bfurth

Word of advice before paying any dealership for any part - price match the part elsewhere, ESPECIALLY if it's something you can live without for a few days.  A Bluetooth antenna on its own is dirt cheap (you can get a USB PC adapter for under $20).  An automotive specialty part should not cost anywhere near $750.
 
As for the Keyless Enter-N-Go - that's not exactly how that works.  The key fob has to be within 5 feet of the door you are attempting to open.  Go ahead - have someone try to open the passenger front door while you stand near the driver front door - it won't (shouldn't) work.  There is a delay from the time I grab the door handle on mine to when it actually unlocks (less than one second).  That's plenty of time for the door handle to sense an unlock request (the act of touching it creates that request), then transmit a local signal to detect the key fob, receive a return signal from the fob that it is in range and it is the correct key, and return an unlock command to the door(s) in question.  Even mediocre programming wouldn't have it constantly searching for the key fob.

I've got a 2010 Town and Country with a 62TE transmission and 140,000+ miles.  I've had the fluid and filter changed twice (once at 60k, again at 120k, per the manufacturer recommended cycle under severe duty, since it was a rental fleet vehicle before I purchased it).  It had developed a leak at the output shaft seal somewhere around 50k miles, and it was fixed under the powertrain warranty with no issues since.  For every person blasting the component on the internet, there are a few hundred happily chugging along.
 
Things break.  Thing which move break faster.  Things which move and pull several thousand pounds of metal and people break faster still.  A vehicle is not an investment - it is a capital expense.  Never forget that.

20 Ft-Lbs - that's all you need to install the drain plug.  Stop letting people use an impact wrench on it!

This may be a bit late to the party, but for future reference:
 
The 2.4L calls for:
 
NGK ZFR5F11 (copper) plugs with a .043" (1.1mm) gap, torqued to 20 ft. lbs. (27 N*m), changed every 30,000 miles (age is irrelevant).
 
Those numbers appear to apply to all 2.4L North America builds of the Dodge Journey (numbers are accurate and unchanged from 2009 through 2014, no reason to assume they changed for 2015 and later since it's still the same engine).

http://www.obdii.com/articles/Diagnosing_Misfires.html
 
Compression/leak down test should have been done before you started changing computers.  How about checking for the condition of the spark plug in cylinder 1?  Changing it without knowing why it is misfiring does you no good.  Was it worn with typical wear characteristics, or did it have other failure signs?  Did it appear similar to the other 3 plugs?  How about oil mixing with coolant or vice versa?
 
Changing the coils shouldn't be a troubleshooting step on this engine unless you have moved them to another cylinder first.  The beauty of how these are designed is such that you can swap the coil packs from one cylinder to another and see if you can trace the problem.  Given that it's not an interference engine (the valves do not take up space where the pistons will soon be) and you're not having a timing issue, moving this around to isolate the problem won't likely cause any additional substantial problems.  Just don't drive across town with it like that.
 
Did anyone bother to check the electrical continuity of the wiring harness for your #1 cylinder?  If it's a bad cable, none of what you have done will matter.  If the coil pack fails on cylinder 1, but works on cylinder 2, and cylinder 2 coil pack works on 2, but fails on 1, then it's most likely a wiring problem.
 
Hopefully you followed the proper re-learn procedure for the PCM.  This basically means have a mechanic perform the task - I doubt you have access to the correct tools yourself.

I know that there is a computer initiated bleed procedure for a newly installed ABS module.  The correct procedure is 4 wheel bleed, ABS automated bleed, 4 wheel bleed again.  If you don't have a scan tool capable of initiating that bleed, take it to a shop.

I know that there is a computer initiated bleed procedure for a newly installed ABS module.  The correct procedure is 4 wheel bleed, ABS automated bleed, 4 wheel bleed again.  If you don't have a scan tool capable of initiating that bleed, take it to a shop.

I've got a 2010 Town and Country with a 62TE transmission and 140,000+ miles.  I've had the fluid and filter changed twice (once at 60k, again at 120k, per the manufacturer recommended cycle under severe duty, since it was a rental fleet vehicle before I purchased it).  It had developed a leak at the output shaft seal somewhere around 50k miles, and it was fixed under the powertrain warranty with no issues since.  For every person blasting the component on the internet, there are a few hundred happily chugging along.
 
Things break.  Thing which move break faster.  Things which move and pull several thousand pounds of metal and people break faster still.  A vehicle is not an investment - it is a capital expense.  Never forget that.

