Journey Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


bfurth last won the day on June 7

bfurth had the most liked content!

About bfurth

  • Rank
    New Journey Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Northeast
  • Location
  • Journey's Year
  • Current Vehicle
    2015 Dodge Journey SE

Recent Profile Visitors

447 profile views
  1. I concur with the electrical connectivity being the source of your issue. If you know how to work with electrical wiring, go for it. I can't find any direct information regarding the wiring harness involved. If you choose to tackle it yourself, you'll have to pay close attention to what you're doing. Use sensible precautions when working with electrical wiring (don't touch live wires, disconnect the battery, etc.) If you aren't sure how to work with electrical wiring in a safe manner, pay the shop. No sense in doing more damage on your own dime when the shop assumes liability if they screw up.
  2. When you use the floor jack, the correct lift point on the Journey for the front end is NOT the pinch weld. Use the scissor jack for that only in a road-side emergency (unless you like bending pinch welds...) The proper spot is about 4-6 inches inside the pinch weld. I haven't been under it enough to remember what's bolted there (it might be the cross member mounting point, main point being it's structurally sound) - you'll know it when you see it. It's a tight angle to get it, but you can get a floor jack handle to come up between the wheel and fender so you can get a full stroke on the jack. I then typically put the stands just on the inside of the pinch weld - there's a rubberized coating where the emergency jack attaches so it keeps from damaging paint and getting down to bare metal. I also put a hocky puck on the jack saddle to keep from any metal-on-metal contact. Found this image from this video (not mine) - that is what I use as my jack point for the front. Best I can tell from the manual I've got access to, this is the correct front lift point.
  3. And this is why I won't use ramps. That, and the fact that I do a tire rotation on every oil change (#3 coming up next month for my 2015). Fortunately, nothing substantial had any damage for you.
  4. It would be too steep of an angle to get the spare out, unless you put a hinge on the third row to lift the whole thing up (or, you're talking about a hinge on the rear bumper cover). If the former: that gets into a potential safety question - do you make third row passengers get out of the vehicle (on the side of a highway) while changing the wheel? For safety purposes, you have to assume that the vehicle is fully occupied with it's intended passengers (ie, a family with small children sitting in the third row). They're safer in the vehicle than out of it when changing a wheel after an unexpected flat. All other questions with regards to where to keep the spare wheel follow from that assumption. If you go with the latter solution (sliding it out through a hinged door in the bumper cover), you have to re-design the rear bumper. That may or may not work, but you still need a retention mechanism for the tire such that it won't slide out of the storage compartment. You also need to seal said compartment from water and pest intrusion (a minor issue). At that point, the winch is probably less expensive. If protecting the tire is your chief concern, you could always wrap it in plastic and then plasti-dip the sealed package. Inflate to 60 PSI at [hottest typical average temperature in your region] and carry a portable inflator with you (plenty of places to store it in the Journey).
  5. I changed the fuel pump on my old 2003 Malibu about 3 years ago. The fuel in the tank was as clear as what's in my gas can for my lawn mower. And I just purchased that can this year and have only filled it once. Unless you've had a problem with the gas cap, or some other fuel system fault code, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
  6. Also, bramfrank, to answer your question directly: there is no in-vehicle storage option for the spare wheel because of the three-row version of the Journey. You can't stamp the undercarriage two different ways for the same chassis, and the third row takes up the space that would have been used for a storage bin inside the cabin. So, three-row vehicle in a sedan footprint = under body storage of the spare wheel, whether or not you have the third row.
  7. I keep a tarp in the rear storage bin. You never know when you need to hide a body... I mean, change a flat and haul a dirty wet wheel around!
  8. It's a size issue. The 2 row Journey has a rear cargo deck that's about 3 feet by 3 - 3 1/2 feet. The 3 row Journey "loses" that full cargo area (when the seats are in use) and has a small storage bin (about 8 inches long, maybe 6 inches deep, runs the width of the tailgate opening). A panel placed on top of that could become a hazard (it would be able to fly over the 2nd and front row seats in a collision), much less stay put over speed bumps. It's the same kind of latch that's used on the 2nd row bins and on the Grand Caravan/T&C middle row storage area.
  9. Does the latch move without resistance? If so, it's a broken latch. Take it to a dealer and let them fix it. Unless you drive 1,000+ miles a week, it's under warranty.
  10. The alignment is controlled by: shocks/struts inner/outer tie rods control arms Any time any of those are touched for repairs, an alignment check should be performed and adjusted as needed. Alignment can be thrown off by potholes or any other substantial obstruction that jars the vehicle. A 4,000+ pound vehicle moving at 40+ mph is a LOT of kinetic energy. Suddenly and dramatically changing the position of a wheel puts a tremendous amount of force into those components.
