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lemdog

Journey Member
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lemdog last won the day on August 31 2016

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About lemdog

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    Canada Ontario
  1. So i am following up on my post, I spoke to my neighbor (mechanic for Dodge/Chrysler) and he suggested i go after the calipers and change them out. We had a long discussion about it all and his experience in almost all of these cases have been calipers over anything else. So i picked up some calipers and changed them Sunday night and bled the brakes. All seemed well cept i still had some vibrations and heat still producing from front. Hotter than what should be expected. I then decided to replace rotors as i am sure they were pretty much ruined and about a year old. (they were pretty much CRAP especially on the inner side) Yesterday I replaced front rotors, ensured the slide pin bolts were bolted (keeping inner nut stable) and could move the caliper to-and-fro on the glide pins, and also, managed to safely get a screw driver into the clip the flex-hose runs through and opened it slightly just to avoid any pinching. once all had been done and after a few good drives between yesterday and today......... no vibrations, no heat, seems to be normal operating temperatures. BUT i do want to add, that since i did change many things, its hard to tell exactly WHICH one fixed the issue. I can say that i have experienced the vibrations before under braking and it had to do with how you tighten the slide pin bolts. you NEED to make sure you hold the inner nut with a 15mm wrench while you tighten the pin bolt and ensure you can move/slide caliper to and fro. I say this because I experienced this before on our 2010 caravan (same brake design) and fiddled with the pin bolts and inner nut and it did solve the odd vibration issue. i believe that if the slide bolts/caliper bolts are NOT properly tightened, then it will be incorrectly mounted causing the caliper/pad to be against the rotor at all times, causing wear, heat and vibrations once you hit the pedal. next..... two rear wheel bearings and a set of 4 new tyres. (when $ permits).
  2. @2late4u yup, definitely drive in some harsh salty winters thats for sure!! Rust proof my car every fall. i inspected the rubber lines last night and there is a metal clip the hose runs through that is bolted to ......something, i forget what and cannot picture it but the clip does look like it "Could" cause a pinch of some type. was tempted to see if i could open that clip a bit to relieve any squeezing, but i didn't touch. the hose route is the least expensive and i have priced it out already. funny enough, i just found out my new-ish neighbor is a mechanic......... for Chrysler!!!!!! Bro, why didnt i know this a year ago when they moved in!?? haha! i still plan to catch him and have a chat to get his thoughts. thanks for your feed back. i will post back later as i like to update to give others information. i am not a one post wonder and find it annoying!!
  3. If the general response is "go after the brake hose lines next" please feel free to scorn me for posting something that already has many posts on here. I don't mind. Haha! I will go after that next. (ps.... there is no pulling to one side while braking either!)
  4. Hi all, first off, sorry for the wall of text, but i am just trying to eliminate everything to find the source of the problem. Recently my '11 AWD front brakes started to get super hot. About 3 weeks ago, my inner left pad had worn down to nothing. So I replaced the pads. I am well familiar with the issues with the size of the <2013 Journey brakes. Have also had to replace rear pads due to excessive wear and sticking a few times. I have read as many posts about this as i can. Also have researched and watched many videos on the U-toobz. I am just trying to eliminate everything i can so i know what to replace next. Rotors are about 1yr old. No pulsing in pedal or steering shake under braking. (experienced many warped rotors) Pads about 3 weeks old. Symptoms: -Heat and brake smell after driving. I drive mostly highway. -Vibration felt during braking from high speed (comes in waves during braking) -Slipping/jittering(?) sensation when almost to a stop but still brakes biting and allowing me to stop. Observations: -wheel can move while off the ground so the piston/pads don't seem to be 'locked' to the rotor -rotor can move by hand once tire is off -i can push in the piston via C-clamp with not TOO much effort -i can push in the piston via screw driver before taking caliper off -pads move freely in the slots and are greased up a ton -glide pins are greased and move freely and normally -caliper moves nice and freely once all assembled (before pushing brake pedal) -piston is lubed I have gone over the above carefully many times and still there is heat and symptoms. My guess is that the piston is not retracting. My next check/replace would be the rubber brake lines as i have read about those pinching and not allowing proper flow-back of fluid to release piston pressure. Perhaps the rotors are now cruddy due to warping? Is there a proper test to do to check to see if its actually the brake line (rubber hose) that is causing the issue? Or is there anything i have missed? i have seen a few caliper pressure test videos using the bleeder screw. I have done hundreds of brake pads/rotors but this journey has given me the most brake grief in the past year. I have owned it for about 4yrs now. i don't want to just start ordering parts for $$ if i don't need to. thanks for any response/info if you have any recommendations.
  5. AWD rear spindle nut size?

