Lobitz68

Is this the premium stereo or the standard stereo?

Something like this? If so, it says it weighs 400lbs. I would assume that is dry weight (nothing but the trailer and its components), but even after adding propane and supplies you should be just fine... http://www.usedvending.com/i/Ventura-Towable-Hot-Dog-Cart-/GA-Q-794F

Damn, I hate that I can't see some pics from work...

Can't see the pics from work so I googled the name... Which ones did you get, the black machined? Chrome?

Kind of what I figured. That being said, if they can't be more functional they may as well look better. Great upgrade, looks very nice.

There should be some Alpine badges in the cabin as well I believe...

I would be glad that the vehicle noticed a problem and turned the AWD off before something broke... I guess I'm a glass half full kind of guy. As already stated, perfectly safe.

I guess we agree to disagree on this one!

More info please...

Agreed... It looks SO out of place...

You HAVE to use resistors, no way around it. Mount them to metal away from anything that can melt. No big deal...

Yeah, I'd be interested in seeing the light output against a while with just fogs on... Looks good!

55w is going to be crazy bright for oncoming traffic. 35w would have more than sufficed. I am curious to see how the fog light ones turn out. The factory bulbs are like 24w or something and the housing is definitely plastic, I hope it doesn't get too hot. Did the bulbs you got for the fogs have caps on the end? I ask because most fogs (ours included) don't have the little blinders on them and the light will go EVERYWHERE. You may end up being okay with the headlights (the cutoff is decent on the cars, though there will be scatter) and blinding everyone with the fogs. Could you post pics against a wall with just the fogs on once you get them?? Very curious how it all turns out.

I'm curious how they safely spark the gasses in the bulb with the factory wiring. The initial draw of HIDs far exceeds the safe operating limits of the high AWG factory headlight wiring. While they may guarantee that they work, do they cover the expenses to replace the consumer's vehicle after it burns to the ground from a fire? To each their own, but the CORRECT way to wire HIDs is to provide wiring capable of safely handling the requirements of the lights which can only be done by replacing the wiring in the vehicle or using a relay and providing power straight from the power source. The relay does nothing but allow power from the battery to reach the ballast. It is not there to stop flickering or be some magic force, it is for safety purposes. I would venture to guess that the kit you bought has the resistors and capacitors built into it and that you are buying the same thing you already tried (though they are likely using the correct components and you may not have). I wish you good luck with your purchase and look forward to pics.

WOW... I would call a different dealer. Is that an option??? It is part of the Chrysler warranty!

I guess if it is really important there are other way around it. For instance, one could fabricate something to elevate one end of the bags when you needed to fit a bunch of bags in the car. Would be a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a bigger vehicle...

Generally an oem tire is a harder tire which provides longer life. There is likely also some financial reason behind the decision to use this tire. I wouldn't put too much into the engineers decision process on tires. There are a number of tires that could have been used, they chose one that they felt was appropriate. The T rated tire will likely have a shorter life than the H rated tire and may even provide less fuel efficiency, but those numbers are likely negligible. Since the priority here is safety, I think that the ratings tell her that the tire is a more than sufficient replacement for her oem tires.

From what I can tell, the T rated tire is more than sufficient. Lets look at what the numbers actually mean... The number is the "Load Rating". Your factory Kuhmos are 100H... The "100" designates that this tire has a load rating of 1,764 lbs per tire. Your aftermarket choice is a 102T. The "102" designates that this tire has a load rating of 1,874 lbs per tire (an improvement!). The letter in these label is the "Speed Rating" and the "H" designates a maximum speed capability of 130 mph where the "T" designates a maximum speed capability of 118 mph. Since your concern lies in the safety of your child, I highly doubt you ever reach speeds beyond the capability of the "T" rated tire and see no reason why that wouldn't be more than acceptable of a choice for you and your family. Hope that helps.

I would really consider scrapping the upgrade and just purchasing nicer components for you current setup. Doing the entire swap is going to cost as much as probably 2 brake jobs using replacement parts of a higher quality. I understand that the brakes are a little too small for the Journey, but a higher quality rotor and pad will easily make up for that at a fraction of the cost. Regardless of what you decide, please report back with your impressions... Good luck!

May have to go through your dealer...

Out of curiosity, when did Dodge move to the proximity key with the push button start?

If you look at pics of HID installations on the forum it is fairly obvious that the housing are designed for halogens. The shield helps, but the biggest design factor for HID reflector housing is the bulb depth (i.e., how far away the hot spot on the bulb is from the reflector) and bulb angle (the angle of the bulb in relation to the mounting face of the bulb base). I will admit that the late model Chrysler reflector housings are an improvement over past design and that scatter is less than before, but it is still pretty prevalent. This bulb depth/angle issue is another reason that buying a $30 HID set produces a lower quality light. Manufacturing specs on most cheap kits are loose and therefore you have a lot of variability in where exactly the hot spot on the bulb is. I'm not going to be the projector HID Nazi on the forum... I just think that more information is better. If you want to really understand the science behind lighting design there are plenty of great resources on the web. I would suggest going with a high quality bulb with tight tolerances on the bulb specs if you decide to keep your reflector housing. The Retrofit Source provides a very nice kit with ceramic bases and precisely angled bulbs that will give you much better results. Good luck and please share your experiences.

I have not. I would do your research about bulb life, lumens and cost before determining what you want. Their isn't typically much room for improvement on a standardized bulb and any slight improvement may be quickly negated by cost and bulb life.

Unplug the wires on the back of the bulb, twist the bulb and pull... piece of cake.

Maybe if it were actually funny it would be fun. I was asking a simple question and it got into how I expect too much (because I was curious if I could retain the options I already have?), whatever that means. I'm not ruffled at all, but it is annoying as hell. It's easy enough to ignore someone, no big deal...