OlDirty

Thought while my stereo is out of action I would get on with upgrading my fog lights, now I know you can buy angle eye LED replacements but where's the fun in that. Mine are installed in the original units and then all sealed back up, while I was at it I changed the fog light bulbs to led's aswell. I have run the extra cables in braid and cabled tied them along the factory wiring, then wire them to the relay then to ignition live. Shall take some night/day  photos once there wired up.

O wait hHah my bad now I under stand. Just plastidip them!

2 input wires (turn signal positive and brake positive) and 1 output wire that goes to the to the brake positive on the harness. You still need a resistor on each of the factory turn signal harnesses, but that is literally 1 wire tapped into the turn positive and 1 into the turn negative. The first light took me a little while as I figured out where I wanted to tap the wires and put the resistor, but the second side took maybe 5 minutes.
Here is their install video...

Looks Great! Super clean as well, almost looks like it should have been an option from the manufacture. How do they work? Can you control them (on or off)? Or are they always on? Any install pics? ..... Damn I sound needy! sorry bout that..... Oh yeah, why did you put the floor mats in like that? Shouldn't they be swapped (side to side)? Isn't the pad on there so you don't wear thru with the heel-toe motion? .... Okay! I think that's it..... I think I've had to much coffee.....Great mod though.....

The adapter came from twistedshifter.com and then you can use ant knob or handle that fits a "standard" 10mm 1-25 thread.
There is a bunch of youtube videos on pulling the original knob off. Basically you pry down and off the chrome trim and then you can spread the fingers on the knob and it pulls off.
Now that I have a Hurst Handle I can add the badge! Thats cool too. Also note the lighted rear fog lights.

I installed blue footwell leds in my 2012 dodge journey crew!
 

I'll be curious to see how the Plastidip holds up on the shifter.

Have you tried swapping the bulbs, side to side? Might be the easiest way to check if it is the bulb (quality) if one side is in fact working correctly.... Dammit I was really hoping this was going yo work out for you Roberto. Good luck on a speedy fix Sir.

I'm copypasta-ing this from another forum. With the rash of "I'm getting HIDs for my car" or "how to put HIDs in my Journey" or whatever threads. I urge anyone/everyone here considering it or with friends that do it to give it a read.

Ok, another fun rant for everyone...well, maybe not everyone. Those of who you care about "doing things right" and research your modifications before installing them, I'm not looking at you. Yes, there are correct ways to retrofit HIDs into your car that came with reflector housings. If you have done this, thank you and good job. If you have OEM projectors and have put HIDs in, then you're fine as well. The ones I am looking at, again, are those who blindly throw parts at their cars without even the basic understanding as to what they are doing. Today's focus is lighting. With the introduction of H.I.D (high intensity discharge ) or "Xenon" lighting in automotive applications, drivers have been given a better and safer way to see at night....mostly. This types of lights started out as OEM options and have slowly (well, back then) trickled their way down to the average consumer for a low price. At first, to have Xenon lighting in a car that did not come with it required getting a hold of an OEM setup, which was (and still is) very expensive. As aftermarket manufacturers saw the demand for these kits, they flooded the market with them for every automotive bulb under the sun. While a benefit to some, it has been a glaring problem to many motorists. Far too often, owners who like to modify their cars have been like horny leg-humping dogs by sticking these lights in every hole they can think of...weather they belong there or not. Not only have the applications of many of these lights been wrong, manufacturers have even gone as far as to manipulate the technology of these light to produce some of the most annoying and unusable lights ever conceived.

Let's look at a few basics.

Reflector vs projector housings..in one simple picture-



What is a H.I.D/Xenon bulb anyway? Well, your standard halogen bulb that has been standard for decades is nothing different in design than your typical household light bulb. It works by passing energy over a small filament which in turn causes the filament to become super heated and produce light. We should all understand how this works. Like this-



In HID or Xenon lighting, a small arc of plasma is created by energy passing through various gases and elements in a sealed chamber. This arc produces the light you see..it's kind of like a small lightning bolt to put it in simple terms. It works like this-



Let's discuss the two types of light bulbs and the two types of light housings used on cars today.

Now for a general light, this really is no different other than overall light output. The HID is able to produce a brighter light with less energy. But when it comes to automotive applications, things change...a lot. Automotive lights are designed in a very specific manner in order to put light where you need it, and not put light where you don't, as in putting light on the road and not in oncoming driver's faces. The general standard for years has been a halogen bulb in a reflector housing. In this housing, bulbs have a shield built into them to help control light output. Think of it like walking though a dark room with a candle to light your way. Notice that when you do this, the glare from the candle hurts your ability to see what you are trying to light up. What do most people do? Well, instinctively most people put their hand between their eyes and the candle. This is the same concept on most halogen bulbs and is designed to only allow light into a specific part of the reflector housing. You can see it here as a little piece of metal next to the filament-



And this is the desired effect of all of this. The location of the filament and the shield are super critical in the design of a reflector, changing the location of the filament's location even a couple of millimeters will change every angle at which the light travels, ultimately letting light go in places it was not designed to. This is is also the exact same reason why your high-beams project light much higher and wider- because the high-beam filament is no shielded and placed in a location that causes the light to scatter in a different direction.



