont think its a luck issue. These cars are terrible. I only bought my 2009 AWD to replace an injector and resell. 

 

I'll post coordinates in a timely manner.

well guess you are entitled to your own opinion,,,, i have had 2 journeys a 2011 and a 2014 loved them  both ,of course i bought new and didnt buy an 10 yr old journey that has a lot of problems, guess you get what you pay for.....sometime you win and sometimes you dont......

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5 hours ago, J.W. said:

2late4u, I dont think its a luck issue. These cars are terrible. I only bought my 2009 AWD to replace an injector and resell. 

 

I'll post coordinates in a timely manner.

 

Correction. Your car is terrible. Had great luck with both of ours. You are judging based off a 10 year old previously wrecked, used vehicle. Your opinion is based on that and that alone. Hurry up and sell it. 

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Jkeaton, you aren't wrong, but i've witnessed what seems to be thousands of complaints and down right hateful reviews because dodge wont issue recalls for problems with a dastardly amount of reports. It burns my stomach to know I'm going to take a loss on this car.

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Sorry but it’s not dodges fault you bought this particular car.  I bought a used truck awhile back. 2 months after I bought it I had to have the transmission rebuilt. I did not blame the vehicle manufacturer. I knew the risks going in.  You witnessed thousands of complaints, yet you still bought one. That’s on you. 

Edited by jkeaton

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JW, just so I got this right:  You bought a car you knew was wrecked, didn’t get a CarFax report before you plunked down your money to see how bad, knew it needed work and is at least 10 years old (I got my 09 in July of 08) and expected to make money on reselling it?  Seems pretty optimistic.

That being said, my has been far from problem free, but I purchased a lifetime warranty AND got the free lifetime power train warranty because I’m the original owner.

 

OK, none of that bullshit helps you.  Check the negative battery cable.  The sensor at the end corrodes and fails.  Check the voltage at the jump terminals, see what you have.  Anything less than 13+, start looking at the battery.  Also, there has been occurrences of the HF Module draining the battery.  Try removing fuse 131 in the fuse box on the passenger side fuse box.  Good luck!

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Thanks OhareFred. I knew it needed an injector and didnt notice the signs of it being in an accident till a few days after purchase. What I think could be a bad wreck, could be a failed attempt to remedy terrible paint peel (minus the ding in the rear). I paid $1700 and figured I could get rid of it for $2400 pretty easy. So far I $80 in it. Being optimistic that I'll find a short or bad ground that magically fixes everything.

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