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Showing most liked content on 04/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Our first dead battery was a 6 year old original. Replaced. 2nd was a dead cell that showed up after about six weeks. Replaced. Third kept dying for no apparent reason. Replaced. Had a parasitic draw test done. Turned out to be the HFM (hands free module - bluetooth). Mechanic pulled the fuse which was number 131 under the passenger side dash. No more problems. I am now an expert battery replacer for the Journey. I am waiting for my certificate in the mail. All sorts of weird electrical shit was happening during low voltage including limp mode. It is a relief to have it fixed. mechanical-idiot
  2. 3 points
    Charge the battery. Disconnect the battery. Leave it for a few minutes and connect it again. Should start. Had the same problem. Our Journey would not start after a 2 day drain. No lights or anything after a battery charge. Had to disconnect it via the negative post before it reset everything and would start. Weird. No logical explanation. Hope it works for you. You obviously have something draining it. You will get a ton of weird codes when your battery is low. Our code list was a mile long when our battery was giving us problems from low voltage. All sorts of electrical shit happens during low voltage setting off the codes. Start with finding the parasitic draw first. That will solve a lot of your code problems. mechanical-idiot
  3. 3 points
    2late4u

    High idle + misfire + random codes

    hey full coverage and a dark road and a match
  4. 2 points
    Here is a photo of the beast. We love it, but we have had to put some money into it in the past 16 months. Oh well, every vehicle has it's problems. mechanical-idiot
  5. 2 points
    ^^This I had a 2 year old battery fail with a dead cell. It would charge but would be dead the next day. It was under warranty so the dealer diagnosed it but the dash threw all kinds of warnings and lights. Have the battery and the alternator load checked. Check all of the wiring from the battery out. There have been some who had trouble with a sensor embedded in the negative terminal post clamp at the battery. I don't know anything about that one but something to look for. These vehicles are very subsectable to low or inconsistent voltage.
  6. 2 points
    Got it back today. Working like new. No more warning lights on dash. Didn't need a flash as it was a sensor, not a module. Plug and play part. Hope our bad luck changes. mechanical-idiot
  7. 1 point
    2late4u

    High idle + misfire + random codes

    well guess you are entitled to your own opinion,,,, i have had 2 journeys a 2011 and a 2014 loved them both ,of course i bought new and didnt buy an 10 yr old journey that has a lot of problems, guess you get what you pay for.....sometime you win and sometimes you dont......
  8. 1 point
    2late4u, Can you please post the address of that dark road that you previously referred to. I want to program it into our GPS. I will probably need it the next time we have a f'n 800 dollar problem with this beast. I am now in a love hate relationship with our 2012 RT AWD Journey. It could turn to a hate relationship at any given time. This old girl is dragging me down. A word of advise to everyone in the real world - Don't buy an AWD Journey unless you have an extended warranty. I think that should be a Chinese proverb. Ahhhhh, who am I fooling. I do love the damn thing. I just hate my bad luck. mechanical-idiot
  9. 1 point
    For the second time in six months, my bluetoth phone lost connection with uConnect. I've seen lots of people stating the same problem, and how they were charged serious money to have it "fixed". Although there are many reasons for this problem, this is what I found worked for me. 1 - Locate the fuse block under the glove box on the right side kick panel. If you can't access it, you may need to hire a left handed, double jointed gymnast . 2 - You need to locate Fuse 131 which is listed in the Manual as the Hands Free Module. Since they are not marked and there is no picture in the manual, I've attached one I found on someone's site. Its a red 10A fuse in the third column from the right, and the second fuse from the top. 3 - Using long needle-nosed pliers, carefully pull it straight out. 4 - Wait a minute or two, then reinsert it. Not easy, just awkward. Make sure it's properly seated 5 - Now, press the Start button to ACC and with your phone handy, they should connect.
  10. 1 point
    Bdberry

    LED headlights

    I have not put mine in yet, they will be in this weekend, but I have done countless led/hid installs. Always get a canbus for your led just to be safe, better to have it and not need it, then to need it and not have it. Just get the right size, and when you put the led bulb in, make sure the chips are facing left and right , not up and down. They are very bright and might need adjusting. If you want a fool proof alternative, HID bulbs are great, but require you to have some what electrical knowledge to put them in if you are newer to cars because of the relay harness/ballists etc. Either one will greatly enhance the light output, just dont always go to cheap, you get what you pay for! I went with Hikari brand led bulb because they use the Philips chips. mine, with canbus, were just over $100 I also bought led fog light bulbs, but went with an ebay bulb to test out ordered led license plate lights and reverse lights, have a light bar coming in this week. Hoping to install it all this weekend. Will post pics to give a better idea when they are in!
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