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bfurth

Journey Member
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Everything posted by bfurth

  1. Duct tape and crazy glue! That sucks - hope it heals better this time.
  2. Yikes! Hope recovery is going well.
  3. I do want to add to my pair/unpair routine suggestion: make sure that the Bluetooth audio source is unpaired as well. I had an issue when I first bought mine with an old POS phone that paired in two menus under the device menu (phone and audio), and it would not cooperate until I figured out how to remove both pairings.
  4. I've got a 2010 Town and Country with a 62TE transmission and 140,000+ miles. I've had the fluid and filter changed twice (once at 60k, again at 120k, per the manufacturer recommended cycle under severe duty, since it was a rental fleet vehicle before I purchased it). It had developed a leak at the output shaft seal somewhere around 50k miles, and it was fixed under the powertrain warranty with no issues since. For every person blasting the component on the internet, there are a few hundred happily chugging along. Things break. Thing which move break faster. Things which move and pull several thousand pounds of metal and people break faster still. A vehicle is not an investment - it is a capital expense. Never forget that.
  5. Unpair the phone (delete pairing from vehicle and phone), reboot it, and pair it again. Make sure your phone has all of the required security and software updates. Also, Bluetooth is not perfect. I've had similar problems and could never get the dealership to recreate them.
  6. I know that there is a computer initiated bleed procedure for a newly installed ABS module. The correct procedure is 4 wheel bleed, ABS automated bleed, 4 wheel bleed again. If you don't have a scan tool capable of initiating that bleed, take it to a shop.
  7. bfurth