There are many cars with projector lenses that use halogen bulbs. But the bulbs used in the projector housings do not, I repeat, do not have a shield on them. This is because the way a projector housing works, the lens (and if applicable, the shield build into the housing) does all the focusing. In some projector setups, both high and low beam patterns are available and are controlled with a movable shield. Here is an example of what I am talking about-



..and this is how a projector housing works-




Now when it comes to HID lights, almost all of the cheap/regular kits for most all bulbs are unshielded. There are a few exceptions that have a shield operated by a solenoid, but generally speaking most, if not all of your average HID installs in reflector housings are done wrong.

You average HID bulb looks like this-



Notice the little bubble in the middle? That is where the arc is produced and where the light comes from. Notice the difference in the following picture of the location of the halogen filament vs. the location of the HID "filament". This is the root cause of why putting HIDs in reflectors is never a good idea-
  This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

Upon changing the location of the actual light source, you get massive amounts of light scatter (glare). This is what is very bad and annoying to all other drivers on the road. You are essentially blinding them as if you were driving with your high-beams on. I've heard many people exclaim "but I can see so much better with my HIDs (in reflector housings)"...and this is only true because you are scattering light all over the place. Here are some examples of what I am talking about-

Halogen in reflector- This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

Halogen in projector-


HID in reflector housing- This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.



Notice all the light scatter/glare that is up higher than the "cut off" line? That is bad...very bad. I could post up numerous examples of this all day long. Even while it "might not look so bad", it is bad. Aiming your headlights down won't help any either. All aiming your lights down will do is move the focus point down, but glare will still be emitted up and out. Oncoming drivers will see this. Most people might thing your brights are on too....even though they're not. Both of the car in the following picture are equipped with traditional halogen reflector housings..but one of them had improperly installed HID lights, can you tell which one is which?


  This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

See how bad that is? Sadly, none of the people doing this actually care they are blinding other drivers...nor do they really listen to those who care to inform them politely.


Lastly, we have color. For whatever reason that I may never understand, people seem to love the blue/pink/purple lights too. They think it looks "cool" or that they can see better with it. In fact, no matter what the reasoning is, they are 100% dead wrong. HID lights, as many know, are offered in different "K" ratings. This is for Kelvin. The Kelvin range describes light at different frequencies. Here is a simple way to understand Kelvin (K) and light output-
  This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

In reality, anything above 5K is really not any more helpful or useful to the human eye. In fact, the lower the Kelvin rating, the "better" it is for your eyes. Natural sun light is actually pretty yellow. Regualr halogen light is also on the yellow scale. The human eye likes this and is why we can see the colors we see. Notice with a blue or red light how everything looks a single color? This is the same for HID lights in the 8K+ range. Your eye does not like the frequency and takes much longer to adjust as well as a severe loss of detail when looking at something. This is actually why police lights are blue...because they're VERY attention getting and police want you to see their blue lights from as far away as possible...so you know they're there. Blue/purple/pink headlights are terrible for your eyes. I could actually give much more detailed information as to why, but I don't need to be that technical right now. Just know, and please understand why all of this is so bad.



TL;DR? Just read this:


If you put HIDs in your car and they don't look almost exactly like this-


Then you are doing it wrong and irritating everyone driving down the road at night.

If your lights looks like this..regardless of the HID in reflector housing...
  This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.





...you are a danger to everyone else on the road.

Morimoto h1 projector high and low beam 6500k @35 watt

Panamera led drl in my headlights with mini h1 7.0 6500k xb hid bulbs, in my fogs I have xsb switchback turn signals

FRONT LIGHTING
Headlight Low Beam: 9006
Headlight High Beam: 9005
Fog lights: PSX24W (or 2504)
Turn Signals: 3757A
Parking Light: 3757A
Side Marker Front: 168
REAR LIGHTING
Tails w/LED: LED
Tails w/o LED: 3157
Brakes w/LED: LED
Brakes w/o LED: 3157
High Mount Stop Light w/LED & w/o LED: LED
Rear Turns w/LED: 7440A
Rear Turns w/o LED: 3157
Parking Light: 3757A
License Plate: 168
Reverse w/LED: 7440
Reverse w/o LED: 3157
INTERIOR
Dome Light: 212-2
Glove Box: 194
Map Light: 578
Cargo Area: 579
 
 

The makeshift pinch-weld adapter works pretty well.  It also helps that the library system my wife works for has a subscription to All Data DIY (or something else like it) that has full factory service manuals for just about everything - which includes the correct lift points for everything.
 
