Camper

Issue was resolved today, by installing the harness with relay and one resistor. Now all LED light bulbs (same as jkeaton use) working as a charm, low beam, high beam, fog lights

It work, i replaced on mine 2016,  with regular 194, no issue. 

Looks like is not installed correctly, maybe?

Looks like is not installed correctly, maybe?

Here is the actual link for Mopar hitch: http://moparonlineparts.com/dodge-journey-hitch-receiver-p-2441.html
Also I attached instruction for how to install the hitch.
Thx
Hitch instalation instruction.pdf

Went to dealer for oil change today and dealer updated software for the transmission. Interesting, it 2016 Journey and all ready software update..However I do not see any TBS for that.

Returning home from long trip and on last Sunday, got ""check engine light"" on my 2016 Journey (22000 km), connected the scanner and get the following error:"""P084b-Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch H Circuit Range/Performance"", Transmission stuck in one gear and do not changed it went to "limp" mode, however it goes to reverse as well.. So I can go 60 km/h on 4000rpm. Dropped car to dealer and get "Valve Body" replaced, everything done under warranty.
On my previous Journey-2012 (161000 km) never have this problem.

Should work, without any issue. Sales man`s from LKQ, not always provide correct information. I deal with them in the past.

When it start shake, check the RPM, my 2012 did shake a bit, at the stop, When it start shake, the RPM goes below 500. However, at this time AC , or Heather is running.

It missing on my 2016 as well

Check the lugs on both front tires, maybe you get some loose.

Check the lugs on both front tires, maybe you get some loose.

I have Samsung, and it working fine, same vehicle.

Trade mine 2012 Crew with 161000 k to 2016 in February. Only small issue on my old 2012 Journey, and it stop auto unlocking driver side,Other then that just a regular maintenance including replace front brakes.

That is correct. Exhaust is the same, for SXT, Limited, Crossroad, RT.

I was at dealer ans saw, what he did, VIN from donor is requirement to get radio work on new vehicle. Also, before I went to dealer I contacted to online services to get unlock code and they do specifically ask for VIN from donor vehicle, it requirement. When radio first installed on the car and car is turned one, it assigned VIN and generated security code and get that code to non volatile memory, built on the board in side that radio. The code will stay they forever, until dealer assigned new security code.When car is started, the PCM module is checking the radio security code and compared to VIN on new car,and then you radio start working.If the security code is not there or it not matching your VIN, radio do not work at all.
In conclusion, to generate new security code, donor VIN required, so the old security code, based on old VIN and associated with old vehicle can be deleted. Also, donor VIN, required to update a sales code on the dealer database.

Is not correct. My previous Journey-2012 built in 2011. You do required SN number and donor VIN, I am done this kind off swap and I tried your suggestions, it didnd work, intill i provide VIN from donor and dealer generated the unlocking code. You can get that service online for a fee, however dealer do it for free.

Yes, it does. I swapped radio on 2012 Journey, and security code is built in the unit, to protect that unit from stealing. When you install radio from different journey, it not will work until you punch 4 digit security code and re-associated new radio with your car.

I was at dealer ans saw, what he did, VIN from donor is requirement to get radio work on new vehicle. Also, before I went to dealer I contacted to online services to get unlock code and they do specifically ask for VIN from donor vehicle, it requirement. When radio first installed on the car and car is turned one, it assigned VIN and generated security code and get that code to non volatile memory, built on the board in side that radio. The code will stay they forever, until dealer assigned new security code.When car is started, the PCM module is checking the radio security code and compared to VIN on new car,and then you radio start working.If the security code is not there or it not matching your VIN, radio do not work at all.
In conclusion, to generate new security code, donor VIN required, so the old security code, based on old VIN and associated with old vehicle can be deleted. Also, donor VIN, required to update a sales code on the dealer database.

Do you have a 4.3" or 8.4" screen? Do you have a navigation, or just a satellite radio? All radio is compatible (well almost) with your journey. However, you do required VIN number from donor, to get unlock your new radio, after installation in to your car.

At least all this modifications, do not void warranty:"NON-FCA MODIFICATIONS
The warranties in this booklet do not cover repairs required because of non-FCA modifications,
installation of special equipment or accessories, or use of special materials, fuels or additives. This
includes special bodies, body conversions, fuel system conversions, trailer hitches, window tints,
sunroofs, theft alarms, etc. Non-FCA modifications do not by themselves void your warranty, but they
are not covered by your warranty.""""
""""""

It will fit, I have swapped my summer 19" tires, for winter driving with winter tires 16" .

The injectors do indeed make a clicking noise that is audible with a mechanic's stethoscope, and that is a good way of verifying an injector is not dead, but that noise is not normally audible while the engine is running, and I doubt that is what you hear without the stethoscope. Valve noise is more common; if that is what you are hearing it will become much louder then you take the oil filler cap loose (be aware oil may splatter when you do that). Exhaust leaks around the manifold gasket make a surprisingly metallic sound that typically is loudest when cold and quiets down when the manifold warms up but from what you have said I don't think that is your sound - I think it is valve lash or (if you have hydraulic lifters) a collapsed lifter.
Clicking or ticking sounds from fuel injectors is normal. Most likely the fuel system cleaner has removed some gunk and varnish from the fuel system that was providing some "cushioning" to the injectors and quieting them slightly.
There's nothing that you can do to make it go away. As long as the engine is running normally and the ECU isn't throwing an error code there's nothing to fix. Arguably you could replace the injectors and any rubber components of the fuel delivery system and that might lessen the noise level slightly but the cost would far outweigh any benefit.

The injectors do indeed make a clicking noise that is audible with a mechanic's stethoscope, and that is a good way of verifying an injector is not dead, but that noise is not normally audible while the engine is running, and I doubt that is what you hear without the stethoscope. Valve noise is more common; if that is what you are hearing it will become much louder then you take the oil filler cap loose (be aware oil may splatter when you do that). Exhaust leaks around the manifold gasket make a surprisingly metallic sound that typically is loudest when cold and quiets down when the manifold warms up but from what you have said I don't think that is your sound - I think it is valve lash or (if you have hydraulic lifters) a collapsed lifter.
Clicking or ticking sounds from fuel injectors is normal. Most likely the fuel system cleaner has removed some gunk and varnish from the fuel system that was providing some "cushioning" to the injectors and quieting them slightly.
There's nothing that you can do to make it go away. As long as the engine is running normally and the ECU isn't throwing an error code there's nothing to fix. Arguably you could replace the injectors and any rubber components of the fuel delivery system and that might lessen the noise level slightly but the cost would far outweigh any benefit.

I guess, screen protectors for mobile phone will do the trick.