AstralRT

I expect to take some heat for this on this forum, however I have to base my opinion on my own experiences.

Do yourself a huge favor and put your money on a Toyota or Honda.  As Scotty would say "Chryslers are endless money pits" and based on my experience I have to agree.
Three of my Honda's have cost me a fraction of the maintenance that my Dodge as cost me, and I bought the thing brand new and it came direct from the factory with my name on the window sticker, no other drivers or even test drivers beyond the 12 km used in transporting the thing on/off the truck/train.
 
I've learned my lesson and rather spend more upfront on a reliable Toyota or Honda and have a solid vehicle for 10+ years than save on the purchase only to be spending through the nose on constant repairs.

To put it in context I have a 2003 CRV with 381000+ km, 2004 CRV with 235000+ km and 2006 civic with 130000+ km.  All only ever needing regular maintenance such as brakes and oil changes. (Thats approx. 746000 km without much worry or hassle)

My 2012 DJ R/T , on top of brakes and tires and other scheduled maintenance has needed a new cam shaft, lifters, viscous coupler, wheel hub, thermostat, blend door actuator, blue tooth unit, battery, rad fan, replacement of lock lug nuts because the lock key split in half due to dealer putting them on with their impact power tools and the factory tire wrench warpping because the lug nuts were put on so tight from dealer, and two lug nuts (so far) that have stripped their cheap chrome caps even after I put them on myself according to torque spec.  This DJ has now 206000+ km but problems started as early as 80,000 km.

I'm honestly at the point where I am giving this thing away to a family member that is in desperate need of a vehicle and I am washing my hands of it.  They have full disclosure of the history and are ok with it considering the vehicle is free for them    I suspect I'll still be pulled into working on it for them, but at least the worry and cost won't be mine and I'll keep driving my old Honda's worry free.

Bottom line: I feel betrayed by Fiat/Dodge and can't recommend them based on my experience.  If you do get one, keep it under warranty and dump it as soon as warranty is over.  Thats my honest opinion. 

Avoid the Dodge Journey....even if it's given to you...!!!!
I've been a faithful Chrysler owner for decades.  Always had good luck with them....until now.
It's poorly designed and will cost you big bucks to repair their mistakes.
Poor design number 1 - First, look for the battery.   It's in a nearly impossible location to remove and replace.  HINT: It's hidden next the front wheel..!!
Poor design number 2 - Then, there's the wiring harness between the rear hatch and the main body.  Wires are fed through a flexible 'hose' located in a spot that gets a lot of flexing from frequent opening and closing the hatch.  This eventually causes the wires inside to break and you lose your hatch lights.  Get familiar with how to use a soldering iron to fix the broken wires.  I never had this problem with any of my Chrysler mini-vans.
And I saved the best for last.....
Poor design number 3 - Changing from the old, familiar canister oil filter to a cartridge type which is mounted ABOVE the engine in an 'Oil Filter/Oil Cooler' assembly.
Both coolant and oil pass through this thing and it eventually leaks from the O-rings and can only be repaired by removing the entire top of the engine to get to it.
It cost me over $800 last week to have it replaced with a new one.  Do a search on YouTube for several videos showing what's involved.
Naturally both the Factory and Extended Warranty had expired.  So with only 77K on it, it's time for a Honda or Toyota.  No more Chrysler products...!!!
 

 

you could do a reverse heater core flush. look on you tube for heater core quick replacement video.i would start with the thermostat replacement first as it would be the cheapest, find both the heater core hoses before they go Thur the firewall and see if they both are hot and warm or hot and cold, and i did just have a friend that spent a bunch of money fixing a no heat problem they replaced everything including the heater core and then she said they finally found out it was the oil cooler unit causing the problem i dont see how it could be that but the oil cooler does run coolant thur it as well.... good luck and keep us informed

I expect to take some heat for this on this forum, however I have to base my opinion on my own experiences.

Do yourself a huge favor and put your money on a Toyota or Honda.  As Scotty would say "Chryslers are endless money pits" and based on my experience I have to agree.
Three of my Honda's have cost me a fraction of the maintenance that my Dodge as cost me, and I bought the thing brand new and it came direct from the factory with my name on the window sticker, no other drivers or even test drivers beyond the 12 km used in transporting the thing on/off the truck/train.
 
I've learned my lesson and rather spend more upfront on a reliable Toyota or Honda and have a solid vehicle for 10+ years than save on the purchase only to be spending through the nose on constant repairs.

To put it in context I have a 2003 CRV with 381000+ km, 2004 CRV with 235000+ km and 2006 civic with 130000+ km.  All only ever needing regular maintenance such as brakes and oil changes. (Thats approx. 746000 km without much worry or hassle)

My 2012 DJ R/T , on top of brakes and tires and other scheduled maintenance has needed a new cam shaft, lifters, viscous coupler, wheel hub, thermostat, blend door actuator, blue tooth unit, battery, rad fan, replacement of lock lug nuts because the lock key split in half due to dealer putting them on with their impact power tools and the factory tire wrench warpping because the lug nuts were put on so tight from dealer, and two lug nuts (so far) that have stripped their cheap chrome caps even after I put them on myself according to torque spec.  This DJ has now 206000+ km but problems started as early as 80,000 km.