I know that there is a computer initiated bleed procedure for a newly installed ABS module.  The correct procedure is 4 wheel bleed, ABS automated bleed, 4 wheel bleed again.  If you don't have a scan tool capable of initiating that bleed, take it to a shop.

2100. The keyboard must have shifted on you.

At the very least, learn to do brakes yourself.  There's no reason to touch the calipers unless they're leaking or fully seized.  A 4 corner pad and rotor replacement can be done for $200 USD on the 2011, I don't think it's much more for later versions with the bigger brakes, plus the cost of obtaining appropriate tools if you don't already have them (socket set, jack, stands, wheel chocks, torque wrench, caliper wind back set - combined, you're looking at anywhere from $100 plus renting/borrowing what you need just for that job, $250 if you buy everything, and as much as you want if you buy it from a truck).  Throw in an extra $10 for some sand paper (clean up the surface of the wheel hubs when you change rotors), anti-seize (makes removing the rotor the next time MUCH easier), and some brake grease (lubricate the slide pins - I've had friends with brake problems that were entirely due to the fact that the slide pins were bone dry), you could do the whole thing yourself in an afternoon for under $500 USD.  The next time you'd have to do it, it's only $200, and under $100 if you catch the pads before they wear out.  The way the older models (pre-2012) chew though brakes (single piston front caliper is the tell for the smaller brakes), you should learn to do it yourself.  There are plenty of threads on this topic on this board (and I think one or two where I've posted the torque specs for the associated bolts).

I've got a 2010 Town and Country with a 62TE transmission and 140,000+ miles.  I've had the fluid and filter changed twice (once at 60k, again at 120k, per the manufacturer recommended cycle under severe duty, since it was a rental fleet vehicle before I purchased it).  It had developed a leak at the output shaft seal somewhere around 50k miles, and it was fixed under the powertrain warranty with no issues since.  For every person blasting the component on the internet, there are a few hundred happily chugging along.
 
Things break.  Thing which move break faster.  Things which move and pull several thousand pounds of metal and people break faster still.  A vehicle is not an investment - it is a capital expense.  Never forget that.

I've got a 2010 Town and Country with a 62TE transmission and 140,000+ miles.  I've had the fluid and filter changed twice (once at 60k, again at 120k, per the manufacturer recommended cycle under severe duty, since it was a rental fleet vehicle before I purchased it).  It had developed a leak at the output shaft seal somewhere around 50k miles, and it was fixed under the powertrain warranty with no issues since.  For every person blasting the component on the internet, there are a few hundred happily chugging along.
 
Things break.  Thing which move break faster.  Things which move and pull several thousand pounds of metal and people break faster still.  A vehicle is not an investment - it is a capital expense.  Never forget that.

Word of advice before paying any dealership for any part - price match the part elsewhere, ESPECIALLY if it's something you can live without for a few days.  A Bluetooth antenna on its own is dirt cheap (you can get a USB PC adapter for under $20).  An automotive specialty part should not cost anywhere near $750.
 
As for the Keyless Enter-N-Go - that's not exactly how that works.  The key fob has to be within 5 feet of the door you are attempting to open.  Go ahead - have someone try to open the passenger front door while you stand near the driver front door - it won't (shouldn't) work.  There is a delay from the time I grab the door handle on mine to when it actually unlocks (less than one second).  That's plenty of time for the door handle to sense an unlock request (the act of touching it creates that request), then transmit a local signal to detect the key fob, receive a return signal from the fob that it is in range and it is the correct key, and return an unlock command to the door(s) in question.  Even mediocre programming wouldn't have it constantly searching for the key fob.

At the very least, learn to do brakes yourself.  There's no reason to touch the calipers unless they're leaking or fully seized.  A 4 corner pad and rotor replacement can be done for $200 USD on the 2011, I don't think it's much more for later versions with the bigger brakes, plus the cost of obtaining appropriate tools if you don't already have them (socket set, jack, stands, wheel chocks, torque wrench, caliper wind back set - combined, you're looking at anywhere from $100 plus renting/borrowing what you need just for that job, $250 if you buy everything, and as much as you want if you buy it from a truck).  Throw in an extra $10 for some sand paper (clean up the surface of the wheel hubs when you change rotors), anti-seize (makes removing the rotor the next time MUCH easier), and some brake grease (lubricate the slide pins - I've had friends with brake problems that were entirely due to the fact that the slide pins were bone dry), you could do the whole thing yourself in an afternoon for under $500 USD.  The next time you'd have to do it, it's only $200, and under $100 if you catch the pads before they wear out.  The way the older models (pre-2012) chew though brakes (single piston front caliper is the tell for the smaller brakes), you should learn to do it yourself.  There are plenty of threads on this topic on this board (and I think one or two where I've posted the torque specs for the associated bolts).

