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You can get a used PCM on Ebay and reprogrammed to your VIN, that way you eliminate your doubt about the PCM.

from reading your post, it sounds like your at the end of the road with your current mechanics. you probably don't want to hear this BUT sounds like its time to take it your local dodge dealership and show and tell them everything you have done and let them check it out, YES there will be a diagnostic fee but that does go toward the repair, and the repair WILL be higher than a local mechanic but they have more experience with your engine and vehicle...good luck and take care

Winner winner, chicken dinner! 😃 313K is the highest I've seen on here yet!

I'm in that same boat.... My wife says i have to sell the Buick and the '14 BEFORE I can buy a minivan or Pacifica, which would be more beneficial to my uses. BUT I don't dare think of selling off HER '13RT! and son is very happy with the '11.

Well I am still confused and concerned at the same time as we have taken the top part of this motor apart for the sixth time and even took apart the cam phasers and they are fine we have driven this vehicle again with the $6,000 snap-on giant tablet scanner that my mechanic has that shows you all of the graphs of the sensors, temperatures, and voltages in the wiring harness everything is within specs everything is working as should everything is putting out the signals that they are supposed to be putting out and in real time us driving it and watching these graphs still the code is only thrown when the motor reaches 205 degrees or above which is it's running temperature and when the code is thrown there is no change in any of these graphs that indicate the issue that is causing the code to be thrown it's as if it's got to be a program issue with the PCM that does not seem to be another explanation so I'm wondering if there are updates from the dealership that I might be able to get to fix my PCM problem if that's in case the problem because everything else is checking out perfectly fine, we just can't wrap our heads around what the issue might be.

Don't think my wife will let me buy 2 more and modify them. As it is I'm not allowed to buy any more cars. 😆 🤣 😂 4 is my current limit

Y'all talk of being happy with your singular ownership of your Journey......Proof of liking is having 3 at the same time and all road ready! ROFL

My 2013 is still under 90k miles. Since 2020 working from home I rarely drive it. Plus it's a toy now, not really practical for anything other then cruising now. Never thought I'd say that about my journey 😆 🤣 😂

https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-drip-channel-68019472aa?c=bT0xJmw9MyZuPVJlY29tbWVuZGVkIFByb2R1Y3RzJms9MQ%3D%https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-drip-channel-68019472aa?c=bT0xJmw9MyZuPVJlY29tbWVuZGVkIFByb2R1Y3RzJms9MQ%3D%3D 0ED150FA-4766-4D15-8EC7-228BBEBCDB2F.webp

I recently picked up low-mileage (28K) 2018 and discovered that the front windshield washer was not doing much but dribbling out when activated. I opened the hood to check connections and all are good. While I had the hood open I also cleaned out the emitter orifices with a needle. I left the hood propped open, got back in the vehicle and ran the washer and it sprayed like a champ. Closed the hood and tried again and back to just a dribble. To clarify, with the hood closed the emitter on the driver's side 'dribbles', the passenger side emits nothing. The lines appear to be running along their proper route, so don't think anything is getting kinked when I close the hood. Any suggestions?

Ebay

he never posted back,so we assume that replacing the harness fixed his problem,it would have been nice of people to report back on the their fixes to their problems on here

Hello brother, I got the same problem with the same model here. Any update on your vehicle?

I pretty much love everything about the interior. I especially like the way they gave the driver more space by taking a notch from passenger seat! My 2014 leather is still nice.

I am looking for fascia parts to do a chrome delete. Anyone know of a good place to find things easily?

Man I feel old, I miss my crackberry

Check ebay. Or the dealer. Or a junk yard.

So today {Tuesday} I ordered the 4 Kumho Crugen tires with ship to home for a grand total of $460.04 from Walmart. They are supposed to arrive Friday, and when in hand my friend will mount and balance them for me. I'm hoping he will also put them on the car, as I really don't care for the thought of bringing the wheels "loose" to him. He has gotten very busy this last month, I guess some folks are getting tax refunds and getting cars back in shape for the upcoming summer!

Hey all, My Journey does not have a shifter blind and I can't find one to purchase online. Help, please!! It's the black plastic under the shifter knob that covers the shift gate. TIA!

Update: I was able to figure out that this is the drain channel, I need to order a new one. But I found a more bigger problem that is causing a slight leak. My sunroof appears to no longer be calibrated and refuses to open. It opens in Vent mode no issue, and closes no issue. But trying to open, only the passenger side corner drops, I'll hear a quick series of taps that mimic a machine gun sound, then the sunroof stops and waits for you to close it. I can tell the driver side rear corner does not drop like the passenger side does and I believe it has something to do with the black clips that run along the guide. I am posting two photos of the sunroof in Vent mode. You will notice the clip on the driver side is all the way to the front of the guide where it looks like it shouldn't be as it pulled the sunroof a bit forward on the driver side, (little plastic circle) where as the one on the passenger side is not all the way at the front (in the proper position). What would be my best way to correct this issue?

Just wondering how has your seats held up? I have the leather /fabric inserts in my 2014 crossroad and my 2011 had the all fabric seat material which still looked great when I traded it in on my 2014 and I remember a lot of post worried about the creases and wrinkles in some of the seats, actually I like the look of the ones in my journey and had noticed real leather looked like that as well.mine has held up real good no rips or real foam breaking down in the seats and since I am close to 250-300 over the years I think has done ,of course I have taken good care with leather/protectant on them over the yrs, In my opium dodge used a good quality seat material in our seats,,,,my grandson has a 2018 altima and his has the beige vinyl / leather seats and they look terrible and the fabric has broken and ripped on the edges, I was looking for replacements seats at the local scrap/ junkyards and all the beige ones were the same just junk now the same year altima with black seats were in a lot better shape not sure if it was a different material or if it was real leather.......

Mine is a 2010 and it has 241, 000 miles on it and the only thing I’ve had to fix is my brakes once (all 4 wheels), the tires once (obviously) lol and the motor for my drivers side electric window.

I hate random parts throwing but… cps sensor is critical, not hard to change or expensive. Non oem on occasion can create a lot of weird stuff. As already mentioned. Sensor Reluctor wheel damage or misalignment for cam or CPS sensors comes up on engine sites. VVT sensors run on oil pressure, heat can change viscosity and pressure. How is oil pressure.?

Welcome!

Replacing radiator support/core support and I got almost everything together but I can't for the life of me remember where this bolt goes. Any help would be appreciated.