Miggy17

2011 Dodge Journey Battery Issue

15 posts in this topic

Ok so after bringing my JC to the dealer who wanted a lot of money I decoded to bring it to a local Mecanic very well known. He checked it out and said the new battery wasn't connected right. A day later my JC was dead again in the morning after jumping it it was stuck in limp mode traction control light was on wipers were moving. I then shut the car off restarted it now no more limp mode no traction control light and wipers stopped. I really give up at this point. Any one have same issues ?

dhh3 and Cluless like this

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nope, so how was the new battery installed wrong?and who installed it?what was the problems or codes before the new battery was changed? not enough info?

Edited by 2late4u
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How can a battery be installed wrong?? Id look for a better answer than that! Batteries that are installed wrong tend to blow up......

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nope, so how was the new battery installed wrong?and who installed it?what was the problems or codes before the new battery was changed? not enough info?

Not sure why this is a new thread, There is a fairly complete thread on the OP's problem here:

http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/8296-battery-drain/

Well, let's start again by listing the obvious possible causes:

If the battery can start the car one day and not the next then either;

1. the battery is being drained when the vehicle is idle (as in switched off and the doors all closed and lights switched off)

2. the battery isn't being charged properly (as in 14.2 or so volts across the battery terminals when the vehicle is running) and is slowly draining

3. the battery has a wonky cell

4. Connections somewhere in the vehicle (perhaps a relay contact, ground point, connector pin) are defective/corroded.

4a. Perhaps the park/neutral switch isn't working reliably

Now, usually the alternator is wired directly across the battery and there is usually a fusible link to the battery . . . . from there it goes to various keep-alive circuits (like the ECU, Radio and such) via the fuse block and there are switches (like the brake light switch, door lock switches, the switch on the dash dimmer control, the map lights, the various door switches and does the glove box have a switch?), power seat switch that can cause power to be drawn while the vehicle is idle.

The issue is one of the 4 above.

Bad connections - grounds in particular can cause all sorts of very weird problems, but I've seen glove box light switches and brake light switches also do bad things.

Current leaks - the regulator stack in the alternator can be a discharge path as can salt-corroded connections. If there are any added accessories - something drawing significant power plugged into one of the unswitched power outlets this can be a problem - a bad relay may not be opening or a wonky control module might not be going to sleep.

Sneak currents are a real pain to find, but it shouldn't be hard to eliminate the alternator as the source of the trouble . . . . connect a voltmeter across the battery and start the car and measure the voltage - it should read 14.2 or thereabout . . . . . Next, with the car OFF, put an ampmeter in series with the battery and see what's being drawn - it shouldn't me much - the battery is likely capable of 60-100 amp-hours (I'd have to look up the battery specs) an assuming the lower limit, that the battery starts out charges and that the vehicle goes dead after 12 hours, you ought to be able to tolerate a draw of at least an amp and a half and still have more than 50% of the battery's capacity for starting. If you see considerable drain start by disconnecting the alternator to see if that changes things. If it does, get a new alternator.

If battery draw is less than one and a half amps and the vehicle still can't be started after 12 idle hours then it isn't likely to be the battery, unless the battery is wonky - to figure out whether it is a bad bond in the battery or not put your voltmeter across the battery terminals and try to start the vehicle . . . if the voltage doesn't drop during the start attempt and just sits at above 12.4 or so volts then the car isn't even trying to start, so look elsewhere.

Such fun.

If this was my vehicle. . . . . and I'm not a mechanic - I'd do the basic testing and then relegate the repair to the dealer . . . . your dealer is probably (hopefully) better at this than I am. But make sure he knows what's been done and that while you appreciate that diagnostics take time, you are not agreeing to pay to replace parts that aren't actually defective.

I'm certain that others will chime in with their suggestions to add or to critique my comments.

Edited by bramfrank
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Sorry for posting a new thread new at this. Just looking for input on my issues. Thx to all.

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I am currently having this issue. While driving, the battery indication comes on. After a short period of time, I will get the ABS and traction control lights along with the airbag light. Occasionally the car will downshift itself and not want to shift at all, then everything will just start working again. The wipers started on their own. Finally the car died from what appeared to be a drained battery. I jumped the battery, which I just replaced a few days ago, and it started right back up.

I am thinking that it could be an issue with my alternator, but when I got the new battery, they say they tested the alternator and that it was good.

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I am currently having this issue. While driving, the battery indication comes on. After a short period of time, I will get the ABS and traction control lights along with the airbag light. Occasionally the car will downshift itself and not want to shift at all, then everything will just start working again. The wipers started on their own. Finally the car died from what appeared to be a drained battery. I jumped the battery, which I just replaced a few days ago, and it started right back up.

I am thinking that it could be an issue with my alternator, but when I got the new battery, they say they tested the alternator and that it was good.

Bad connection somewhere.

dhh3 and 2late4u like this

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On ‎2016‎-‎04‎-‎27 at 4:53 PM, Jason7380 said:

I am currently having this issue. While driving, the battery indication comes on. After a short period of time, I will get the ABS and traction control lights along with the airbag light. Occasionally the car will downshift itself and not want to shift at all, then everything will just start working again. The wipers started on their own. Finally the car died from what appeared to be a drained battery. I jumped the battery, which I just replaced a few days ago, and it started right back up.

I am thinking that it could be an issue with my alternator, but when I got the new battery, they say they tested the alternator and that it was good.

Jason7380 - did you ever get your issues figured out?  I have the same issue 2011 R/T AWD and they are telling me I need a new PCM (powertrain computer module) as it's not sending power to the alternator.  Just wondering if thatwas your issue as well?

Thanks 

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Hello I'm also having the same problem with my 2010 DJ. My new battery was drained completely overnight. The car started with random horn which could be off anytime even midnight. At the dealer they said my battery was low even though it was six months old. I bought a new one but the horn didn't stop. I disconected both horns, but my battery was discharged the following morning.  I jumpstarted it and it did start but the battery doesn't seem to charge since the car needto be jump started everytime it swiched off. Recently the check battery, flat tyre, engine light, and and ebd lights flicks while driving and the car looses traction. What might be the problem

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Bad connections. Bad alternator, etc.

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Hi - I'm new to this forum..Can I post a question about my 2011  Dodge Journey RT to this thread? 

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?

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Sure. Why not?

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So is Tasha a half post wonder???

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