The real floor jack lift point on the Journey (for anyone who hasn't figured it out yet) is just behind and inside the front wheels, where the front lower control arm attaches to the front cross member - it's a nice big bolt with a cup around it and a few pieces of molded rubber around it to cushion a floor jack saddle.  Just put a hockey puck on the saddle and you prevent any paint/powder coat damage.
 
The jack stand/pinch weld adapter is then free to go in exactly the right spot on the weld right at the scissor jack point (if you don't put it on the cross member).  Zero paint damage, no bending of the welds.  No additional avenue for rust.  2 years in, still looks new.  To be fair, I've only had it up twice (each August since I purchased it).  I bought mine in February 2015, and I just crossed the 14,000 mile mark this month!

I got the wife the exact same (easy) gift for X-mas. You can never go wrong with THAT gift. The local tint shop ram their little scanner on the back windows and said they were 18.5%. Thanks Dodge! The shop owner suggested 15% if a match is what I was going for. Little did I know that 30% is the legal limit in my neck of the woods.... Hey Merry Christmas honey, your brand new car is No Longer Street Legal. Oops, My bad.
 
It's a pretty good match though! from the outside, all windows up, sun shining bright its very hard to see the difference. The front windows are a shade darker looking through them from the drivers seat.  

I'll never go back to halogen!

The one I posted I built myself. You can by the projector from the retrofit source and have fun. eBay is junk and a waste of money. I have about 700 dollars invested in my fog lights and headlights

This my friend is over 100 feet, you had a bad experience with projectors before cause you cheaped out and bought some eBay junk, probably a halogen projectorat that. If you want performance like mine. I might up 5 lanes wide. I'll never run halogens again. Ask me for more if your interested

I bought this kit:
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/2X-T25-3157-2835-42-SMD-Dual-Switchback-Load-Resistor-Turn-Signal-Light-LED-Bulb/32706708354.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.ifTq1u
I'm waiting to get it. As soon as I'll install it, I'll let you know and I´ll post a video of the risult.

Look in your owners manual for anywhere that it states that....look in any owners manual of any vehicle. You wont find that listed as a recommended service. As Anthony said, total BS and a waste of money. I wish dealers knew how much they make themselves look like idiots for trying to upsell unnecessary services. I guess there are uneducated suckers out there that fall for it though. Dealers are out to make money. Any way they can. If it's not listed as a recommended service by the manufacturer of your vehicle, then it is unnecessary.
If you do decide to have this service performed, be sure to have them check your blinker fluid and lube up your muffler bearings....

I've got my first oil change coming up as soon as I have time (vehicle only has 3,200 miles on it, but it's an August 2014 build, so it's time to remove the factory fill). In an effort to avoid damage to the pinch welds as long as humanly possible, I'm goign to construct some pinch weld adapters using regulation hockey pucks (3"x3"x1"). The plan is to use them for both the jack lifting plate (I'm cutting a 3/4" deep groove down the middle of one puck and calling it a day) and for the jack stands (I've got a set of Craftsman stands with no deep groove).
Plans for the jack stand adapters:
Cut one puck in half, leaving me with two semi-circles of 1" thick hard rubber.
Cut a 1" (more exact measurement to be taken against the pinch weld) deep groove in each half (across the long face that used to be the middle of the puck) to slide on top of the pinch weld.
Remove the bottom 1/4" from each puck to put a flat surface on the jack stand.
Does anyone see any potential safety issues?

last time i was at my dealership i asked them when should i have the trans serviced as i was getting close to 40 k and he said well we recommend that you change it around 35-45k so i said well doesn't the book call for it at about 120 k unless you do a lot of towing or heavy duty service then at 60 k . he just looked at me and said yes thats what the book says but you asked me what we recommend and i told you. so i guess he told me in his mind to go **** my self, but thats how they make their money i guess...

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Articles/Dodge-Journey-Common-Problems-Repair-Maintenance-Guides.htm

I was browsing the web and found the resource with workshop manuals, including DJ, and wanted to share with you. Models are sorted in alphabetical order, so scroll down to Journey
http://workshop-manuals.com/dodge/
Many pictures and pretty clear guides on many "how to's"
Enjoy and happy modding

Nice find. Too bad it's only for 2009 models and one 2011 model. I will pin this so it stays at the top of the section.

Lots of threads in audio infotainment section. Start reading.