Summer Solstice

Have to wonder if you have an intermittent connection on a connector you would have taken off to change injectors or plugs? A plug not firing would cause fuel to remain unburned.
 
Sometimes the alcohol content may run high and needs to be reset. That takes the correct equipment.

The power steering hose gods are sending me a gift (or setting me up for a cruel joke).  After about a month wait, the hoses arrived yesterday in the AM, AND the weather yesterday and today is unseasonably warm, in the 50f's, AND I had previously, randomly, scheduled the day off to use up unused vacation days.  I took the opportunity to replace the hoses.
 
*** TAKE NOTE ***  If you are planning to do this repair and you are a driveway mechanic (with just basic+ tool inventory), you will need a 18mm crowfoot flare tool.  Prior, to prep for this repair, I had purchased a metric crowfoot flare set at HF.  I now know it does NOT include 18mm.  I had not researched the size I would need, I figured I'd be good with a 'set'.  In hindsight you may be able to get by with a 18mm crowfoot flare wrench (but I dont own those either).
 
UGH! As I found out when I went to remove the old hoses , I didn't have the correct 18mm crowfoot flare tool, I used a dremel tool and file to grind out the 17mm in the HF set to 18mm.
 
Replacement is straight forward.  The same 2 bolts hold them both to the frame with a hose connection at each end.  The rub is the high pressure connection at the power steering pump.  While on your back in the driveway, its at a full arms length in, and once your arm is in, you cant see it.  After the usual set of 4 letter words, grunts, groans, and dropped tools, that connection was completed.  I hope its tight enough.  I'm no longer in my 20's.  My arm strength is no longer what it used to be.  Initial test drive was successful.  I'll check Saturday afternoon for leaks.
 
I refilled the P/S system with Valvoline power steering fluid and did not bleed it.
 
I'll provide an update.
 
 
 
 
High Pressure P/S Hose

 
Low Pressure P/S Hose

 
 
The 'easy' hose connections. 
Low pressure (silver) in on top.
High pressure (black) below it.

 
 
High Pressure P/S connection on the power steering pump (black).  This is the beast to reach.

 
 
Another view of the same, from the ground looking up.

 
 

For all that I've ben around, I could write a book on the "fails" I've seen over the years. BUT the best. ./worst one was the Pontiac transport/Lumina APV back around 1990. To replace SPARK PLUGS REMOVE Engine/trans/front sub frame as a UNIT.
I left the profession shortly after encountering one of them when I worked for a year at a local GM dealer. Moan as much as you want working on your Journey folks, I've seen and been thru a LOT WORSE.

First off welcome to the group .............so does your gas gage work when you fill it up from empty? I assume you are talking about the info telling you what you have left before running out ( distance till empty)....if your fuel tank is full and the gas gage is saying empty then replacing the fuel pump/level float  in your tank would be the answer unless you have some bad wiring somewhere between the tank causing the problem,,,if its just the distance till empty info sensor then I believe you are out of luck as your journey is at least 14 yrs old   and I have never heard anyone else complain of this problem...good luck and please report back on what ever you find out to your problem for others to learn from it....You could try to do a reset by removing the cables from the battery post I am not sure if yours has the battery disconnect near the upper firewall that we have on the newer journey but let it stay disconnected for around 20 minutes or so and then reconnect...does the same thing as if you are rebooting your computer might help and doesn't cost anything

The thumb drive needs to be FAT32 and the files need to be mp3. Sounds like you are already there but need to verify.

Did you check the reservoir tank for cracks or replace the radiator cap on the res. tank? IF that does not fix things, then you may be into deeper engine troubles.
Does this Journey have rear heat? Air entrapment in the cooling system is a big quirk on these motors when opening up the system. DO NOT "fill and go", run the engine with cap off{keeping an eye on digital temp}, shut down and let cool off, top up coolant if needed and then repeat BEFORE driving with cap installed. This has worked for me with my 3 Journey's.
 
