Armando G

Been a while since I've been on here, but I did get everything done. I have a good friend that owns a Mercedes shop and he did all of the rockers, a couple of camshafts, and a few other items under there for under $3k. I do have the 3.6 and it truly took about 8 hours to do it all over 2 days. I was also able to see the car when it was taken apart, and he showed me the 2 broken rockers and the camshafts. I decided to change 2 of the of the camshafts, even though he gave me the option to keep one of them. The other two were smooth and in great condition. After some more conversations with the dealer, the average price to do this whole job (without the $400 camshafts) would have been $4,600. The car is running great and I have an 18 month warranty if anything goes wrong. I've been on a couple long trips since the work and no issues so far. My DJ is still going strong with no issues. Oh, and believe it or not, I've always used high quality full synthetic up with every change. The issue was the lower quality rockers used in the original construction.

Well, hit the big one and my rockers seem to be 'ticking' now. Dodge quoted $2400 to inspect, then they'll give me a final price...ugh. Anyone else replace their rockers (or lifters)? I got another quote for no more than $2000 with all lifters and rockets replaced.

Well, it finally happened - I hit the 100k mark on my girl. After 8 years of ownership and many long trips, I am still happy with my DJ. She gets me where I need to be and runs as smooth as the day I brought her home. Other than a sensor going out at the 90k mark, I've just had to do regular maintenance. I have also completed the 100k mile service, which was a bit pricey but well worth it. Here's to another 100k with no major issues...?

Are you saying anyone can program the remote start on these cars? Or was that included in one of the purchases you scored?

My first inclination is a bad starter. If you can pull it out you can take it in to get tested. Other than that, make sure your ground wire has a good, clean connection. If there are codes, they usually don't pop up unless you can get the car started (someone correct me if I'm wrong), so no codes will pop up in just the run position. Guess it could also be the starter relay.

Ouch... an aftermarket harness would have cost $50 plus about 20 minutes. I got quoted $270 when I was adding my hitch, so went with an aftermarket. At least it's done.

Nice, huge win figuring out the camera without having to replace everything. That's always a great feeling.

@Dodgems I get a feeling you're kind of enjoying this project, and it's freaking amazing. Hope the wife is really happy with the results so far and the end result eventually. This is a great read... FOLLOWING!!!

Looks like you can still get it here... https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/dodge_2009_Journey-SXT-35L-V6-AT/Used-for-BOLT-AND-WASHER--Used-for-SCREW-AND-WASHER-Hex-Head-M6X100X2500--M6x1x25-Export--Inner--Left--Mounting--Right--Right-or-Left--Used-for-Right-/6723493/06105098AA.html

So last week I got in my DJ, drove off, and within a block it stalled and idled really roughly. The CEL came on as well as the traction control light so I immediately made a u-turn (as it died 3 times while doing it) and headed back home at a high speed of 20 MPH since it would not go any faster. After the typical reaction of SOB!!!!, I grabbed my reader and hooked it up to the car. Reader showed the following codes - P0345, P0390, P0339, P0365, P0365p/d - and all I could see was money signs flying away from me. Like your typical DIY'er I got on the computer and started looking it all up and it pointed to the Camshaft Position Sensor 1 & 2. Look up the part and it is a very affordable part...NICE!!! Unfortunately, to actually replace that cheap little sensor (X2) you have to dismantle the car and remove the intake manifold...DAMN. Well, I figured I am at 91K miles so might as well do the spark plugs, coils, and anything else that is called for in the 100K mile service AND I wanted the dealer to do it since I have not had any issues in the 7+ years I have owned the car. So I make a call to the local Dodge dealer and almost had a heart attack (Esther, I'm coming!!! for you older guys). The quote to get it all done was $2092 that also included a visual inspection of the brakes, hoses, belts, and fluids. Told them to remove that stuff I can do that myself - price dropped to $1982. They also mentioned that it would take some time to get the parts, about a week. Fast forward to the next day after I calmed down - I got on the internet to see how much parts would be if I did it all myself using instructions from this forum and YouTube, considering I have rebuilt cars in the past. I have no warranty issues to worry about and feel very comfortable doing this type of work. Here is the 'Holy Sh!&' moment. As I was searching the parts, there was an article on another Doge car that stated, "Make sure the connections are clean and tight on the sensor before doing anything else. You are able to reach the connectors without removing anything else". Hmmmm...I have nothing to lose so lets take a look. Headed to the car, started it up just in case it magically fixed itself and still got all of the codes. The car was idling rough and would not make it down the street without dying. So popped the hood, found the sensors, and cleaned them up really good. There was a bunch of dirt and some other crap on the connectors, so I made sure everything was off of them. Plugged them back in, got my code reader ready, and started her up. No CEL and no traction control light. I put her in Drive and she ran as smoth as the first day (or at least two days ago). Drove it a couple of miles jsut waiting for things to go bad, and NOTHING. Came back home, hooked up my reader and no coeds at all. It's now been 5 days of driving the DJ as I would normally and there has not been a single issue. I am writing this because I always tell people to start with the basics before assuming. Sensors can be affected by a dying battery or a bad connection, which one of my mechanic friends reminded me of a couple of days later. I jumped to a very expensive conclusion and almost dropped the car off, if it wasn't for a delay in getting the parts in to the dealer. I am so thankful it worked out this way and I am still really glad I bought my DJ. Now I am starting to buy all of the parts for the 100k service and planning on doing it myslef this summer.