  11. Every vehicle I've owned (Ford, Chevy, Chrysler) has gotten to at least 130,000 miles before repairs got to a point where it wasn't cost effective to keep flushing money. And the only one that went that early was a vehicle with a known defect that had been subject to a class action lawsuit over the materials involved (GM 3.1L engine, Dex-Cool, and a poor material choice for the lower intake manifold gasket), and at that, I wasn't nearly as careful about researching vehicles before buying one, nor was I adept at any kind of repair work. If the engine is designed well (the "worst" engine ever used in a Journey is the 3.5L, which is still a fairly solid engine), the vehicle will last. Equally important is a history of proper maintenance. Any vehicle will last as long as you take care of it. When buying a used vehicle, any information you can get on its previous maintenance and repair history is invaluable. A car with complete maintenance records will also probably be more expensive. As for the price tag - sorry to say it, but good luck finding a crossover or SUV for under $5,000 without a very large number for mileage. I did a search for my zip code, and there is 1 Journey within 500 miles under $5,000 with under 100,000 miles. And you couldn't pay me enough to buy another FCA vehicle prior to 2011 (everything got at least a facelift after the 2010 model year). It's also the 3.5L engine, which means unless you have convincing evidence that the timing belt has been replaced, that's priority number 1 after buying it. As far as reliability of domestic versus other manufacturers: My first car was a former fleet vehicle (95 Taurus) with 120,000 miles on it. I put 20,000 miles on it in 2 years (I only paid $2,000 for the car). My sister got it from me for $200, put a few hundred into it, and drove it for another 2 years. It had about 160,000 on it when it was totaled. My second car was bought brand new (05 Cavalier). It lasted me 4 years (had to get a bigger car) when I sold it to my sister for $5,000. It finally died at 150,000+ miles and about 12 years after manufacture. Not bad for a "cheap" economy box. My third car was bought from a friend who had bought it used (03 Malibu). I had it from 2009 until I bought my Journey in 2015. I bought it with about 60,000 miles on it. I put 70,000 more before the head gasket started to go. So, another 130,000+ on a domestic. With horrendous gasket material design that leads directly to premature engine failure, proper maintenance or not. My wife's van (10 Town and Country) has 120,000+ and is, by all appearances, in good mechanical condition. I'm hoping to get another 4 years out of it, minimum. Just long enough to pay off my Journey. We bought it used around 38,000 miles and have put 80,000+ on it of our own. I've done all of the maintenance on it since we bought it, as well as most of the repairs. It eats brakes and power steering hoses, but those a problems I can live with. My Journey (2015) has under 16,000 miles on it. I drive 8 miles round trip for work - I expect to own this one long enough to teach my kids to drive (oldest is 7, so another 9 years before I can even start that goal). TL/DR - take care of your stuff, it will last longer.
  12. P0128 indicates (in order): failed/failing thermostat, failed engine coolant temperature sensor, PCM update needed, low coolant, radiator fan not turning off, or faulty intake air temperature. Thermostat can be tested "the old fashioned way" - squeeze the coolant hose (between thermostat and radiator) while the engine is cold - you should hear coolant moving and push the radiator cap, and you should see the overflow bottle level change as you do this. Get the engine up to temp (10 minutes of driving should be more than enough) and touch the hose - it should uncomfortably hot, but not hot enough to burn (too quickly). This is, of course, assuming you haven't paid someone to do that part already. 2013 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor should be part 5149077AB. That part is not a piece of the oil filter housing. Removal is a matter of locating the sensor (straight from a repair manual: "The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor on the 3.6L engine is installed into a water jacket at rear of the cylinder head on the left side of the engine. "), remove the cable, and unbolt it from the engine block (deep socket, not sure what size). You'll need to partially drain coolant before you remove it. Depending on your mileage, it might be time to think about a coolant flush anyway. Otherwise, drain a gallon, then re-fill with new coolant (50/50 mix) when you have the sensor re-installed. Installation is pretty straightforward - just put everything back together. 11 N*m (8 ft.lbs.) to install. Use a PTFE thread sealant. Add coolant, purge air, and you should be done.
  13. To answer the question about maintaining the warranty by only using dealer service: In short, probably not. The Magnusson Moss Warranty Act of 1975 prohibits a car manufacturer (and others, but this part is pertinent here) from imposing service with exact parts and from a specific location (read: at the dealer, using on OEM parts) UNLESS they pay for it. So, if that dealer is actually telling people this, they are either violating federal law, or they are offering to perform all powertrain maintenance (oil and filter changes, transmission fluid drain/fill, spark plug changes for 2.4L, engine air filter, etc.) for no cost for the duration of the powertrain warranty. That act specifically allows you to perform your own maintenance with appropriate parts of your choosing (but they better be compatible - no jury rigging). Keep your receipts, and know that the dealer is lying to you.
  14. This will hold true for just about any FWD vehicle: Why would you ever want to tow with the drive wheels on the ground (unless you're pulling it out of a ditch)? Only bad things can happen, even if you do everything right. Get the drive wheels off the ground - if they aren't moving under their own power, they shouldn't be moving. For the Journey specifically, it's permissible under certain circumstances (not, far, and definitely not fast). Read the owner's manual. And get your Journey on a flatbed if you need it towed - it's inherently less dangerous to the vehicle.
  15. A fuel pump is not "major." No, the car won't go without one, but changing one out is not terribly difficult. If you start with a nearly empty fuel tank, it's about a 2-3 hour job in a driveway.