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bfurth

Journey Member
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bfurth last won the day on May 21

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About bfurth

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    Journey Member

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  • Region
    U.S. Northeast
  • Journey's Year
    2015

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  1. Best Tire Deal I Could Find

    The tire diameter on the Journey is approximately 36.75" (225mm * 2 + 19") - give or take a few hundredths of an inch. If you have a brand new tire, and one that is worn to 50% of tread depth, the difference in diameter would be roughly .25" (4/32" *2 for total difference). That equates to a total tread length of 115.45" for a new tire, and 114.56" for the 50% worn, for a difference of just under 1". What does that mean in real terms? The wheels will spin at different speeds. The new tire will take 548.8 rotations per mile, while the worn tire will take 553. For a new versus 50% worn tire, it looks like 4 extra rotations per mile for one tire versus the other. AWD must be incredibly sensitive. For those who would like to see the math: 225 55/r19 tire = 225mm sidewall height or 8.85827" diameter of tire = 8.85827" *2 + 19" = 36.71654" assuming new tire with full 10/32" tread diameter from top of tread to top of tread = 36.71654", total tread length = 115.3483" (36.71654 * 3.14159) 50% worn tire is 6/32" (leaving 2/32" as the discard tread depth, leaving 8/32" of usable tread). tire diameter is 36.46654" total tread length at 50% wear is 114.56" Edited to check my own math.
  2. U49 Recall/PCM update

    I haven't had it done yet. I'm waiting for an insurance claim against another driver who was towing an open rail trailer with a pile of gravel all over it that hit a bump in the road and sprayed rocks all over the front of my DJ From the description of the problem (electronic controlled throttle, cruise control, and transmission, PCM calls for torque and simultaneously has an electrical short causing a stuck and non-responsive throttle), it should be little more than a programming change in a specific procedure (if loss of signal, cancel automatic throttle control). I'm not an engineer, but I do have a college course background in computer programming. Given that it is only a software update, this is a highly likely scenario for the fix.
  3. P2305 and 2311 codes.

    Use copper on the 2.4, not iridium. The Chevy EcoTec engine used iridium plugs. The only thing that EcoTec and the Chrysler World Gas Engine (the full name of the 2.4L in the DJ and many other Mopar vehicles) have in common is the displacement and the grade of fuel they use. I second the suggestion to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes while having the 1/2 and 3/4 coil packs swapped (you already replaced all four plugs - albeit with iridium). If the problem follows the coil pack, then you have your answer. If the problem stays where it is, I would think it's a wiring problem. If you get 4 new problems - rip out the iridium and replace them with copper, then test everything again.
  4. Chrysler made some major changes on the brakes from the early Journey and 5th generation Grand Caravan/Town and Country to the current "heavy duty" (read: mechanically adequate) brake system. Enjoy the brakes that actually work correctly for your vehicle dimensions. All I can find about brake discard specifications is for the rotors. Brake Rotor Rotor Thickness Minimum Rotor Thickness Rotor Runout * Front 27.87-28.13 mm 26.4 mm 0.050 mm 1.097-1.107 in. 1.040 in 0.002 in. Rear 11.75-12.25 mm 10.4 mm 0.050 mm 0.463-0.482 in. 0.409 in. 0.002 in.
  5. I have a 2015 with 22k miles (35k km) which has had nothing done with it other than oil and filter changes (besides a few collision repairs - none of the events happened while I was even moving!) Fuel economy is starting to fall off from original, but I'm replacing the spark plugs this summer which should clear that up. I've spent under $150 on maintenance in the 3 years I've owned it. I don't know what your reliability will be using LNG, but otherwise I've been very happy with mine.
  6. 2013 RT Seized Calipers

    That requirement for you to pay for the flush isn't outrageous. You paid for a maxcare warranty, brake calipers are a covered component. If you bring them an opened brake hydraulic system, they're going to charge you to fix it (unless it was caused by a failed caliper piston seal). You took it apart, they would have to put it back together, and "user interference" is not something covered by the warranty.
  7. Low/high odometer readings

    Their presumed cost to value ratio doesn't quite add up. They are fantastic vehicles (I've gotten a chance to ride in an X - it's impressive to say the least), but they are outside of the price range of most consumers. They are pushing technological advancements though. Elon Musk has his hands in a lot of different pots. Public transportation with the hyperloop and the means to deploy it (The Boring Company), solar power generation (their purchase of Solar City and the solar shingles that Tesla is starting to produce), energy storage (PowerWall), satellite broadband internet (Starlink project at SpaceX), and fully reusable rocket boosters (Falcon 9, expected to be replaced with a fully reusable rocket in the Big Falcon Rocket). It's almost like he's planning for humans to leave this planet and still be able to function... http://www.planetary.org/blogs/jason-davis/2017/20170929-spacex-updated-colonization-plans.html
  8. Losing coolant, no visible leaks

