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bfurth

Journey Member
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bfurth last won the day on March 23

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About bfurth

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  • Region
    U.S. Northeast
  • Journey's Year
    2015

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  1. New Starter Motor

    Wow, your starter had to be replaced? I hope that your shop capped the power cables while the starter was disconnected. That's how you lose electrons!
  2. The OEM spark plugs are copper and have a 30,000 mile life. After that, the electrode has worn to a point that fuel economy starts to trail off and you risk incomplete combustion in the chamber (which will then start dumping unburnt fuel into your exhaust, and that will wreak havoc on your catalytic converter). Don't replace them with anything but copper, and replace them when the engine is cold (do it in the morning on a weekend after it sits overnight) due to the metal header (hot metal is more malleable). The plugs are about $2-$3 each. Don't overtorque them (book calls for I think 25 ft-lbs, give or take), and make sure the rubber insert of your spark plug socket comes back out after you're done (that was a fun story... change plugs on a friend's car, then she had intermittent misfires for a year and a half). The transmission fluid should have been changed at 60,000 miles for your use (effectively, it was a "fleet or taxi" vehicle), and then AGAIN at 120,000. The 6-speed (62te) gearbox does not have a transmission fluid dip stick. The 4 speed does. As far as the service tech and the internet go - I'd put a LOT more faith in the owner's manual for the service schedule. There's a lot of good information out there, but there is also 10x more bad information as well. One last point about transmission fluid changes - the first time I had it done on my van (2010 Chrysler T&T, same 6-speed as the Journey), it came out to about $135. The cost of materials (I think it was 6-8 quarts of ATF+4, filter, and the bottle of RTV for the new gasket) was about $100 of that. It's a lot of work for a low profit margin job. And it's in the dealerships best interest for your vehicle to have a failing transmission after your powertrain warranty has expired (because then you either have to pay for a new gearbox, or - even better for them - buy a new vehicle). As for FCA, yes, the same does apply to them, but to a lesser extent. Fleet use vehicles have a 60k mile service interval for the transmission, which is still inside the powertrain warranty (or at least was when your vehicle was built). Recommending that change at 60k is suggesting it is necessary to maintain proper function of the transmission for the life of the vehicle. But what do the engineers who designed these things know? Surely not as much as the dealership technicians (who are NOT FCA employees).
  3. https://moparonlineparts.com/docs/82212736.pdf Good luck. I'd recommend using the actual wiring harness. If you can't find one, I'd strongly recommend getting the wire gauge information from someone who does have it. Electricity is not something to play with if you aren't well aware of what you're doing. As for the correct wiring harness, you could always search for one at a junk yard. The factory kit comes with two wiring harnesses - one for the lights, and the other to run from the lights to the BCM.
  4. Arrangement of kids in the back seats.

    Have the 10 year old climb through the rear hatch until the 2 year old is bigger and stable enough to ride in a booster seat. Then move the oldest (probably 12 by then) to the middle row and the middle child to the back. We're about to have #4. Fortunately, the DJ is my daily driver, not my wife's. She's got the van. For the DJ (and only when needed), we're going to have an 8 year old and a not-quite 6 year old in booster seats in the 3rd row, a rear facing seat for the not quite 3 year old in the second row, and the infant carrier without base on the 40 split side of the 2nd row. Everyone will be able to get in easily enough. By the time the formula changes, the 2nd youngest could ride in a booster in a pinch (which is the only need for the DJ to be the people hauler anyway).
  5. Oil Extractor?

    If you want to talk Journeys, stay here. If you want to talk about Mopar minivans, go here: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/forum.php. Not sure if this violates any terms of service of this site to plug other forums, but they're not exactly competing for the same audience, and I happen to be semi-active on both.
  6. Ever buy a rebuilt TIPM?

    Put the vehicle on stands, remove the driver front tire, remove the wheel well cover, and disconnect the battery directly.
  7. Oil Extractor?

    I don't have one, nor have I ever used one. It also doesn't matter because every time I change the oil in my DJ (and my T&C), it's time for a tire rotation. That being said: You have to get under the DJ to change the filter (unless you have a 3.6L). Either way, there is enough ground clearance with the DJ that I could change the oil without lifting the front end if I had to. I'm 5'10", 220, and I can get far enough under the engine bay to change it from the ground. Also, the change interval on the DJ is annual/10,000 miles/when the light says to change it (not likely before 5,000 miles). It's almost always going to be time for a tire rotation when you need to change the oil. If you don't care about uneven wear on the tires, get ramps. That's going to be more effective than a pump. My typical oil change on my 2015 DJ (2.4L) runs about $40 or less. That's using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20 with a Purolator Boss filter. I wouldn't bother changing the factory oil at 3,000 miles, but that's me. There is nothing in the owner's manual (unless it's a new requirement for newer model years, which I doubt) about an early change for the factory fill. Ramps will set you back $40 - that gets you a set of 12,000 pound rated ramps. For the DJ, you could use just about anything to raise the front end up to an incline. If you want to maintain a Pacifica (I assume the new minivan, not the old crossover), you would need to raise the front end to gain access to the drain bolt. Throw in an oil drain container (pan + store 16 quarts of used oil) for $15. If you want to perform tire rotations, get a 3-ton jack and stands (about $140 combined) and a torque wrench (not more than $80). The price of 4 oil changes with tool purchase would be $380. Compared to paying about the same for the first 4 anywhere else. After that? The tools are free. And, as stated previously, you don't have to rotate tires if you don't care about uneven wear (I don't recommend that). On a side note - Ultra Platinum is typically hit or miss when it comes to price. If Amazon and WalMart both have it in stock, it's $25 for a 5 quart jug. If only one of them has it in stock, it's $40 or more. As of 1:15 on 3/19/18, they both have it and it's cheap.
  8. Heartbroken

