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Found 5 results

  1. I had the factory 4.3 infotainment system with no Uconnect or bluetooth and when I was putting the aftermarket Metra dash kit and sub in, I searched for what the connections behind the factory unit were for. Didn't find too much, so if you are looking to upgrade, maybe the pictures I am including will help...
  2. Full stereo upgrade

    Finally made the decision to redo my stereo. May have gone a lil bit overboard but hay what's the worst that can happen lol. Still need to finishing tuning stereo and building trim piece to wall it off but so far sounding good. 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D4 15s 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D4 12s 4 Alpine 6x9s 2 Kicker 3.5s in dash Soundstream Tarantula T1.6000DL Subs wired in parallel to 0.5 ohms WestCoast Customs WCC1500.1 mono amp made by MB Quart for 2 door speakers to be added later WestCoast Customs WCC1600.4 4 channel amp running to 6x9s in doors Kenwood DDX774BT Double Din head unit XS Power D925 battery 1/0 wire wire Reason i decided on running both 12s and 15 is to have a wider range in frequencies.
  3. After 24 days I finally got my Pioneer 10” slim sub installed to my satisfaction. My goal was to make it easy to remove so that the trunk could still be fully used for luggage for a family of 5 and to be able to put the back row up without removal. I decided to use large a quick connect/disconnect for my power and ground and a smaller quick connect/disconnect for my amp remote turn-on wire. For those looking to fill in for the low end that’s missing from door/dash speakers this Pioneer 10” sub matched with a Pioneer Class-D mono amp is perfect. It’s also high powered enough to rattle the license plate, if that’s your preference. I ran the power cable from the battery (see previous How To post) down the driver’s side (left) to the rear. I like how easy it is to pop off the trim panels and hide the cabling. It is then routed across the vehicle’s driver side to the passenger’s side (right) under the 3rd Row seat where the back folds. Doing this avoids pinch points. I used a stiff wire hanger to fish the cables through. Taping it on with some electrical tape makes it easy to pull across. I chose the passenger’s side as the location for the amp and sub as the amp’s power inputs are on its right side and it was easier to hide the cables. Note: this slim sub and amp will fit, height wise, under the driver’s seat. It will stick out about 6-8” and I decided against that as it would block the floor compartment and my kids feet would beat it up. The RCA and remote turn-on cables went down the passengers side. I bolted the ground terminal ring under the 3rd Row seats to a bolt in the middle holding the seats down. It was the only bolt in the area without paint. The bolt was too large for the terminal ring so I slide the terminal under and bolted it down with prejudice. It isn’t going anywhere and it’s well grounded. The RCA cables were run up past the 3rd Row seat and then tucked along the channel of the trunk compartment lid. To crimp the terminals for the power and ground quick connect/disconnect I decided against buying a 4AWG crimping tool for a one time use. I used a jack stand as an avil, a torx impact bit, and a hammer. I crimped the terminals on 4 sides and it seems to be holding well. It’s definitely not the recommended way but it’s still safe. My wife thinks it’s large and takes up more room than she realized it would but since I’ve added the quick connect/disconnects she’s happy. Anyone with questions on how to wire their Dodge Journey’s audio system, feel free to ask. I’ve ripped he vehicle apart and learned a few things in the process. Let me know what you think! My system Speakers Dash: Infinity Reference 3.5” 3022cf Front Doors: Kenwood eXcelon 6.5” 3-way - Discontinued Rear Doors: Infinity PR9603IS 6X9" 90W 3-Way Primus Series Sub: Pioneer 10” Shallow Mount TS-SWX2502 Amp Pioneer GM-D8601 Class D Mono Amp Headunit Pioneer 4100NEX Pioneer CD-MC20 Auto-EQ Mic Metra Turbo Kit - moves the climate controls down and puts head unit where climate was. Requires 4.3” screen (basically becomes climate controls all the time) Access ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface Cables New England Providore 4AWG CCA Wiring Kit with Power, 100A Fuse, Ground, Speaker wire, Remote turn-on wire, and RCA. HYCLAT Battery/Ground Quick Connect/Disconnect Terminals
  4. I just received a sub (the excellent 10” Pioneer TS-SWX2502) and amp (amazingly small 1600w mono Pioneer GM-D8601 amp) for Christmas and went to run power through the firewall of my 2015 (automatic/no clutch) and could not locate a grommet that wasn’t in use. I read a lot of threads talking about where there is a 2” one but no one had pictures and I couldn’t locate it myself. After an hour I found it by accident. It’s just to the left of the brake booster and hidden under the rubber mat. Its right underneath the protruding rubber square. This rubber square pulls away and off to reveal a massive 2.5” grommet. From there it’s trivial to wire it to the the posts (near the drivers shock tower). You used to be able to get through the drivers door grommet but that no longer exists on the 2015 (you should avoid possible pinch points anyway). It seems that as Dodge is refining the Journey’s design they’re making it more difficult to install aftermarket accessories. Why hide the grommet at all? It serves as a fireblock but once it’s permanently removed that is no longer the case so why have it there? Anyway, I thought I’d post this to help anyone else installing aftermarket power for an audio system. Hole in Firewall after rubber and 2.5” grommet have been removed: A closer shot. You can see where the rubber mat was removed: From the hood (driver’s side): A closer shot from the hood: The 2.5” grommet (top) and square rubber piece that hides the grommet: Just to show how they fit together while installed:
  5. I currentely just bought a 2009 dodge journey r/t . With the infinity package, it comes with a sub and amp how would i unhook that and put my sub and amp to the stock radio propperly.