    Don't use universal coolant for one. Mixing coolant types will cause blockages in the radiator or engine at best, heavy corrosion at worst. Get the coolant flushed correctly as soon as possible. Check the consistency of the engine oil. Yellowish to black is fine, chocolate milk like is a failed head gasket. You also want to check hoses, especially any that are above hot components (like the exhaust manifold). If it's leaking from there, it will drip onto the heat shield and evaporate before you can see the leak. One last place to check off hand would be the coolant overflow bottle - make sure it isn't cracked.
  9. Service fill (pan drop, drain, new filter) is supposed to be 5.5 quarts of ATF+4. A complete overhaul (100% drain) is 9 quarts. There are plenty of videos out there for how to check the fluid level in a Chrysler 62te transmission, especially since this transmission is in the Grand Caravan (2008 and on), Town and Country (2008 until end of model), Journey, Nitro, and a bunch of other vehicles. Your tool list should include sand paper (to rough up the end of the next piece of equipment to give the oil something to grip), a wire coat hanger, a knife (to mark the high and low points on your makeshift dipstick), pliers, a tape measure, duct tape, and a scan tool (to check transmission temperature).
  10. 2013 RPM acceleration issue

    P0562 is a low battery voltage error code, and it can happen from doing nothing more than attempting to jump start another vehicle. It is triggered when there is a 10V measurement from the battery for 60 seconds while the engine is running. All of the other error codes you're encountering are throttle pedal/body position/voltage warnings. For a 2013 - is that the original battery? If so, forget testing it, and ignore any test results with it. Just replace it. A 5 year old battery is on borrowed time as it is. As for the other three issues, it could be the throttle, it could be the throttle pedal. It could be an underlying voltage problem causing everything. Start with the battery and work your way towards the throttle body. If it is a failed throttle body, the replacement procedure is not that bad for either 2.4L or 3.6L. Procedure is disconnect battery, remove the intake resonator, remove the throttle body electrical connector, remove throttle body, clean mating surface, reinstall (this is not an exhaustive list of steps, nor is it intended to be). The 2.4L does have a computerized re-learn procedure, so you might want to look into whether or not you can do it without a scan tool (I don't know, and usually the online manual I use tells you if there is an alternative). The 3.6L does not mention any specific re-learn procedure.
  11. My new toy

    I hope it doesn't end up being a 2-row vehicle. The biggest selling point for me of the Journey was that it was a 3-row vehicle, but wasn't a minivan (I already have one, and don't need a second thank you very much). It also isn't the enormous cost of a Durango. FCA needs a modern 3 row budget-friendly platform since they didn't update the Grand Caravan when the Pacifica rolled out. The Journey is a perfect balance for any family like mine (bunch of kids, already have a minivan, just need something for Dad to drive around every day, but still handle family hauling in a pinch). A 2 row vehicle can't do that for me (4 kids now!)
  12. TPMS module Faulty? Or bad sensor?

    There is only module for all 4 wheels. It's a single electrical connector and two nuts that attach to the studs inside the wheel well. You'll need to raise and support the rear end of the vehicle so you can remove the wheel to gain enough access. Including the re-learn procedure, this shouldn't be more than a 1 hour job.
  13. TPMS module Faulty? Or bad sensor?

    For the $100 diagnostic fee, you could fix it yourself. The module is located in the left rear wheel well behind the splash guard, held onto the body by two nuts. The re-learn procedure for a new module is to let the vehicle sit for 20 minutes, then drive it for at least 20 minutes above 15 mph. You've already done the basic troubleshooting (rotating tires and watching to see if the failure point moves). It's not the wheel sensors or the problem would have travelled with the bad component. I think this is the right part number: 56029542AD (Module - Tire Pressure Monitoring). It's less than the diagnostic fee to determine if it is the failed component (multiple sites listing for around $95). Check with a dealer for the correct part number before putting money down for it.
  14. Certified ?

    The question is whether or not it is "factory certified" or if it is "dealer certified." As an industry practice, a factory certified (Certified Pre-Owned) used vehicle will be in "as close to new as possible" condition - little wear, few if any barely noticeable cosmetic issues, no history of accidents, well maintained (with records), etc. Basically, you can tell with certainty that the vehicle is in the best possible condition that it can be. Then there's dealer certified - which isn't worth the window paint that was used to write it on the windshield. It's all still a gamble. If you aren't familiar with working under the hood and how to check for obvious signs of failure on suspension and drive components, have a trusted mechanic look at it before you spend any real money. Depending on the state, you may also have a 3 day return window for a full refund.
  15. Converting Manual Drivers Seat to Power seat

    Nothing a little soldering or wire splicing can't fix (assuming the same number of cables, and no safety devices exist inside the connector). Just remember, if you set your car on fire, it's not my fault.
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