warbird24

Going to depend on the wheel.... If you have wheel covers on steel wheels you will have exposed lug nuts. If you have alloy wheels you will have non-exposed or capped lugnuts. a Capped Lugnut is a two piece affair that uses a cap over a nut to dress it up. Much cheaper than a proper non-exposed lugnut.

Not sure what to tell you. I know driving ours that it seems to gain speed easily going down hill. It is one of the most free rollingcars we have ever owned. In hilly areas I try and take over instead of having the cruise do it for me. I get much better mileage doing this than letting the cruise do it. I can anticipate hills better and then take advantage of the hills also. I do fee that once broken in that I will be able to better the indicated EPA estimate on the road with this Journey.

Might get a quicker answer and a more technical one by going to this site: http://mofv.com/mygig/ A Lot of information there and there are also tech links to the folks that actually make the MyGig radios if all else fails. While the cord in the glove box is a pain, My iPod stays in there now, out of sight and out of mind. We don't use it much anymore around the house so it's probably safer there.

As per the OBD II Specifications it needs to be within 2 feet of the Steering wheel unless exempted. I have not gone looking for mine but in most cases on Chrysler Products they are on the front edge of the underside of the dash. Note: There is no rhyme or reason which direction or orientation for these connectors.

The Battery is one of my concerns also. It's location and difficulty getting too it is another. Why Chrysler insists on putting batteries in locations that normal folks have problems getting to is beyond me. At least my 93 Caravan was right on top. This Journey is a pain to get to the battery.

Not enough info to comment on here. For a proper diagnosis a Tech would need to know how far you drive on a given day, how long the car sits between starts as well as where it sits during those down times. Batteries do go bad from HEAT as much as they do from the cold weather. I have replaced more batteries this month than I did in ALL of March or April. There are things that can drain a battery down. Simple thing like a dome light way in the back being left on. Had that happen to us with our New Journey, the grand kids had left a light on in the middle row and that drained the battery. That is not a failure or fault of the design nor Chrysler, it just happens.

That is some great gas mileage you are getting there. Mine is still being broken in but when I drive it I can do about 24 mpg around town and such. Wife gets about 20 mpg doing the same driving with a heavier foot. I would venture to say once I get about 5000 miles on it it will get around 24to 26 mog on the road and I'd be happy with that.

If it is the "Check Engine" Light that is part of the OBDII system and a user can not reset it. You have to correct the problem first and then allow the system to reset itself. These lights can be as simple a problem as the gas cap not being on tight enough, or as complex as a engine misfire. At least have someone read the code and see what it could be. Many Auto Stores provide these services.

In our R/T we have the base Radio which is the REN that has the AUX plug on the front. We also have the U-Connect and the Convienece Pack II. When we got our R/T the iPod cable was in the glove box and was not hooked up to the port. In Ours the connector is in the glove box and the aux cable gets connected to that. The iPod we leave right in the glove box and we control it via the touch screen or steering wheel controls. I have heard that on some radios you give up this port if you have the Navigation option because that port gets taken for the Nav system. In other words you can have one, not both. I have my own Garmin Truck Series NAV system that I bought last year when I was drive big rigs. I felt I didn't need the NAV added to our R/T.

Been wrenching on my cars as much as possible for as long as possible. While I let my oil drain, I have lots of time to look under the car and inspect things, look for leaks and in some cases wonder out loud to myself things like HOW do I get the starter outta there if it fails! LOL! Shoot, my new Camaro is a dream compared to the Journey in terms of access to parts under the car. On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being TAKE it to the Dealer, I'd give this one a 2 for sure.

A few other folks have bought them here and have been pleased so far. I just want the brake dust to be less than the originals. I'll watch and see how they fair and how the dust problem does also. Looking at my Jeep, I am very pleased at the wear and the lack of dust.

I usually have no problem with brakes even on cars prone to brake problems. This new R/T has had TERRIBLE brake dust. It is the worst car I've ever owned for that. I thought my 03 Jeep was bad, but this is much worse. So much so that at 1500 miles I went in and bought some Ceramic pads to replace these things tonight. About 15 min of my time and another 15 to properly bed them in to the rotors and all seems better already. I bought "LIFETIME" warranty pads at the same store that I bought the full ceramics for my Jeep. Just came back from a decent length ride that would have produced some dust and I didn't see any. So fingers crossed! Chris

I am not sure if this site can help or not: http://mofv.com/mygig/ They do have a tech support e-mail where you can ask questions directly. Chris

Just finished up on the first oil change on our Journey R/T. Things went well. I pay attention to placement, any wet spots, chaffed wires, and all sorts of things when I do these. I can't believe all the stuff underneath one of these! Whew! I put a Mobil1 Filter and Mobil1 10w-30 oil in the Journey today. We're right at 1500 miles and I like to do the first oil change early just in case. The FACTORY Oil filter was weeping a little bit. I have the Trailer Prep group with the extra Oil Cooler and this might be why. There looks to be an added assembly where I suspect the stock oil filter would be. This places the oil filter further aft on the engine, but no problem getting it off. The Oil Sump is a solid aluminum pan. Very stout. A 12 MM drain plug drops the oil out of the engine. I also noticed that this drain plug was NOT as tight as I would have figured. I have had many problems doing the first oil changes in the past, but my last few cars have been painless as this one is. NOTE: I did NOT reset the oil minder this time. My next change will be at 4000-5000 miles and I would like to see if this notice will come up during this time period.

Seems about right to me. My New R/T runs in about the same place. Due to emission controls and such cars do run hotter than they used too, this is one of the reasons you need to keep good oil and good coolant in vehicles. One of the many mistakes people still make is not checking their fluids or even knowing how! Chris