    just had mine off a few weeks ago prepping for wheel bearing work. i used a 1.25inch socket i believe.
  6. hey guys, (2011 R/T AWD) I have a rear wheel bearing gone. I haven't been able to determine which one yet but my best hunch is the right rear. (audible detection, a bit of heat on the hub, but no real play during a 9-3 o'clock and 6-12 o'clock grip position to move) I have done wheel bearings before in the olden days where you had to pack the grease in the bearings but nowadays, its all one unit/hub. I recently did 2 on my wifes 2010 Caravan and our design is the same so i know what i am getting into. Lots of smashing to break the hub free from being rusted in there. the strange part is, they sell a 'left rear bearing' and a 'right rear bearing' for the journey from what i can see in my searches. for different prices too for each side!. (The caravan did not distinguish between sides) Mine is an AWD so that may come into play as to why they sell a specific "right and left". Anyone have any experience doing their rear bearings and is there a "right and left" difference?
  7. just following up for the benefit of others, i ordered the actuator from amazon (half the price from what my auto parts retailer was selling it for) and replaced it last night. its a finicky job, i had to contort myself across the center console and put my head down to the passenger foot-well to get a proper angle on the 2 screws. after determination, moving stuff around and scratched up hands, i replaced the actuator motor and the problem has been fixed. here is a link to the one i purchased for reference: https://www.amazon.ca/Dorman-604-029-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B00HRSP2A6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518548970&sr=8-1&keywords=2011+DODGE+JOURNEY+HVAC+HEATER+BLEND+DOOR+ACTUATOR&dpID=41bZSMp5cQL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
  8. thanks, already started the youtube hunt.
  9. ok thanks, yeah thats what i first thought of when i heard it, some sort of gear grinding when something is stuck. hard to replace or hard to get to to replace? and what would i actually be looking for? im sure google university can help perhaps.?
  10. Hi All, (2011 R/T AWD) It started yesterday when I started the car there was a clicking sound (for about 5-8 seconds) from what sounded like behind the glove box area. "click click click click click click click" Its loud enough to tell there is something there clicking. my first thought was the venting system or something was out of gear....like when you change from dash to floor.... the mechanism gears are missing/skipping. It does this every single time I start the vehicle. no other times, just right after startup. I read somewhere it could be an actuator(?) any ideas?
  11. lemdog

  12. just to update, I checked the fluid level and it was at or just below the "min" line on the reservoir. so I added more fluid to the "max" line (proper fluid) and about a day or so later, the noise has now disappeared. All seems ok. maybe took a bit of time for extra fluid to get into the system. who knows. anyways just thought I would update this thread for the benefit of others.
  13. hello all, for a little while now, I get an odd noise when making left turns at low speeds such as through a subdivision/parking lot. it almost sounds like a power steering whine as if when making the left turn the fluid sloshes over and is low enough to make the whine. (make any sense?) I do know what a power steering unit sounds like when its low or out of fluid from past experiences on other cars. its just briefly until the turn is over and I am in a straight line again. not SUPER loud or anything but just enough to either indicate what seems to be low-ish fluid or like the engine shifting and pully's out of alignment.(??) I checked the fluid level but the reservoir has some in it but not sure if it requires more up to the 'fill line'? hard to determine the fill line. also would like to mention that during the winter in extreme cold mornings, during startup, there is a TREMENDOUS whine which also makes me think of alternator and/or power steering pump super cold and not pumped through the system yet. the sound is SO loud until about 30sec into warm up. I've never heard or have had a car make that loud of noise on super cold mornings during initial startup. just wondering to myself if they are related. any thoughts or comments are welcome. thanks!
  14. Door pillar scuzz/build up

    Yeah I noticed they do look like stickers. I had some Mr clean magic erasers so I gave it a try. It got the gunk off but you can see where it's more scrubbed "clean" Oh well. As long as it's not rust and that it's clean for now. Here is the after results. I could scrub the rest of the pillar to blend it all in. Who knows.
  15. I have a 2011 silver RT. A few months ago I noticed some build up on the door pillars on the driver's door and driver side rear passenger door. I figured it was hand grease building up from closing the door so many times. I tried some hot soapy water and cloth to scrub it off but it really didn't do much. I can almost use a finger nail to put a light scratch in it but still it won't come off with warm soapy water. Anyone else have this happen and any suggestions on how to scrub it off? I don't want to be too abrasive on it. I will try to attach 2 pics I took in the morning sun. It only appears on the driver's side. The rear is used a lot because of me putting the kid in the back seat. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.
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