    Backup camera, for the sake of backup only, usually gets installed on the backup light circuit. That circuit is only ever live when the transmission is in reverse. A dashboard camera, which is presumably intended to be on when the vehicle is on, should be tied to a circuit that is only ever live when the vehicle is in Accessory or Run. Either the 12v port under the center stack or the 12v port inside the console (IF you switch the fuse to the correct position) fits that bill.
  9. Instead of going the nuclear option (which may or may not work, and is likely to cause all sorts of other problems since the entire climate control system routes through the OEM radio), did you try finding the correct Hands Free Module part number from the dealership for your vehicle? If it's a failed Bluetooth module (which they call the Hands Free Module), a "reboot" (which is caused by them disconnecting the battery) may have temporarily fixed it ("when in doubt, reboot"). If so, Try replacing it first (it's located behind the steering column). If that doesn't fix it, then replace the OEM radio with another OEM radio. Those are pretty much the only components (other than the steering wheel button panel - btw, have you tried using the phone directly through the radio instead of just the steering wheel buttons?) involved in the hands free setup. The final component failure assumption I'm making here (because you really didn't give a lot of information other than "it doesn't work") is a dead microphone, which would require replacement of the rear view mirror. Also, and I truly hope you tried this before spending tons of money, did you delete the device pairing from both the radio AND the phone, then pair the phone to the radio again? One last point - given the $600 price tag, my guess is they suspect a failed Hands Free Module (the part retails for ~$300, plus the hour and a half of labor it would likely take to get to it, replace it, and put the dashboard back together. $600 doesn't get you a new radio head unit. For reference sake, the part will look similar to this (this may or may not be the right part number for your particular vehicle - check with a dealer before you buy anything): https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/Dodge_2013_JourneyFWD--36L-V6-24V-VVT--6-Speed-Automatic-62TESXT/MODULE-Telematics/10583090/68222278AA.html
  10. Heartbroken

    Tie the dash cam into the 12v circuit under the center stack - it's permanently tied to the ignition. End of problem.
  11. Check with your local library system. You might be surprised with what you can find. The Carrol County library in Maryland has a subscription to Auto Repair Reference Center (arrc.ebscohost.com) with a vast store of information on most makes/models/years, which effectively includes more or less complete factory service manuals. The most recent DJ it has listed is the 2014, but there haven't been any groundbreaking changes since then. While physically in some branches, they have access to ALLDATA Repair (the same thing you're talking about with an annual subscription, but paid for through your tax dollars and available for everyone).
  12. Lack of proper temperature from vents sounds like a blend door/actuator failure. You should be able to hear the doors changing position if you switch between floor/mix/dashboard/defogger. Put temperature control in manual (assuming you have automatic climate control), set the fan to the lowest speed, turn the radio off, and kick everyone else out of the vehicle (basically, make it as quiet inside as possible). Then switch the vents between the different output options and listen for the door actuator. If it's not coming out of the vents you are telling it to, that's more information for the dealership. Also, when doing this, make sure that the dashboard vents are fully open - you want to eliminate as many variables as possible. Dealerships can only fix what you can explicitly prove is malfunctioning. If you can't prove it's broken, it's not broken. Going in with that mindset helps immensely. Edit: Reading your initial problem report again sounds like a potential temperature sensor problem than a blend door issue (ignore everything I wrote earlier). Have they bothered checking the actual air temp inside the cabin and comparing that to what the sensors are reading?
  13. Check Engine Light

    It's also an "emissions ready" check. If you leave it in "run" without starting the engine, the light will illuminate, and then either stay solid if the vehicle is ready for an emissions test (no pending trouble codes) or flash 10 times if it's not ready (existing trouble code, or not enough data since the last time all codes were cleared/battery was disconnected). Now, does the light turn on once the engine is running if you start from "ACC," or does it immediately turn off once the engine is running? Also, can you get the engine to start without pressing the brake pedal? If so, that's a separate issue with your vehicle that needs to be addressed. It should only be possible to start the engine with the brake pedal depressed.
  14. Heartbroken

    That's what lemon laws are for. If you make a few hundred thousand of something, a few of them are bound to be wrong somewhere. Warranty and legal protections exist for that reason alone.
  15. Tick, tick, tick...

    Vehicles up through 2015 have the 5 year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty. 2016 and later was shortened to 5 year/60,000 mile. $130 for 3,000 mile change intervals? The 2014 has a 10,000 mile/1 year/whenever the warning message appears change interval. 3 months/3,000 miles is brutal overkill for these engines. Any 5w-20 oil that meets Chrysler MS-6395 is fine to run in these vehicles. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in mine. The oil change reminder clicks off like clock work in the last week of July.
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