I'm honestly at the point where I am giving this thing away to a family member that is in desperate need of a vehicle and I am washing my hands of it.  They have full disclosure of the history and are ok with it considering the vehicle is free for them    I suspect I'll still be pulled into working on it for them, but at least the worry and cost won't be mine and I'll keep driving my old Honda's worry free.

Bottom line: I feel betrayed by Fiat/Dodge and can't recommend them based on my experience.  If you do get one, keep it under warranty and dump it as soon as warranty is over.  Thats my honest opinion. 

I picked up a used Viscous at the wreckers for $20 CAD and 20 mins of personal labour.
I'll update once I get around to putting it on.
 
I realize a used one like this is a gamble, but compared to the cost of new, its worth a shot.

Would you happen to still have the link to that video?  Looks like I have the same problem and my dealer wants $900+tax CAD to replace the entire pump.

Finally had time and called FCA Canada Customer Care to confirm the details on TSB 09-002-14

In Canada the warranty is extended to 120 months (10 years) and 240,000 km (Approx. 150,000 miles) and the fix will be done by the dealership under X56 Warranty Extension.
I was concerned they would limit Canada to 150,000 km as companies like to do with other warranty mileage when comparing USA to Canada.  I was pleased to see they did the right thing here.  I have requested a service appointment from a local dealership and hopefully fix my engine troubles.
 
TSB details in attached PDF
 
TSB_LC_0900214.pdf

Finally had time and called FCA Canada Customer Care to confirm the details on TSB 09-002-14

In Canada the warranty is extended to 120 months (10 years) and 240,000 km (Approx. 150,000 miles) and the fix will be done by the dealership under X56 Warranty Extension.
I was concerned they would limit Canada to 150,000 km as companies like to do with other warranty mileage when comparing USA to Canada.  I was pleased to see they did the right thing here.  I have requested a service appointment from a local dealership and hopefully fix my engine troubles.
 
TSB details in attached PDF
 
TSB_LC_0900214.pdf

Finally had time and called FCA Canada Customer Care to confirm the details on TSB 09-002-14

In Canada the warranty is extended to 120 months (10 years) and 240,000 km (Approx. 150,000 miles) and the fix will be done by the dealership under X56 Warranty Extension.
I was concerned they would limit Canada to 150,000 km as companies like to do with other warranty mileage when comparing USA to Canada.  I was pleased to see they did the right thing here.  I have requested a service appointment from a local dealership and hopefully fix my engine troubles.
 
TSB details in attached PDF
 
TSB_LC_0900214.pdf

ive never understood why most lug nuts come with a cap. ive had issues with and replaced every set ive came across

these are solid lug nuts from a quality manufacture, you would need 5 packs  times $11.49  there are also some cheaper ones that most people think are 1 solid piece but the manufacture says no they are 2 but they wont come apart like the oem ones do,,, they run about $ 25 for a set...........this is from amazon       McGard 64012 Chrome Bulge Cone Seat Style Lug Nuts (M12 x 1.5 Thread Size) - Set of 4
4.4 out of 5 stars    139 customer reviews  
| 29 answered questions       List Price: $13.83  Price: $11.49 Free Shipping for Prime Members You Save: $2.34 (17%)   Your cost could be $1.49. Eligible customers get a $10 bonus when reloading $100.       In Stock.       Want it Friday, May 18? Order within 19 hrs 17 mins and choose One-Day Shipping at checkout. Details Ships from and sold by Amazon.com.             Color: Chrome $11.49     $15.99         1.45" Overall Length M12 x 1.5 Thread Size 3/4" Hex Size Cone Seat Style Lug Nuts Set of 4 Lug Nuts

2late4u is right again.
 
I replaced all the crappy lug nuts on our Journey with solid nuts. 40 bucks including taxes.  All the caps were peeling off the old ones.
 
Your problem nut could be stripped because it might have been put on crooked with an air gun.  Not fun to take off.  If the cap was rounded, it would pull right off the nut.  The nuts are easy to take off when the caps are missing.  It has no effect on the nut if the cap is missing.
 
Good luck with that bad nut.  Most tire shops have a special socket that can catch the nut and take it off for you.
 
mechanical-idiot

use to have problems with the caps coming off the lug nuts (cheap nuts from chry) mostly caused from air guns over torquing the lug nuts. you might have to drill it out. before doing this go on amazon and order you a complete set of solid lug nuts cost is quiet reasonable ( $ 20-30)and also use a torque wrench from now on when putting the lug nuts back on.
 

If I ever do this job I'll post the step by step pics but I'm still a whiles away from replacing them...I'm looking forward to do this job as I'm sure the cost savings and challenge will be rewarding.

Let me know if there is anything else you need instructions on.

Upper
UPPER





NOTE

Prior to installing the upper intake manifold, verify that the four fuel rail bolts were not inadvertently loosened. The bolts must tightened in the sequence shown to 7 N·m (62 in. lbs.) (Refer to Fuel System/Fuel Delivery/RAIL, Fuel - Installation)(Refer To List 1).







Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces. Install new upper to lower intake manifold seals (1).


NOTE

Make sure the fuel injectors and wiring harnesses are in the correct position so that they don't interfere with the upper intake manifold installation.





If removed, install the insulator (2) to the two alignment posts (3) on top of the LH cylinder head cover.






Lift and hold the seven upper intake attaching bolts (1) clear of the mating surface. Back the bolts out slightly or if required, use an elastic band to hold the bolts clear of the mating surface.



Position the upper intake manifold (1) onto the lower intake manifold so that the two locating posts (2) on the upper intake manifold align with corresponding holes (3) in the lower intake manifold.






Install the seven upper intake manifold attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.).






Install two nuts (1) to the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Tighten the nuts (1) to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.) and tighten the studbolt (2) to 20 N·m (177 in. lbs.)



Engage the wire harness retainer (3) to the studbolt (2).



Engage the wire harness retainer (4) to the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).






Install two upper intake manifold support brackets (2) with two studbolts (3) and two nuts (1). Tighten the studbolts (3) to 20 N·m (177 in. lbs.) and tighten the nuts (1) to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.).






Install the nut (2) to the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1) and tighten to 12 N·m (106 in. lbs.).






Connect the following hoses to the upper intake manifold:


Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3)



vapor purge (6)



brake booster (2)




Connect the electrical connectors to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7).



Secure the ETC harness to the clip (7) on the throttle body and engage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) to the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor.






Install the resonator (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Installation).






Connect the negative battery cable and tighten nut to 5 N·m (45 in. lbs.).



Start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.



Install the engine cover (1).

3.6L
3.6L





Check and adjust the spark plug gap with a gap gauging tool (1) (Refer to Electrical/8I - Ignition Control - Specifications)





CAUTION

Special care should be taken when installing spark plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as electrodes can be damaged.




CAUTION

The spark plug tubes (1) are a thin wall design. Avoid damaging the spark plug tubes. Damage to the spark plug tube can result in oil leaks.





Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand to avoid cross threading.


CAUTION

Spark plug torque is critical and must not exceed the specified value. Overtightening stretches the spark plug shell reducing its heat transfer capability resulting in possible catastrophic engine failure.





Tighten the spark plugs to 18 N·m (13 ft. lbs.).





NOTE

The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar.

3.6L
3.6L





NOTE

The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar.




Remove the ignition coil (2) (Refer to Electrical/8I - Ignition Control/COIL, Ignition - Removal).






Prior to removing the spark plug, spray compressed air into the cylinder head opening. This will help prevent foreign material from entering the combustion chamber.


CAUTION

The spark plug tubes (1) are a thin wall design. Avoid damaging the spark plug tubes. Damage to the spark plug tube can result in oil leaks.





Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head using a quality thin wall socket with a rubber or foam insert.

Upper
UPPER





Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.



Remove the engine cover (1).






Remove the resonator (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal).






Disconnect the electrical connectors from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7).



Disengage the ETC harness from the clip (8) on the throttle body. Disengage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) from the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor and reposition the wire harness.



Disconnect the following hoses from the upper intake manifold:


Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3)



vapor purge (6)



brake booster (2)








Disengage the wire harness retainer (4) from the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).



Disengage the wire harness retainer (3) from the studbolt (2).



Remove two nuts (1), loosen the studbolt (2) and reposition the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).






Remove the nut (2) from the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1).






Remove two nuts (1), loosen two studbolts (3) and reposition the two upper intake manifold support brackets (2).





NOTE

The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold.




NOTE

Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts.





Remove seven manifold attaching bolts (1) and remove the upper intake manifold (2).






Remove and discard the six upper to lower intake manifold seals (1).



Cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine.

Well, if you read what the thread has to say you will discover that it apparently covers vehicles up to some point past the start of the 2013 model year and that if yours was newer that that you could probably make a case (if not to FCA, then to a small claims court judge) that it be covered.

Why you would park a vehicle without getting a diagnosis is beyond me, but assuming you can even start the vehicle after leaving it sit for 6 months, and assuming that the code hasn't cleared from the ECU because you let the battery go flat, the first thing to do is to read the code.

See what Redtomatoman wrote above and then do it.  you can read the code yourself, you can ask a garage or a buddy with a reader to extract the code or, you can go to the dealer and pay them a few bucks for the diagnostic.

Once you've determined that it is the appropriate code or not you can make a decision as to what the next step is;  At the very least you are likely going to have to buy a new battery and replace a bunch of fluids if you plan to put the vehicle back on the road.

You need to find another dealer then.  

Go to Mopar.com, to the owners page, make an account and put in your vin.  You will then have access to see what dealer repairs were made, what warranty you have, etc.    very useful when you deal with a crappy dealer.  It will also help you find the closest dealers....pick a new one.
 
Good luck!

You mean new cars don’t fix themselves when left alone???   Dammm.....
 

Is this relative to the 2012 8.4n system as well? This exact thing happened to me tonight. Everything is working except audio. Even the audio settings under "more" is disabled. Planning on calling the dealer in the morning and taking a look myself, but was sure how relatives the systems are.

Unfortunately I'm just over 150k now, no more warranty