SylvainB

Did you remove the entire knuckle !? I need to replace both ball joint and I don't want to if not needed since the only place to put the press is in the knuckle opening maybe the axle is in the way !? Since you said you didn't remove the speed sensor .....

Be aware that sometime it might be the knuckle bushings that are worned out and not the one from the control arms itself. When I jacked up my car I could see the wheel popping in when leaving the ground that is a sign of loose knuckle bushing but the Wheel won't have any play at all. I had to replace all 6 knuckle bushings, 3 from each side. You can do it yourself if you have a good press and a lot of different sleeves size and lot of times.

Did you fix it !? And how did you replace the heater core !? Mine has also a heat issue on passenger's side, door seems to move fine. If I turn off the climat wait like 1 minute turn it back on I got hot heat on passenger's side then gradually becoming less warm has the fan blows into the heater core. What helped me is changing my thermostat. Mine was opening way too soon like at 79C instead of 95C, air is hotter now but still not as warm as driver side. I'm planning to replace the heater core by cutting the pipe near the brake pedals but not sure if it applies on journey 2011, all I saw is a 2010.

When I replaced my struts on my dodge journery 2011 I used KYB strut. I didn't like the ride either before, was way too soft for me but struts were worned out so it didn't help (Original suspension). It was so stiff after that every other parts began to fall apart lol. I'm rebuilding the front. There'is an inner tie rod that has become loose and lower control arm needs replacement (talking about soft bushings)

I'll have it checked since you guys don't have that knocking sound. I ask him to check it when he replaced the right ball joint but I guess he forgot. My car still have a warranty on it, it does not cover all parts but lots of them. I want to keep it for at least 3 years if possible .... lol

Thank you, my dodge is on my profile, mine is a 2011 with 146000km on it. I know they're a lot of parts still to be replaced that can cause that kind of knocking. I replaced all the rear end, well mostly now I'm attacking the front end. I can still feel it "foat" when the shock is not absorbing. When I replaced the "Shocks" I only replaced the strut and not the strut mout like I did in th rear fault of money, was going for a long trip which cost a lot of money so was trying to a have a peace mind since my truck wasn't quite ready to tow 2000lbs in the shape it was before. I still managed to get back but broke the flexplate.

Does yours making a knocking sound when you turn left ro right when idling !? It is under warranty but not at a dodge dealer but I need to know before making an appointment if it's really a problem or it is normal.

Hello, As the title mentionned, I want to know if your DJs are doing a "knocking" sound when idling and rocking the steering Wheel left to right. Mine is knocking and want to know if it's normal or not. Also can be releated but when doing sharp turn you can hear slight knocking sound from left side. What has been replaced yet : Front Shock Strut Ball Joint Sway bar Link Both sides. Tie rods are 2 years old. This summer was planning on replacing lower control arms but wondering if I'm having bad CV Axles

On my dodge Journey 2011 the negative battery needs a 15mm socket but a 15mm universal socket didn't work. I'm facing the same issue, Bluetooth is not working anymore, when I press the button on the steering Wheel it does Nothing, press the "phone" icon on the uconnect 8.4 doesn't do anything either and now I can't set Bluetooth in the music player since it is not even an option anymore .... Guess my module is shot

Mine too during winter when it's Fuc"*&?68 cold outside there is a whining like it's going to throw a piston out but after 10 seconds (warming up) everything comes back to normal, DJ makes a lot of funny noise when starting up ... you'll get use to it lol I did see your last post ... ok "Brutal" may be not normal .... I'll check pulley .... I had all the pulley failed on me causing the belt to slip or it was your power steering pump ... but trust me it does whine during winter at -20 to -30, it can also throw codes ... it doesn't really like that mine last winter decided that it was bucking throw the "ETC" light, I turn it off, then on, was like nothing happened

I know mine cracked too and was looking for replacement .... damn so expensive and no the housing will fit in your Journey but it's not the same plug/wiring so you won't be able to get the light working you may have to replace the plug by cutting the original and tapping to the wire see if it works .... but it's risky, I won't do that, save money and buy a LED replacement.

It's probably just a sensor, traction control needs the ABS sensor to fonction properly so if one of your ABS sensor is bad that's why you have both lights ON. As all said, you need an OBD II reader to know which one failed or what is the cause for the lights to be on. With the codes it will be easier to know what to do, changing ABS sensor is pretty easy if that's your problem and the sensor itself is not expensive. But again you need to at least get someone to the read the codes. I wouldn't go the the dealer just for reading codes but that's just me .... I bought on eBay and OBD II reader that plug's in a computer (replicate one of the old version) for 5 bucks, it's not genuine but it's work as intended on the dodge Journey mine is a 2011. Be prepared cause DJ may cost you some money to own. It's a nice car but you need to do some yourself.

Damn I used the T connector from CURT ..... so easy to get it working ..... don't have to mess up with reflashing PCM !? WTF

If you have a borescope camera, just put it Inside the vent to see what's going on, that's what I did to see if all doors were moving properly. If you don't have one ..... you can buy one cheap on amazon it's always useful around the house loll.

Thank You Naval, I'll soon be redoing this and adding 4 pins for the trailer light. I though all the bolts were the same size ..... maybe that's what I did wrong or I'll just buy 4 longer screws. I do have pentrating oïl and that's what I did, using a pry bar with leverage but on YouTube it seems so easy with some sort of clamps. Anyway I'll rent a lift to do it this time. Now I'm about to change all 6 knuckle bushings and the 2 rear shocks so I'll be a bit busy. Bushings is not fun to do !!, I removed the knuckle twice and these fuckers won't move, I'll have to burn them off, man was hoping not to play with fire. If it can stop raining ......