My 2015 only has 4600 miles on it, (7 months old).Went to start it after 2 days sitting in my driveway and it would not start. Called Roadside Assist, had it jump started and off to the dealership. They charged the battery for 1 hour as per their protocol and it passed. They advised they checked the anti run-down and it was also working. I brought it home turned it off and even left the rear hatch unlocked and only closed it (not completely locking it) All the interior lights turned off including the large one in the rear tailgate after a couple of min's. Its the Limited model and the headlights are set for Auto and the Key fob was not left in the vehicle either which I understand might cause the computer to think I am still in the vehicle and ready to start it again which might cause a battery drain. ????

My Dodge journey 2012 2.4L is starting wipers, dashboard lights are flashing, chime starting to "ping" non stop, all this while driving.

Vehicule doesn't turn or shut OFF by itself while doing this problem BUT if I shut it OFF, impossible to restart it before few hours... If I try to restart it, it starts all accessories at same time without starting... Impossible tu turn OFF any accessories involved...

It looks like after 12 hours it "reset" a module than is ok to restart but "check engine" light turns ON for few days then dissapear until next episode of problem...

My garage is thinking about part #68164872AC.

Can you please let me know if I'm the only one having this problem or it is common?

Thanks,

Straight up folks here is the deal.

The Journey has a weak electrical system. Dodge made it that way.

Most Dodge dealerships don't know what to do with it either.

I have identified a weak point, that can be corrected very easily.

Drum roll please..........

Upgrade your electrical ground system.

Yes, that simple.

Read to the end.

A 12-volt automotive circuit consists of a power wire to the load (lights, motor etc.), and the ground wire. The ground wire is a return path to the negative battery terminal.

The negative battery cable connects to the ground stud located on the drivers strut tower. From the ground stud, a cable connects to the engine block.

From the engine block, wires, straps or cables ground to the chassis.

Inside the vehicle all electrical circuits are connected and grounded to the vehicle chassis. The metal chassis is the ground return path to the negative battery terminal.

Weak grounds that are corroded or loose. Will cause all kinds of strange electrical problems.

Cleaning all grounds first is important. To prevent misdiagnosing and replacing parts that are good.

This is why, we keep telling people check and clean your connections and grounds.

On the Journey the ground system needs a few upgrades to be considered reliable. Dodge cut costs on the electrical system battery cables. They used 4-gauge (AWG). Should have been 2-gauge (AWG). Better engine block to chassis grounds is needed.

So, my plan is to connect as many grounds as possible by cable to the negative battery terminal.

1) Battery ground stud to engine block ground stud. Adkd a 2 gauge Cable. Leave the stock ground cable alone.

2) Passenger engine mount. 4-gauge cable to passenger strut tower ground stud.

3) Passenger strut tower ground studs. Connect them together with wire or use a 2 " mending plate modified to fit.

4) Drivers strut tower. Connect the 2 smaller ground studs together. Then connect them to the large battery ground stud. Use wire or 2" mending plate modified to fit. 

The 2-gauge cable from the battery ground stud to the engine block stud. The starter and alternator ground through the engine block. 

This upgrade is very important to starting and charging of the vehicle. The engine block is an important part of the ground system.

Parts needed -2 gauge (AWG) cable black, 10 ft long with 3 /8" hole lug ends.

The 4-gauge cable ground from the passenger engine mount to the strut tower ground. Ties that side of the vehicle in to the ground system.

Parts needed -4 gauge (AWG) black, 3 ft long with 5 /16" lug ends.

Connecting the strut tower grounds together completes the direct connection to the battery negative terminal.

Parts needed- Wire or 2" mending plates. Drill out the holes until it fits.

An additional ground that takes some work,is to run a 4-gauge cable from the engine block stud into the interior.

Connecting to the bare metal of the Instrument panel frame.

I ran this ground cable right along with the transmission shifter cable into the vehicle.

The instrument panel frame has the grounds for 90% of the electronic modules on the Journey directly connected to it. These modules need the best direct ground possible. 

The HVAC module is one of them. This one needs the best ground possible.

Get these upgrades done first. Then see what is happening and proceed on to troubleshooting and testing components.

I have been running this basic ground upgrade for a year now.

When, I installed the ground to the instrument panel frame by the cabin air filter. My HVAC switched between defrost and floor outlets immediately. 

Studying the improvement of the HVAC turning on by itself. 

Photos are in the next post. 

Where to buy parts in another post.

Dean

My Journey 2011 has a hiccup. I hear a noise, like tack tack tack (~10 tacks) ... apparently from under the dash on the passenger side. I hear it clearly when I am inside the car (while starting or stopping the engine), but I also hear it randomly outside the vehicle when the car is simply parked. It has been so for a few months.

It slowly drains the battery. Outside temperature now is below the freezing point and a fully charged battery is needed. Rear AC is disabled on the front screen. 

Is this a common problem?