@hexnut what was the result of this issue? I just got the same exact codes and am wondering if it is the sensors or a weak battery. i still have the original battery in the DJ and there have been a couple other electrical hiccups.

Well, my 2015 DJ hit 90k on the clock this past week and I am still as happy with it as the day I bought it. She's carried my 4 kids on long trips, pulled a trailer when I moved my daughter, driven in the snow and ice, handled 120 degree weather, and been my 'get away' spot when I needed to just take off. She got a new transmission under warranty at around 30k miles and I just replaced the thermostat. Other than that I'm still on the original battery, original brake pads and rotors, and everything still works as expected. I do perform regular maintenance as advised, and don't abuse her (too much). My DJ has been a great SUV for me and even when I look at other cars to buy, I end up sticking with my DJ.

This all sounds like a battery, but did you try to have it jumped before they towed it? If jumping it worked then that would answer a lot and give you an opportunity to drive it to get the battery tested - usually for free. The hard brake pedal happens and should not really be a concern. I hope you went with the tow truck to make sure they stay with checking the battery(?).

That kind of sound makes me think it might be a belt or per steering pump. Not sure if you checked the belts but take a look and take a look at your PS fluid. Otherwise, as stated above ☝

Man, I love reading your post. There's lots of great memories in my DJ as well and it's treated me really well. She's been paid off for a while now and no major repairs - well, out of pockets repairs... had my transmission replaced under warranty. I really enjoy doing my own repairs as well, but haven't had to do much of that at all - instead I took around on my kids cars. Anyway, welcome to the forum.

Welcome aboard. Enjoy the new DJ!!!

I did a 500 mile trip this past week to Central Oregon with about 200 miles of frozen roads. I went from nice clear weather in CA to snowy, freezing weather in Oregon. This was the first time I drove my DJ in 20 degree weather with frozen roads, and it did not disappoint. I kept up with all of the big tire studded trucks and all wheel cars that were out there with me (I have the FWD model). Felt in full control the whole time and used the Autoshift option to control my speed and stops. I also dealt with 3 feet of snow fall on the 4th day with no issues at all. I was surprised that OR does not salt their roads like what I'm used to in CA - they use a gravel/sand looking stuff that doesn't really do much. Anyways, just wanted to give the '15 DJ a positive review and state yet again how happy I am with this thing. If you're wondering, I was helping my daughter buy a house and wanted my tools and car to help with the move in and install of her things (we closed last Wednesday). She's amazing and I'm very proud of her.

Just realized you have to be a member of that group to see the post. Hopefully ok, but here is an image of the car...

Much appreciated write up and great idea on the new pan. How many miles on the DJ when you did the service? Was there an issue or just general maintenance? I'm nearing 90k, so figure i have some maintenance work coming up. I wonder if I'm going to have the '15 DJ to do another tranny service, but it's been great so far.

This is not my FB post, but saw the post below on how well the DJ performed in a horrible looking accident. Glad the people are doing well and were able to walk away from that accident. I love my DJ and really appreciate the fact that they do so well in an accident. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1711254609117017/permalink/3273727869536342/

Side note... remove the 2nd ground and check that the main ground isn't only tight, but making a good, clean connection at the opposite end - preferably metal to metal, not metal to paint. Clean out that connection as well as you can and reconnect. Just had to do that with my Ford that was having a very similar issue.

Sorry... couldn't resist.

@Yogitech1, looks like you just bought this car and have a lot of miscellaneous issues. Did you get the car checked before you bought it? Did you do a good check yourself before buying? Did you get a "good" deal on it? Do you have any maintenance records for the car? It is a 12+ year old car, so I assume there are going to be a lot of 'age' issues coming up with the car.

Out of curiosity, what codes did you get? Have you looked at any of the basics? Something as simple as needing a new air filter could cause the idle RPM to rise. I could give you a list of suggestions, but prefer to start with what have you already done? Anything at this point would be a shot in the dark.

@Yogitech1 uhhh, here's your chance to drive wherever your heart desires and trade it in with lower mileage (I know someone in here unclipped that speedometer cable way back when). Just saying...