    Towing

    2100. The keyboard must have shifted on you.
  8. Word of advice before paying any dealership for any part - price match the part elsewhere, ESPECIALLY if it's something you can live without for a few days. A Bluetooth antenna on its own is dirt cheap (you can get a USB PC adapter for under $20). An automotive specialty part should not cost anywhere near $750. As for the Keyless Enter-N-Go - that's not exactly how that works. The key fob has to be within 5 feet of the door you are attempting to open. Go ahead - have someone try to open the passenger front door while you stand near the driver front door - it won't (shouldn't) work. There is a delay from the time I grab the door handle on mine to when it actually unlocks (less than one second). That's plenty of time for the door handle to sense an unlock request (the act of touching it creates that request), then transmit a local signal to detect the key fob, receive a return signal from the fob that it is in range and it is the correct key, and return an unlock command to the door(s) in question. Even mediocre programming wouldn't have it constantly searching for the key fob.
  9. At the very least, learn to do brakes yourself. There's no reason to touch the calipers unless they're leaking or fully seized. A 4 corner pad and rotor replacement can be done for $200 USD on the 2011, I don't think it's much more for later versions with the bigger brakes, plus the cost of obtaining appropriate tools if you don't already have them (socket set, jack, stands, wheel chocks, torque wrench, caliper wind back set - combined, you're looking at anywhere from $100 plus renting/borrowing what you need just for that job, $250 if you buy everything, and as much as you want if you buy it from a truck). Throw in an extra $10 for some sand paper (clean up the surface of the wheel hubs when you change rotors), anti-seize (makes removing the rotor the next time MUCH easier), and some brake grease (lubricate the slide pins - I've had friends with brake problems that were entirely due to the fact that the slide pins were bone dry), you could do the whole thing yourself in an afternoon for under $500 USD. The next time you'd have to do it, it's only $200, and under $100 if you catch the pads before they wear out. The way the older models (pre-2012) chew though brakes (single piston front caliper is the tell for the smaller brakes), you should learn to do it yourself. There are plenty of threads on this topic on this board (and I think one or two where I've posted the torque specs for the associated bolts).
  10. Have you consulted your owner's manual? That will tell you everything you need to know about the maintenance schedule and what items are required based on intervals. https://carmanuals2.com/dodge/journey-2011-owner-s-manual-31045 As for the alignment check - did they actually put it on an alignment rack and give you a readout of the current measurements? If not, how could they possibly know it's out of alignment (unless it's horrifically out of alignment)?
  11. My 2010 T&C threw a P0562 a few years ago. It was due to a failed battery. No other issues ever presented (other than those associated with a dead battery that won't charge anymore). The code specifically means "low battery voltage." It could be due to other issues, but if you've got an older battery and that code, it's past time to replace it.
  12. Which is utterly stupid, considering we have a computer display right in front of us. I second the "go to any auto DIY shop, or buy a code reader on Amazon" sentiment.
  13. I've used Wagner ThermoQuiet pads on multiple other vehicles and never had an issue with this kind of noise right out of the box. Sure, I get that after sitting for a day or two with rain, but who doesn't? If you're going to replace the pads with a different brand, re-do the entire job (aside from the rotors). That includes cleaning and re-lubricating the slide pins.
  14. For some reason, I don't think using an impact wrench is the right tool for the job...
  15. I need to replace the driver side seat track cover, and removal/installation requires disconnecting the anchor for the driver's seat belt. Does anyone know what the torque specification is for that bolt? Last thing I want is to replace it and get involved in a collision that kills me because I over/under tightened a bolt. My wife would be quite upset, regardless of the life insurance payout
  16. Given that it happened when changing gears, I'd say it's probably the transmission. If the fluid that is leaking is pink/red, that's more proof. You should still be covered under the powertrain warranty - have it towed to a dealer (which may even be covered under that warranty - but don't quote me on that) and let them fix it. Don't try to drive it until it's fixed (sometimes, you just have to state the obvious).
  17. It could also be a leak in the rear AC evaporator coil (just above the right wheel well), or it could be rear shocks. Between the components jkeaton mentioned and these, there really aren't any other fluids back there.
  18. My 2015 runs at (typically) 195 +/- a few degrees for coolant (which is expected, considering the thermostat is a 195 degree thermostat), engine oil is reported at 205 +/- depending on ambient weather (tops at around 210 in the summer in Baltimore) running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20, and the transmission runs at whatever it runs (the bar is always in the middle, so I don't pay much attention to it beyond that). All of this is with no towing, and as many as 5 passengers (one adult, 4 kids in car seats). If you're in very hilly/mountainous roads, the oil is going to run a little hotter than mine. Keep an eye on oil consumption/coolant-oil mixing (you should know what that looks like now) and for temperature spikes. Anything that isn't a smooth transition could indicate a problem.
  19. Don't take the Journey off-roading. That should fix some of your problems.
  20. And that weight limit is why I'll never buy a roof top tent. I'd rather get a cargo pod (already have it) and cross bars (need to buy them for the Journey) and then just put the seats in the back down. It's big enough to fit a twin mattress with both rows folded down. If I'm sleeping in the car, then it's without kids, and this storage method might be enough. I prefer close quarters for sleeping arrangements with my wife. Otherwise, I'll set up the "portable apartment." This is what happens when you have 4 kids and occasionally go camping. 9x13 8 person tent with a 6 1/2 foot center height. And more stakes than I ever feel like driving into the ground...
  21. The tire diameter on the Journey is approximately 36.75" (225mm * 2 + 19") - give or take a few hundredths of an inch. If you have a brand new tire, and one that is worn to 50% of tread depth, the difference in diameter would be roughly .25" (4/32" *2 for total difference). That equates to a total tread length of 115.45" for a new tire, and 114.56" for the 50% worn, for a difference of just under 1". What does that mean in real terms? The wheels will spin at different speeds. The new tire will take 548.8 rotations per mile, while the worn tire will take 553. For a new versus 50% worn tire, it looks like 4 extra rotations per mile for one tire versus the other. AWD must be incredibly sensitive. For those who would like to see the math: 225 55/r19 tire = 225mm sidewall height or 8.85827" diameter of tire = 8.85827" *2 + 19" = 36.71654" assuming new tire with full 10/32" tread diameter from top of tread to top of tread = 36.71654", total tread length = 115.3483" (36.71654 * 3.14159) 50% worn tire is 6/32" (leaving 2/32" as the discard tread depth, leaving 8/32" of usable tread). tire diameter is 36.46654" total tread length at 50% wear is 114.56" Edited to check my own math.
  22. I haven't had it done yet. I'm waiting for an insurance claim against another driver who was towing an open rail trailer with a pile of gravel all over it that hit a bump in the road and sprayed rocks all over the front of my DJ From the description of the problem (electronic controlled throttle, cruise control, and transmission, PCM calls for torque and simultaneously has an electrical short causing a stuck and non-responsive throttle), it should be little more than a programming change in a specific procedure (if loss of signal, cancel automatic throttle control). I'm not an engineer, but I do have a college course background in computer programming. Given that it is only a software update, this is a highly likely scenario for the fix.
  23. Use copper on the 2.4, not iridium. The Chevy EcoTec engine used iridium plugs. The only thing that EcoTec and the Chrysler World Gas Engine (the full name of the 2.4L in the DJ and many other Mopar vehicles) have in common is the displacement and the grade of fuel they use. I second the suggestion to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes while having the 1/2 and 3/4 coil packs swapped (you already replaced all four plugs - albeit with iridium). If the problem follows the coil pack, then you have your answer. If the problem stays where it is, I would think it's a wiring problem. If you get 4 new problems - rip out the iridium and replace them with copper, then test everything again.
  24. Chrysler made some major changes on the brakes from the early Journey and 5th generation Grand Caravan/Town and Country to the current "heavy duty" (read: mechanically adequate) brake system. Enjoy the brakes that actually work correctly for your vehicle dimensions. All I can find about brake discard specifications is for the rotors. Brake Rotor Rotor Thickness Minimum Rotor Thickness Rotor Runout * Front 27.87-28.13 mm 26.4 mm 0.050 mm 1.097-1.107 in. 1.040 in 0.002 in. Rear 11.75-12.25 mm 10.4 mm 0.050 mm 0.463-0.482 in. 0.409 in. 0.002 in.
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