Journey_SeXT

1979 Camaro
1989 Hyundai Sonata
1990 Acura Integra
1996 Honda Civic
1999 Honda CR-v
1999 GMC Savanna
2008 Chevrolet Aveo
2011 Dodge Journey
2014 Hyundai Accent

I stumbled upon this and thought it would be useful for any DIY's who are thinking of doing there own coolant flush.
http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2010_Dodge_Journey_SXT_3.5L_V6/coolant_antifreeze/flush_coolant

Hmmm, strange you didn't get the battery low message. Maybe you had a software update of recent and they have it worded differently.....maybe something to get people down to the dealership? Thanks for the feedback HP!!

Most likely a parasitic draw on the battery that drains it. Here is an excellent how to video if you would like to find what the culprit is on your own:

3.6L
3.6L





Check and adjust the spark plug gap with a gap gauging tool (1) (Refer to Electrical/8I - Ignition Control - Specifications)





CAUTION

Special care should be taken when installing spark plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as electrodes can be damaged.




CAUTION

The spark plug tubes (1) are a thin wall design. Avoid damaging the spark plug tubes. Damage to the spark plug tube can result in oil leaks.





Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand to avoid cross threading.


CAUTION

Spark plug torque is critical and must not exceed the specified value. Overtightening stretches the spark plug shell reducing its heat transfer capability resulting in possible catastrophic engine failure.





Tighten the spark plugs to 18 N·m (13 ft. lbs.).





NOTE

The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar.

Most likely a parasitic draw on the battery that drains it. Here is an excellent how to video if you would like to find what the culprit is on your own:

If I ever do this job I'll post the step by step pics but I'm still a whiles away from replacing them...I'm looking forward to do this job as I'm sure the cost savings and challenge will be rewarding.

Let me know if there is anything else you need instructions on.

Upper
UPPER





NOTE

Prior to installing the upper intake manifold, verify that the four fuel rail bolts were not inadvertently loosened. The bolts must tightened in the sequence shown to 7 N·m (62 in. lbs.) (Refer to Fuel System/Fuel Delivery/RAIL, Fuel - Installation)(Refer To List 1).







Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces. Install new upper to lower intake manifold seals (1).


NOTE

Make sure the fuel injectors and wiring harnesses are in the correct position so that they don't interfere with the upper intake manifold installation.





If removed, install the insulator (2) to the two alignment posts (3) on top of the LH cylinder head cover.






Lift and hold the seven upper intake attaching bolts (1) clear of the mating surface. Back the bolts out slightly or if required, use an elastic band to hold the bolts clear of the mating surface.



Position the upper intake manifold (1) onto the lower intake manifold so that the two locating posts (2) on the upper intake manifold align with corresponding holes (3) in the lower intake manifold.






Install the seven upper intake manifold attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.).






Install two nuts (1) to the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Tighten the nuts (1) to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.) and tighten the studbolt (2) to 20 N·m (177 in. lbs.)



Engage the wire harness retainer (3) to the studbolt (2).



Engage the wire harness retainer (4) to the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).






Install two upper intake manifold support brackets (2) with two studbolts (3) and two nuts (1). Tighten the studbolts (3) to 20 N·m (177 in. lbs.) and tighten the nuts (1) to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.).






Install the nut (2) to the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1) and tighten to 12 N·m (106 in. lbs.).






Connect the following hoses to the upper intake manifold:


Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3)



vapor purge (6)



brake booster (2)




Connect the electrical connectors to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7).



Secure the ETC harness to the clip (7) on the throttle body and engage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) to the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor.






Install the resonator (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Installation).






Connect the negative battery cable and tighten nut to 5 N·m (45 in. lbs.).



Start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.



Install the engine cover (1).

3.6L
3.6L





Check and adjust the spark plug gap with a gap gauging tool (1) (Refer to Electrical/8I - Ignition Control - Specifications)





CAUTION

Special care should be taken when installing spark plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as electrodes can be damaged.




CAUTION

The spark plug tubes (1) are a thin wall design. Avoid damaging the spark plug tubes. Damage to the spark plug tube can result in oil leaks.





Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand to avoid cross threading.


CAUTION

Spark plug torque is critical and must not exceed the specified value. Overtightening stretches the spark plug shell reducing its heat transfer capability resulting in possible catastrophic engine failure.





Tighten the spark plugs to 18 N·m (13 ft. lbs.).





NOTE

The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar.

3.6L
3.6L





NOTE

The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar.




Remove the ignition coil (2) (Refer to Electrical/8I - Ignition Control/COIL, Ignition - Removal).






Prior to removing the spark plug, spray compressed air into the cylinder head opening. This will help prevent foreign material from entering the combustion chamber.


CAUTION

The spark plug tubes (1) are a thin wall design. Avoid damaging the spark plug tubes. Damage to the spark plug tube can result in oil leaks.





Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head using a quality thin wall socket with a rubber or foam insert.

Upper
UPPER





Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.



Remove the engine cover (1).






Remove the resonator (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal).






Disconnect the electrical connectors from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7).



Disengage the ETC harness from the clip (8) on the throttle body. Disengage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) from the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor and reposition the wire harness.



Disconnect the following hoses from the upper intake manifold:


Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3)



vapor purge (6)



brake booster (2)








Disengage the wire harness retainer (4) from the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).



Disengage the wire harness retainer (3) from the studbolt (2).



Remove two nuts (1), loosen the studbolt (2) and reposition the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).






Remove the nut (2) from the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1).






Remove two nuts (1), loosen two studbolts (3) and reposition the two upper intake manifold support brackets (2).





NOTE

The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold.




NOTE

Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts.





Remove seven manifold attaching bolts (1) and remove the upper intake manifold (2).






Remove and discard the six upper to lower intake manifold seals (1).



Cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine.

Hey webslave, doesn't your Journey have the ability to use flex fuel?

Here is info on replacing the thermostat in your Journey if your are doing it yourself:
3.5L Engine
WARNING Do not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain cooling system.
Remove engine cover.
Disconnect radiator upper hose from thermostat housing.
Remove thermostat housing bolts.
Remove housing, thermostat, and gasket.
Thermostat—3.5L engine
To install:
Clean gasket sealing surfaces.
Install thermostat and gasket into thermostat housing. For ease of installation, install bolts in housing for thermostat and gasket retention.
Install thermostat and housing to Intake manifold. Tighten bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Connect radiator hoses and install hose clamp.
Install the engine cover.
Refill cooling system.
Connect negative cable.

$400.00 for a reman.....I just choked on my coffee seeing that.

Mine came in too!!

It's too bad this is not like the other forum I frequent where they went with a new format but you still have the option to switch back to the classic format.

Yah, that I would imagine will be a major uphill battle to get a warranty claim on as most (if not all) dealers will use any excuse possible to say the issue is not from the paint but caused by a stone chip, salt or whatever.  I hope the OP gets a resolution to this issue.

It's too bad this is not like the other forum I frequent where they went with a new format but you still have the option to switch back to the classic format.

Have you cleaned the surface with a clay bar?

...or if they don't have the manual they can download the owners manual here: http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/

I can't believe that we are still addressing this question.
Just a simple google search typing "how to reset oil light on 2012 dodge journey"
and look what was at the top of the list.

We've also covered this many times in other threads.
BTW welcome to the forum!!

DJ sat all night. No noise on cold start up. Sounds normal again. I forgot to mention in my last update that all the left side lifters and rocker arms ended up being replaced as the tech initially thought the cold start sound was coming from the lifters. So they opened my engine for the cylinder head replacement and they opened the engine again for the lifter and rocker arm replacement. I just hope all this engine work got the original engineering gremlins out and it doesn't lead to engine problems over time. I hope to keep my DJ for a long time.
Maybe I'll wash my DJ this weekend. Clean cars always run better. . . Ha!
Peace.

There is a STAR case which deals with this issue. It involves replacing the Transmission Range Sensor (essentially the Neutral Safety Switch) and adding a redundant ground in the same circuit. We've done it a few times and it solves the problem.

Rock Auto has always been a great option for me as most parts I need they offer both genuine and aftermarket.