Good luck, and please report back how things go.
AND welcome to the forum!

Need to bleed out the air with the bleeder screw on the plastic thermostat housing. Pumps don’t often fail, if they do the seal will spit fluid and make it obvious.
 
Check all clamps etc air might be getting in some where.

Prior experience,  on other domestic brands, has convinced me that, when it comes to sensors, OEM is the only way. Eliminates the trial and error.

Random update on the power steering cooler.  All is working well, no leaks.
 
In cleaning out my notes, Plews & Edelmann make an aftermarket p/s cooler for the DJ - P/N: 58040.  Its approx $130 from Summit.
I would have gone with it as it appears to have the correct mounting brackets, but I needed one fast and it was not in stock.
 
Have a safe Summer.
 

probally ,all the advise that has been  given on this site is to use an OEM part 

Front suspension:
DESCRIPTION
N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. COMMENT Brake Shield 10 7 89 Crossmember Mounting Bolts 135 100 — Crossmember Reinforcement Bracket Mounting
Screws 50 37 — Hub And Bearing Mounting Bolts 48 35 — Hub Nut 160 118 — Lower Ball Joint Stud Nut 95 70 — Lower Control Arm Front Pivot Bolt 175 129 — Lower Control Arm Rear Pivot Bolt Nut 145 107 — Stabilizer Bar Cushion Retainer Screws 60 44 — Stabilizer Bar Link Nuts 48 35 — Strut Clevis-to-Knuckle Nuts 140 103 — Strut Rod Nut 60 44 — Strut-to-Tower Nuts 55 41 — Tie Rod Adjuster Jam Nut 75 55 — Tie Rod End Knuckle Nut 85 63 — Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nuts 135 100  
Rear Suspension:
 
DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. COMMENT Brake Tube Bracket Knuckle Mounting Screw 21 15 — Brake Flex Hose Trailing Link Mounting Screw 20 15 — Hub And Bearing Mounting Bolts 60 44 — Hub Nut 245 181 — Do not
reuse these
fasteners.
If removed,
a new
fastener
must be
installed
and
tightened to
specifications. Lower Control Arm Knuckle Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Lower Control Arm Crossmember Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Lower Control Arm Crossmember Bracket to Body 61 45 — Shock Assembly Lower Mounting Bolt Nut 100 74 — Shock Assembly Upper Mounting Nuts 45 33 — Shock Rod Nut 30 22 — Stabilizer Bar Retainer Screws 25 18 — Stabilizer Link Mounting Nuts 100 74 — Toe Link Knuckle Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Toe Link Cam Bolt Nut 95 70 — Trailing Link Body Mounting Bolts 110 81 — Trailing Link Knuckle Mounting Bolts 80 59 — Upper Control Arm Knuckle Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 — Upper Control Arm Crossmember Mounting Bolt Nut 105 77 —  

Hey everyone,
 
I obtained the service manual for the dodge journey and now have access to the following torque specs so feel free to post in here if you need them: 
 
-Body 
-Brakes front + back
-Cooling system
-Engine system
-Exhaust system
-Fluids chart
-Front axle shaft
-Front engine mounts
-Front suspension system
-Rear axle shaft
-Rear suspension system
-Restraints system
-Steering column
-Steering system
 
 

Our journeys love a strong battery and will act crazy with a weak or bad battery,just charging it is not enough ,take it to be load tested at your local part store and also have them check the alt to make sure it is charging enough...also have them scan it for any codes that might have been stored as well   Welcome to the group as well

^^^^^ This....Batteries can cause a lot of issues and it's located in the left front wheel well so it's not an easy driveway job especially in the cold. Get yourself the best battery you can find

So far we have heated leather seats, 8.4 uconnect, factory alpine amp and sub, bluetooth, and auto dimming mirror all installed and functioning. I have the backup cam installed but image is afu. I will be ordering a new camera to hopefully fix it.
 