Should I "show" a recording? Is it possible?

my fear is that its going to kill this new battery!

What is going on ??

I called the dealership and they said fuse number 37 to check to see if my cruise control work. It’s at 10 AM fuse I checked all the 10 AM fuses and the fuse box and they’re all good. 
 

I bought a new cruise control arm. Is there any directions on how to remove that? Do I need to disconnect the battery being it there on the steering wheel with the airbag any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

IMG_3506.mov

I have a 2009 2.4L (4 cylinder) Dodge Journey. It is not a bad car, when it works.

The problem:

I was having a problem for about 2 years, where all the gears on the dashboard were selected/lit and the car would not start (no crank, no click, car had full power everywhere). It was an intermittent problem and would happen about every two months. If the car sat for a few days, out of the blue, it would work/start again.

The solution:

Short answer: I had a broken ground on the passenger side of the car I had to repair. After that, the car started right up!  (All the pictures are below)

Long answer/story: Trying to fix this problem, I had...

-The battery replaced

-Replaced the starter

-I re-grounded the driver's side of the car

-had the ignition module/switch replaced

-I took the TIPM completely apart (no issues there)

-had the dealer look at it (could not fix it)

-had error codes pulled (Nothing pointing/leading to the real problem) 

I started looking around the engine and noticed a broken cable on the passenger side. It was corroded badly already (which would explain why the car would work on and off). Once I replaced it, I unhooked the red power cable to the TIPM to reset it (for about 10 seconds), and the car started up with no issues! 

I am posting this because there was NO solution on the internet about this! People were starting to think it was the range selector, but that did not explain the car working on and off (it drove fine, when it worked). I re-grounded the car (the driver side) like some people have said, but that was not enough. Look around for broken/corroded wires and re-ground the passenger side too. (Running a ground from the driver's side to the passenger side did NOT work for me!)

Also, I noticed that some of my anti-freeze was overflowing out of the reservoir and leaking onto a wire harness. Look out for that too. That was not my problem, but that can cause a problem in the long run.

My 2009 Journey is 16 years old. The only major thing I had replaced was the brake calipers all around. The electrical system is trash, but it is a good car, when it works

Thanks

My 2013 Journey had issues in May including not starting without a booster, speedometer needle dropping (no loss of acceleration), flickering interior and exterior lights and the ABS, parking brake and traction control lights would intermittently flash and beep while driving. Apparently the mechanic replaced the battery cables but for the past 2 weeks I have been in the same situation. 
 

When I am driving everything is fine until I hear the glove box light turning on and off. Then all the other symptoms begin. I was told by the same mechanic it is either a faulty wire or cluster gauge. I am hoping for a less expensive fix. 
 

If anyone has had a similar issue please let me know what worked for you! The glow of the light in the glove box after the car had been turned off and door was opened and shut again. 

Cheryl

2. None of the buttons work (except the hazard lights)

3. I can hear faint music

4. Engine light will intermittently turn on and turn off after a while

5. Fan will intermittently turn on

6. I've tested the fuses in the engine bay AND under the dash.

7. Tyre Pressure System service message comes on when I start the car and the orange tyre light stays on. I'll get to that with the next service.

8. Battery was replaced 6 months ago.

9. Alternator was replaced about a year ago.

10. Screen changed to miles and suddenly, 2 weeks ago reverted back to kilometres.

Please feel free to ask for further information.

Thanks muchly 😁

Thanks in advance.

I don't know if this is related but a small auto shop installed a hitch for me and crushed a wire harness. That didn't cause an issue until someone rear ended my car and the hitch had to be removed the body shop informed me of the crushed harness only after I complained my backup chime and camera wasnt working any longer. I am getting that wire harness replaced next week. 

I should note that when the Tire Pressure Light comes on the screen shows lines where the tire pressures usually display. When the light goes out it is back to normal.

Thank you in advance

2016 Journey Crossroads

I'm hoping this is a known issue although searching didn't reveal anything definitive.

Noticed today when I step on the brake pedal, the interior lights come on dimly while the pedal is depressed then go off when released.  Turn headlight switch to the parking lights position and the interior lights come on full.

Has anyone seen this issue and found a resolution?

I appreciate any input.

Thank you!

Works:  

Rear windows up and down.

Does not work:

Front windows up or down

Lock or Unlock

Power Mirror Controls (blows breaker when I try to use them)

Additionally the passenger side door controller will unlock but will not lock.  The passenger side door controller does operate the passenger side window.

I've tried replacing the drivers door controller but I get the same result.  

Does anyone have a wiring diagram of what color wire is supposed to go to what on the door controller harness?  Using a multimeter I found 2 of the 8 wires (it seems like there should be more than 8 wires) are always hot.  2 of them are ground wires.  The other four wires (which I think would be front windows up and down) never get power when using the door controller.

Finally, there is a slow battery drain going on somehow.  If the car sits for about 3 days after driving the battery will go dead.  Alternator charges the battery back up when driving.