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Spektyr

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Spektyr last won the day on August 23 2020

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About Spektyr

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  • Region
    U.S. Southern Atlantic
  • Journey's Year
    2018

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  1. One problem. There is no Mute button on the Dodge Journey setup. I've been searching forever to find a way to access the Engineering menu so I can do a Factory Reset on a radio I just got from Infotainment. It has this weird problem were the Nav system reboots roughly every 8 minutes. I just timed it to 7 minutes and 20 seconds. I need to do it again tomorrow to see if I get the same time between reboots. It's looking like some kind of software glitch. Too bad I can't find a way to download the software to refresh the system.
  2. I've run across a similar issue with a radio I got from Infotainment.com. It isn't constantly rebooting but it does it intermittently. I haven't tested the navigation on a drive yet but I suspect this will interrupt it in the middle of the drive. I made Infotainment aware of the issue and they sent me a list of procedures that I seriously doubt will solve the issue being I just installed the radio yesterday. Garmin Express tells me the software is up-to-date, CTP17 ver. 7.09. Is there a way to get the software using the serial number instead of my VIN# so I can try reinstalling it? Being this is not the radio that was originally in the car the VIN# won't do any good. I ordered the map update for 2020 since the maps listed in the radio are dated 2016. I'll install the map update when it is delivered and see if that works, otherwise I'll have to take this up with Infotainment. Oh joy! LOL
  3. Regarding Anti-Theft codes: I don't believe all vehicles have one. I recently replaced my battery and the original factory radio didn't ask for one. I've also checked the glove box and I don't see a label with a code. I'm in the process of acquiring an RB5 Nav radio. LKQ sent me the wrong radio, which was the same as the factory radio with no navigation, and I had to send it back. The radio they sent me asked for an Anti-Theft code. I finally found out that there are sellers on Ebay who will give you the code for about $3. The one I dealt with was gradiocodes. All they need is the radio's serial number. They sent it to me via message after just a few hours. LKQ is sending me another radio and it better be the RB5 this time or I'm just going to say "SCREW IT!" and ask for my money back. At least they were cooperative enough to send me a UPS return label. It should be from the same year Journey as mine so I don't expect any serious issues, and I now know a cheap way to get the code if I need one.
  4. I have the same problem with my 2018 GT, blurry picture and sun glare. The lens is clean and clear so I'm thinking it's the camera itself. I'm pondering replacing it but that will have to wait until I pay off my credit card for the RB5 Nav Uconnect head unit I just ordered. It's a salvage from another 2018 Journey that's costing me $420, $530 with a two year warranty and sales tax. I'm just wondering if my lifetime map subscription for my old NUVI 5000 will carry over to the Uconnect. I guess I'll find out soon enough.
  5. I ran into a Bluetooth issue on my 2013 SE (it completely stopped connecting even after a power reset) and changed out the module. It's a real dog of a job on that vehicle and required the removal of the brake pedal assembly, if I remember correctly. Now yesterday I found the battery in my 2018 GT drained to the point that the info display was dimming out and the fob wasn't being detected. I jump started it and let it charge for a while. So far today it's kept the charge, but I want to have the local Advance Auto guy put his analyzer on the battery just to check. I'm assuming it's the original factory battery and it"s reaching the end of it's life. I can replace it myself but it's a pain-in-the-butt job and I'm not looking forward to I'm hoping it's the battery because I don't want to go through the nightmare of changing out another Bluetooth module. Dodge engineers couldn't find a more reasonable place to mount that thing? SHEEESH! Note: I drove it a couple of days before this battery issue and all was okay then. I'll post an update after I have the battery checked.
  6. I didn't have this problem with my 2013 SE. I guess Dodge's quality control is going down the tubes.
  7. I have a 2018 GT and I've noticed it's a bit jerky with hard acceleration from a dead stop, which is sometimes necessary in cases of suicide entrances to local highways. Slow to moderate acceleration is relatively smooth. I'm thinking it's just the way the 6 speed tranny is designed and that it doesn't do well when you have to nail the gas to quickly get up to highway speeds. I don't normally use the Autostick mode because I'm not experienced with it, but I'll have to give it a try and see how well it works.
  8. I have the same problem on a 2018 GT that I got a few months ago. So I see this isn't an uncommon problem. I've been considering pulling the units off and bringing them in the house to dry out, but that will be temporary if this issue is caused by bad seals around the lenses.
  9. Update - The 8.4 works better with the newer Ipod but I just had to clear a bug in the hands free system by repairing my phone to it. A few days ago the people I called couldn't hear me but I could hear them. Repairing the phone cleared the problem so I now know how to fix it next time. Also, my phone doesn't always auto-connect to the system. It seems they haven't worked all the bugs out of these systems yet.
  10. This whole post is moot now since I'll have a 2018 GT with the Uconnect 3 8.4 in a couple of days. I hope that one doesn't have the same issue. I'll soon see. I will enjoy the V6 and 6 speed tranny though. That 4 cylinder/4 speed in my 2013 SE was is real wimp.
  11. I've been using an IPOD Touch 3rd Gen via USB for years without issues. I recently tried to use a 5th Gen IPOD Touch the same way and the sound is extremely distorted. Connecting via BlueTooth is ok and it works okay via USB on a Pioneer system in another vehicle, which proves that there is nothing wrong with the IPOD. It's bugging me why the older IPOD works okay on my Uconnect USB but the Newer one plays so distorted. I've tried turning the volume way down in the file tags to check if it's a hot signal issue but it still distorts at the lower volume. It's looking like a weird incompatibility between the newer IPOD and the Uconnect. Could it be a USB version issue? I've even reinstalled the firmware on the IPOD but that didn't resolve the issue. The files are the same as on the 3rd gen IPOD Touch. I've been hunting the internet for info on this but have found little and none of it provides a solution. Has anyone else run into a situation like this, and if so, have you found any solutions for the problem? Thanks in advance.
  12. Just an update on my situation: The new module is still working although my Android 7 phone sometimes refuses to connect to it. I usually have to power down the Journey, reboot the phone and and restart to get it to connect. At least it doesn't give me this issue all the time and I don't have to go through the nightmare of replacing the module again . . . . yet.
  13. For anyone who runs into this topic, I just installed a Trico Exact Fit 14-A on my 2013 Journey and it works perfectly. It's a double rocker and achieves full coverage on both swings. It's the best one I've found to date.
  14. Sorry everyone. I haven't checked this thread in quite a while. I have tried both the steering wheel button and the button on the Uconnect screen. They both seem to act the same way. The call connects and then is immediately transferred back to the phone. I have to hit the transfer button twice to transfer the call back to the Uconnect system and then I can work hands free. I'm still not sure if it is the phone doing it or the Uconnect. I do remember that when I was using an iPhone I didn't have this problem. Since I don't get calls very often while driving I don't consider this a major problem, but it would be good to know if there is a fix for this issue.
  15. Good point. I have to bring it in for a steering column harness recall so I'll question them about the code when I do. That stuff about the cam shaft timing makes no sense at all. That would be a P (Powertrain) code, not a C (Chassis) code, and like I said before the MIL is not on and the engine seems to be running just fine.
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