At the very least, learn to do brakes yourself.  There's no reason to touch the calipers unless they're leaking or fully seized.  A 4 corner pad and rotor replacement can be done for $200 USD on the 2011, I don't think it's much more for later versions with the bigger brakes, plus the cost of obtaining appropriate tools if you don't already have them (socket set, jack, stands, wheel chocks, torque wrench, caliper wind back set - combined, you're looking at anywhere from $100 plus renting/borrowing what you need just for that job, $250 if you buy everything, and as much as you want if you buy it from a truck).  Throw in an extra $10 for some sand paper (clean up the surface of the wheel hubs when you change rotors), anti-seize (makes removing the rotor the next time MUCH easier), and some brake grease (lubricate the slide pins - I've had friends with brake problems that were entirely due to the fact that the slide pins were bone dry), you could do the whole thing yourself in an afternoon for under $500 USD.  The next time you'd have to do it, it's only $200, and under $100 if you catch the pads before they wear out.  The way the older models (pre-2012) chew though brakes (single piston front caliper is the tell for the smaller brakes), you should learn to do it yourself.  There are plenty of threads on this topic on this board (and I think one or two where I've posted the torque specs for the associated bolts).

Have you consulted your owner's manual?  That will tell you everything you need to know about the maintenance schedule and what items are required based on intervals.
 
https://carmanuals2.com/dodge/journey-2011-owner-s-manual-31045
 
As for the alignment check - did they actually put it on an alignment rack and give you a readout of the current measurements?  If not, how could they possibly know it's out of alignment (unless it's horrifically out of alignment)?

OMG   My car is running perfectly by there is a recall and I don’t have my letter yet!  Class action lemon law suit, who’s in??? 

My 2010 T&C threw a P0562 a few years ago.  It was due to a failed battery.  No other issues ever presented (other than those associated with a dead battery that won't charge anymore).
 
The code specifically means "low battery voltage."  It could be due to other issues, but if you've got an older battery and that code, it's past time to replace it.

Which is utterly stupid, considering we have a computer display right in front of us.
 
I second the "go to any auto DIY shop, or buy a code reader on Amazon" sentiment.

Don't use universal coolant for one.  Mixing coolant types will cause blockages in the radiator or engine at best, heavy corrosion at worst.  Get the coolant flushed correctly as soon as possible.
 
Check the consistency of the engine oil.  Yellowish to black is fine, chocolate milk like is a failed head gasket.  You also want to check hoses, especially any that are above hot components (like the exhaust manifold). If it's leaking from there, it will drip onto the heat shield and evaporate before you can see the leak.
 
One last place to check off hand would be the coolant overflow bottle - make sure it isn't cracked.

It should be immediately in front of the brake booster.
 
Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the air cleaner housing (you'll need the space).
 
There are 4 fuel hoses that need to be removed (label everything, take photos, do whatever you have to do to put them back the exact same way).
 
Remove the retaining screw, remove the filter.
 
Installation is reverse of removal. No torque values for the screw are listed, so good-and-tight is good enough.
 
I don't have any good information on the depressurization of the fuel system, and the manual I'm reading from doesn't list any specific warnings while changing the diesel 2.0L fuel filter.  I'm not familiar at all with diesel engines and latent pressure in fuel lines (gasoline engine fuel lines will remain pressurized even when the vehicle is off, but that's a function of electrical ignition of fuel versus diesel's compression ignition).  It may be that shutting off a diesel vehicle shuts off the pump and the engine will continue to burn fuel until there isn't any left - I don't know, I'm not an engineer.  If you have any further questions along that line, talk to a mechanic or your local dealership.

Given that it happened when changing gears, I'd say it's probably the transmission. If the fluid that is leaking is pink/red, that's more proof.  You should still be covered under the powertrain warranty - have it towed to a dealer (which may even be covered under that warranty - but don't quote me on that) and let them fix it.  Don't try to drive it until it's fixed (sometimes, you just have to state the obvious).

Given that it happened when changing gears, I'd say it's probably the transmission. If the fluid that is leaking is pink/red, that's more proof.  You should still be covered under the powertrain warranty - have it towed to a dealer (which may even be covered under that warranty - but don't quote me on that) and let them fix it.  Don't try to drive it until it's fixed (sometimes, you just have to state the obvious).

It could also be a leak in the rear AC evaporator coil (just above the right wheel well), or it could be rear shocks.  Between the components jkeaton mentioned and these, there really aren't any other fluids back there.