I still have the heated steering wheel, 120v inverter and auto climate control to get working.
 
Not bad for a few minutes,,err umm hours,,, well actually days invested. I probably have 16 hours total involved at this point. That is pulling the parts from the wrecked Journey and installing into our Journey. I work slow and an hour or two here and there. I am sure someone more agile than me could cut that time in half.

So last week I got in my DJ, drove off, and within a block it stalled and idled really roughly. The CEL came on as well as the traction control light so I immediately made a u-turn (as it died 3 times while doing it) and headed back home at a high speed of 20 MPH since it would not go any faster. After the typical reaction of SOB!!!!, I grabbed my reader and hooked it up to the car. Reader showed the following codes - P0345, P0390, P0339, P0365, P0365p/d - and all I could see was money signs flying away from me. Like your typical DIY'er I got on the computer and started looking it all up and it pointed to the Camshaft Position Sensor 1 & 2. Look up the part and it is a very affordable part...NICE!!! Unfortunately, to actually replace that cheap little sensor (X2) you have to dismantle the car and remove the intake manifold...DAMN. Well, I figured I am at 91K miles so might as well do the spark plugs, coils, and anything else that is called for in the 100K mile service AND I wanted the dealer to do it since I have not had any issues in the 7+ years I have owned the car. So I make a call to the local Dodge dealer and almost had a heart attack (Esther, I'm coming!!! for you older guys). The quote to get it all done was $2092 that also included a visual inspection of the brakes, hoses, belts, and fluids. Told them to remove that stuff I can do that myself - price dropped to $1982. They also mentioned that it would take some time to get the parts, about a week. 
 
Fast forward to the next day after I calmed down - I got on the internet to see how much parts would be if I did it all myself using instructions from this forum and YouTube, considering I have rebuilt cars in the past. I have no warranty issues to worry about and feel very comfortable doing this type of work. Here is the 'Holy Sh!&' moment. As I was searching the parts, there was an article on another Doge car that stated, "Make sure the connections are clean and tight on the sensor before doing anything else. You are able to reach the connectors without removing anything else". Hmmmm...I have nothing to lose so lets take a look. Headed to the car, started it up just in case it magically fixed itself and still got all of the codes. The car was idling rough and would not make it down the street without dying. So popped the hood, found the sensors, and cleaned them up really good. There was a bunch of dirt and some other crap on the connectors, so I made sure everything was off of them. Plugged them back in, got my code reader ready, and started her up. No CEL and no traction control light. I put her in Drive and she ran as smoth as the first day (or at least two days ago). Drove it a couple of miles jsut waiting for things to go bad, and NOTHING. Came back home, hooked up my reader and no coeds at all. It's now been 5 days of driving the DJ as I would normally and there has not been a single issue.
 
I am writing this because I always tell people to start with the basics before assuming. Sensors can be affected by a dying battery or a bad connection, which one of my mechanic friends reminded me of a couple of days later. I jumped to a very expensive conclusion and almost dropped the car off, if it wasn't for a delay in getting the parts in to the dealer. I am so thankful it worked out this way and I am still really glad I bought my DJ. Now I am starting to buy all of the parts for the 100k service and planning on doing it myslef this summer. 
 

Update. Got the new crankshaft sensor and started the task of installing it. What a pain in butt. The PTU was in the way since it is an AWD, but I was able to get creative and removed the crankshaft sensor and reinstall it without taking the Passenger drive shaft loose and taking the PTU out. I cleared the codes and tried starting the car. It started right up. I let it run for about 5 minutes and read the codes since the engine light came back on. It came up with P0032 O2 Sensor 1/1 Heater circuit High. I am thinking it may be a bad connection since I had it loose when I was working in that area. I am really glad that it was just the crankshaft sensor.
I really appreciate your help John. Great Insight. Thank you very much.

Look underneath the car, dead center. There is a silver colored heat shield that wraps over the exhaust and beneath the floor. If this comes loose, it will flap and rattle against the floor and sound like the storage bins are loose. It is held in place by 6 or 8 studs and nuts and can tear loose easily if something contacts it. It can be extremely loud and annoying. 

Look underneath the car, dead center. There is a silver colored heat shield that wraps over the exhaust and beneath the floor. If this comes loose, it will flap and rattle against the floor and sound like the storage bins are loose. It is held in place by 6 or 8 studs and nuts and can tear loose easily if something contacts it. It can be extremely loud and annoying. 

I fixed it !  
I took off the intake manifold.  Cleaned the runners (flaps) by spraying brake clean and a toothbrush.  Cleaned it while holding it upside down so everything dripped right out,.  Didn't let anything fall down into the manifold.  Cleaned the mating surfaces.  Cleaned the throttle body.  Replaced the intake gasket ($8) and throttle body gasket ($5).  Put it all back together and runs like a champ again.
 
Here is a link to a great video how to remove the intake manifold.  It is very doable, I am not a mechanic at all.  Learned everything from youtube in the last 4 years.  Didn't even know how to do an oil change before that.  You can do this!
 
The 2.4 is an awesome engine.  So easy to work on and learn how to do this stuff.  However I've never worked on any other engine so...
 
My goal is 250,000 miles.  Currently at 197,000.
 
Thanks for your help John/Horace and 2late4u !!!
 
 
 

OK - I see some of them now. 
 
Let me look into this - Goggle's auto serving ads and we'll have to see about adjusting these.
 
EDIT:
We turned some of these ads off.  It's the first time that auto serving has been turned on, so we'll have to play with it.

Ok. I have an update for your all. First, thank you once again for all the advice, experience shared, and suggestions. I did purchase the OEM unit and got it in today. I drove it at highway speeds for awhile and I see no new oil leaking so I think my nightmare is OVER. I had added UV dye to try and determine where the leak was. Looks like the leak was from at least one of the round plugs that are "welded" in place Which happens to be almost right over top of the area I had circled (and also the red arrow pointing to). It does look like it was leaking from that place as well. So this is the end of my thread. Thanks everyone!!!
 

The Dodge Journey is a good car that gets a lot of flak.

Pros:
Cheap,
old-ish school tech and maintnence,
quiet,
great seats,
and wonderfull highway cruiser.
3.6v6 brings 280hp to the playing field (really good number in this day and age of turbo 4-bangers bringing in 240+). This engine is rock solid, and still used in EVERY FCA.Stellantis product (excluding a few dumb outliers)

Cons:
the 'Internet' and 'car people' hate it, and it has a bad reputation for being old and uninspired. It's an 14 year old exterior style, and a 11 year old interior style.
the 'internet' and 'car people'  (rightfully) hate it because it is the only car still sold NEW with a 4sp auto trans (only on the 4cyl model).
Electrical gremlins are annoying, but are usually solved by changing the battery.

Cons that are also Pros:
'Internet and car people' think it drives like a minivan. - that's the point- it's smooth, it wallows, it cruises on the highway amazing, seats 7, gets goodish fuel economy. Not everyone wants a 'tiny' import crossover that drives like a Subaru BRZ lifted.... some people want the solf wallowy minivan drive where you can comfortably cruise at 85mph with only minor corrections on the tiller to keep in the lane. Body-roll? That's part of the experience.

This is one of the reasons my wife's Journey replacement was a Buick, because Buick seems to have the closest to a relaxed, quiet ride, not-a-sportscar feel that makes the journey a comfy car to drive. { jeep? too bouncy. Hyundai? too cheap+tiny. Toyota? too stiff and tight. ]
 

Well here she is. I was pleasantly surprised by how quiet it rides. The stock radio could sound better but it's not terrible. Definitely lighter on it's feet than the old Buick. Overall I'm impressed.